Vincent Peri

I have 4 Nikon FE2 bodies (chrome) for sale. Three are in Excellent condition, while 1 is in excellent minus condition = some scratches near eyepiece, light "dent" on end by film rewind lever and slight missing paint on camera back.

All 4 cameras have small hot shoe bubble levels and generic soft shutter release buttons. All 4 cameras have Nikon AN6 wide straps (3 yellow and 1 burgundy) in excellent condition.

Asking $175 for each excellent condition camera.

Asking $160 for the excellent minus camera.

Please add $12 for priority mail shipping for 1 camera, or free postage for 2 or more.

Sorry, but I can sell/ship ONLY to US addresses.

I accept postal money orders, and if you are a frequent photo.net poster, I'll accept a personal check.

Questions? Just PM me.

Thanks for looking.

This is my breast mug!

[ATTACH=full]1385743[/ATTACH]

Hmm... I am so embarrassed...

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...

I’d go own but this post will probably be deleted

Why? There were a lot of anti-Trump posts here, and I don't recall those being deleted. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I am saying that a prime lens can be either a fixed or variable focus (zoom) lens, yes.

From "Prime Lens" on Wikipedia. See: Prime lens - Wikipedia

"In film and photography, a prime lens is a fixed focal length photographic lens (as opposed to a zoom lens), typically with a maximum aperture from f2.8 to f1.2."

Vincent The Great!

Hmm... depends on which

Vincent you're talking about...

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Ok Vincent, I'm going to give you the cold hard truth. In my experience, there is NO way to securely reattach the camera "leather" once it starts to peel off. The only solution I've found is to get a replacement cover from manufacturer, hopefully with the sticky stuff already on the back.

I'm having slight trouble with a Nikon FA. Nikon doesn't make those replacement covers any more. I'll just stick to using contact adhesive.

The Weldwood works best if a thin coat is applied to both the body and the leather face. Allow about 5 minutes to lapse and then mate the two surfaces. A few of my FSU collection pieces are doing very good after +5 years of putting the various edges down. Aloha, Bill

Thanks for the testimonial, Bill. Looks like I'll be using Weldwood on my camera.

Hmm... 10 to 1 Vincent glues

himself to the camera...

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I have a camera body that has a bit of leather peeling loose. What type/brand of glue should I use to hold the leather down?

Thanks for any recommendations.

That resister is a wafer-thin piece of glass. The tech who fixed mine both times said it was a primary weakness of the cameras' design.

The F3 sold for 20 years, so I figure Nikon didn't see too much of a problem. Remember, this was back when Nikon cared about its products LOL. Just my opinion.

What sensor/camera did you start with?

I'm not sure if you're asking Rodeo Joe or me.

I have Nikon AI/AIS capable film cameras. I was thinking about buying a Nikkor 300 f/4.5 ED-IF lens, but decided against it. I have a Nikon TC0301 teleconverter that I can use on my Nikkor 200 f/4 macro lens.

Hmm... BIF means Banana

In Flight... Hey, toss me a

banana, will ya...?

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Has anyone used a Nikon TC-201 and/or Nikon TC-301 teleconverters on a Nikkor 300 f/4.5 ED-IF AIS lens?

If so, how do the teleconverter affect the photos?

Bjorn Rorslett says don't bother with the TC-301, while Ken Rockwell says using the TC-201 works okay and is a whole lot cheaper than a Nikon 600mm lens.

Thanks for any information!

I got the impression that the Nikon (really Cosina) FM10 was still being made. Then I came across a link to B&H Photo that said the Nikon F6 was the only film camera being made, but that was probably from a year or so ago. Then I found a Wikipedia article on the FM10 that said it and the F6 were still being manufactured in 2020.

So, what is it? Any film cameras still being made?

Thanks for any info.

I remember the day I bought my first camera, a Honeywell Pentax ESII w/ 1.4 SMC Takumar, on November 4, 1974, but I can't recall which film I first put in it.

I'm guessing my first film was either Kodak Plus-X, Tri-X or KodaColor II.

Hmm... humans are just

animals that have been

domesticated... sort of...

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I don’t know if Lithium “can’t leak” - (is that a fact?)...

B&H Photo says "leakproof construction."

I found this on the Energizer site:

"Energizer® Ultimate Lithium™ Batteries are GUARANTEED NOT TO LEAK. Due to advanced technology, Ultimate lithium™ batteries will not leak under normal consumer usage. If you believe that you have a leaking Energizer® Ultimate Lithium™ battery, contact 1-800-383-7323 for return instructions."

I've pretty much decided that I'm going to use Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA Batteries in my NIkon MD4 drives. The main thing is the fact that they can't leak. This is important to me because I use my MD4s in spurts. I may use them several times a week for short periods, followed by no use for months at a time.

Any comments? Especially from photo.net members who use the lithium batteries...

Thanks.