chazfenn

FWIW I used an existing linear I had on a digital Fuji & it de-saturated the image! I'm hoping the new (circular) will not do that. Not sure how but it was a fall foliage shot & the color was decidedly weaker than the same shot without! I have no idea why, but it was hard to see the polarizers effect with it not being a mirrored SLR. http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h29/moosp/photography/DSCF0515_zpsuz6zsb5n.jpg http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h29/moosp/photography/DSCF0516_zpstorofz30.jpg

I'd test with a narrow bracket the first time out. With B&W film a med yellow isn't too drastic but the effect will be changed slightly by exposure (under adds effect & over lessens it). if you can go -1/4, -1/2, -3/4 & pick th one you like as your "personal" setting.

I think you're missing the point. Yes there is a change because of polarization, but there's a much bigger change when you accidentally get cross polarization from internal features of the camera. (Like blacking out the meter if it also uses a beam splitter or polarizer as well. THIS is what you're looking for, not the routine 1.5~2 stops of normal polarization.

I think the #8 is a yellow-green, I'm guessing the K2 because of the filter factor (1.5) on his filter matches that. The deep yellow is a 2X. Filters by the Wratten Numbers

I found the same thing. I messed with .RAW, but frankly didn't find the return worth the investment. The best combo I came up with was shoot .RAW, convert to 16-bit .TIF, modify .TIF if needed & finally convert to .JPG for the finished product.

Its in the "welcome splash screen". I uploaded the required 5 images but no one has looked or anything yet so I don't know if I'm approved or not!

Thanks. I've heard of the exposure & auto-focus problems, in fact that was a test for the usability of a linear back then, you rotated it while watching the exposure, if it changed it wasn't compatible. I just couldn't figure out how (or if) it could actually "Damage electronics".

I'm familiar with the circular Vs. Linear polarizers & the need for circular ones in many digital cameras but I recently discovered this little snippet about them: "Do not purchase a linear polarizer to use with a DSLR. These are used for manual focus film cameras and, while they can polarize light more dramatically than a circular polarizer, they can damage your camera's electronics." I understand linear won't work in any system using an internal polarizer, but has anyone heard of electronic damage? Can anyone explain this?

I'm not sure how Hassie grades the filters, but the standard "Wratten" description is a multi-strength set. (2a~13) I'm guessing the 1,5 (Y) is the K2. Wratten number - Wikipedia

What strobe is it for?

"Press Here, Dummy" seems to apply to me! Hence the Bridge camera!:confused:

OK got it, thanks. Intellectual, oh wow, I'm more of a mechanic.

Not that its anything unusual for me. New guy, retired after 50 years in the business, started in the U.K. migrated to Europe, wandered about & finally almost settled in MD, USA. Mostly industrial/commercial work, followed by ring sports for a publishing company. Used everything from 16mm up through 8X10". Did lots of studio work with both continuous & strobe. I'm supposed to post 5 images, but I can't find the FAQ to tell me where to post them. A search turns up nothing & the guidelines just say make 'em mine & keep em small. Can some kind soul tell me where they should go? Is there a specific album or something, or do I just post scattered about in the forums they most work in? Should I host on line & link or do they need to reside on here directly? TIA.