Vincent Peri
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Posts posted by Vincent Peri
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Thanks for all the comments. I'll be using a medium yellow filter once I start shooting my T-Max film.
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I read somewhere (maybe here) that T-Max 100 and 400 film don't need a medium yellow filter in order to get a proper contrasty sky. Has anyone noticed this, or is a yellow filter required for the sky to not be washed out.
Thanks for any info.
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[ATTACH=full]1376197[/ATTACH]
Hmm... looks like my
cousin...
http://bayouline.com/o2.gif
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Can someone recommend a top-quality pro lab that I can send my C41 film to for processing and scans? Not happy with the one I've been using.
Thanks.
I've always sent my film to Dwayne's Photo Lab, and have been pleased with the results. I don't get my negs scanned, however.
Dwayne’s Photo – A trusted name in photo processing for over 60 years.
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I think skylight filters are UV filters with an orange/magenta tint...
Hmm... today ain't my day...
http://bayouline.com/o2.gif
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...In other words the frequency that has been shown to deactivate fungus is blocked by UV filters.
Hmm... just had to buy 11
L1Bc Nikon skylight filters...
http://bayouline.com/o2.gif
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Perhaps the worst accessory one can add to their camera is a UV filter because any UV filter will protect fungus spores from deadly rays.
Hmm... now you tell me...
http://bayouline.com/o2.gif
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Plenty of swamp cypress trees and birds out there. Just watch out for crocs....
There are only alligators in Louisiana. Crocodiles live in Florida.
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Yes, we are going on an Atchafalaya Basin tour in southern Louisiana next month.
Hmm... be sure to wear your
"Alligator-Be-Gone" repellant
down there...
http://bayouline.com/o2.gif
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...So unless one has a physical disability making use of one's right thumb painful or impossible; what's the point of a motor drive?
I use a motor drive on "single" rather than "continuous" to advance to the next frame without having to jiggle the camera around using the film advance lever. The little bit more stability comes in handy when I'm out shooting architectural subjects hand-held in New Orleans' French Quarter. God, I HATE tripods LOL.
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Thanks for all the interesting replies. Much appreciated.
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I've never heard of the term before. I was looking at a 1970's film camera that listed "prism separation" as a defect. I googled the term, but pretty much came up blank. The only "separation" I could find was balsam separation, but I thought that was only in lenses.
Thanks for any help.
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I would design the Nikon F3 to have the FE2's exposure display on the left side of the finder instead of that LCD.
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If you are US located, try this place. They have all sorts of odd ball parts. HOME - Central Camera Co.
Hmm... seems all you can
buy are Central Camera
tee shirts...
http://bayouline.com/o2.gif
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[ATTACH=full]1374871[/ATTACH]
Hmm... the Smurf accordion
player! The most feared
piece on the chessboard...
http://bayouline.com/o2.gif
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Suspect you wouldn't but OCD types scrub the bejeezus out of lenses regularly--coincident with hand-washing fetish issues? "Cleaning marks" disclaimers on eBay seem to confirm the disorder.
I think you could be right.
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Exhibit A in the solution to the mystery "The Riddle of the Lens Scratches."
In all my 47 years since I bought my first SLR, I have never scratched a lens or protective filter using lens cleaning paper.
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I don't have an FM3a, but the only thing inside the lens mount opening on all of my Nikon AI/AIS bodies except the FA is the lever that activates the aperture. The FA has a small button opposite the lens actuating lever that fits into the scalloped notch on AIS lenses.
With my limited knowledge of mechanical things, I'm at a loss to explain your problem...
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If you remove the lens, can you advance the lever then?
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I have 3 Nikon MD-12 motor drives for sale. All are in excellent condition, with no corrosion in the battery compartments.
Asking $25 each.
I can sell/ship ONLY to US addresses. Please add $12 for priority mail shipping.
I accept postal money orders (preferred), or personal checks if you're a frequent poster here (100 or more posts).
Thanks for looking
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I have 2 Nikon MD-4 motor drives for sale. Both in excellent condition, and no corrosion in battery compartments.
Asking $35 ea.
I can sell/ship ONLY to US addresses. Please add $12 for priority mail shipping.
I accept postal money orders (preferred), or personal checks if you're a frequent poster here (100 or more posts).
Thanks for looking.
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I have the following NIkon Focusing screens for sale:
2 ea - red dot J screens. Asking $20
2 ea - red dot K screens. Asking $20
1 ea - red dot E screen. Asking $20
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2 ea - K screens. Asking $15.
1 ea - G1 screen. Asking $15
1 ea - G2 screen. Asking $15.
1 ea - H2 screen. Asking $15
1 ea - H3 screen. Asking $15.
I can sell/ship ONLY to US addresses.
Please add $5 for first class mail (any # of screens) or $8 for priority mail (any # of screens). Postal money orders are preferred, but I will accept a personal check if you are a frequent poster here on photo.net
Thanks for looking
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Putting this thread in a photographic vein, I just may get a couple of my six undeveloped rolls of B&W film scanned so I can actually post some of my photos here. Mainly, I like to shoot in New Orleans' French Quarter, where some of the action in A Confederacy of Dunces takes place. I'm going to reread the book and maybe take some photos of the Quarter locations mentioned in the book. Off the top of my head, I can't recall where the Quarter action happens.
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I hope I don't have to commit suicide like John Kennedy Toole did, the writer of "A Confederacy of Dunces," which was published posthumously through the efforts of his mother
The Book is set in New Orleans in the 1960s, and it's the most hilarious , REALISTIC portrayal of the city and its "characters" ever written. It even won a Pulitzer Prize.
FS: Assorted Nikon F3HP Focusing Screens. (Some Red Dot.) US Only.
in Member Classified Ads
Posted
Lower prices...
All $20 screens now $15.
All $15 screens now $10.