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www.wesleyalmond.com

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  1. I was in the process of cleaning my Rokkor lens on my $5 Minolta A

    (rangefinder)

    What I thought was fungus was in fact the two rear elements had

    become completely separated. Since I couldn't recement the lens I

    cleaned off all of the cement residue.

     

    Now the question is How will this effect my pictures?

    I can place the element back into it's correct resting place BUT it's

    no longer cemented Like it should be..

     

    Info info on this guys?

     

    <img scr="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a49/myequation/a.jpg">

  2. I found these two cameras today for a total of $15!! The Aka Rella

    camera works well and the 3.5 Xenar Lens is clean. The minolta looks

    like it lived in a wet basement and the shutter is jammed up. I'm

    looking for any info on these cameras, Repair links etc. And I am

    wondering is The Aka Relle a Leica mount?? Send the info if you have

    it. Thanks <a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img

    src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a49/myequation/a.jpg"

    border="0" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket"></a><a

    href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img

    src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a49/myequation/untitled.jpg"

    border="0" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket"></a>

  3. That's why I like this site, tons of info fast.

    I collect Vintage cameras and I usually purchase them broken or "jammed"

    The one thing I always adjust is the infinity focus with ground glass or sanded plastic.

    Which this is a very easy task unless you have a complicated Rangefinder mechanism like the Moskva 5, that camera was pain to adjust.

     

    The one piece of advise I've seen repeated is a lens shade,

    Can't disagree with that one.

     

    The one problem I've had with home-brew lens shades is knowing the correct height VS focal length.

    Is there a easy formula for this? Most of my MF cameras have a 80-105mm lens

    I would check with the ground glass but the corners are usually darkened already and therefor I can't tell what the shade would be affecting.

     

    So you guys have any info on this one?

  4. As I Christmas gift I received tons of Tmax 100 and 400 film (120

    format)

     

    Now I'm looking at all my vintage cameras and wanting to use them.

     

    I have a few Agfa Sure shot box cameras (1/60 shutter speed) f-11?

    Lubitel Tlr etc..

     

    The main thing I've noticed from these type cameras is the lack of

    contrast.

    I have never been I big fan of soft low contrast negs.

     

    I'm wondering what recipes are out there i.e. Exposure and developing

    techniques.

    The only chemical I have at home are D-76 and Dektol.

     

    What can I do to give these negs a grand punch?

    Red filter and Dektol? Or underexpose and overdevelop? both?

  5. I'm about to develop many rolls of BW film and I want to try

    something new with my D76 processing. Dilution!

     

    To be developed:

     

    3 rolls tmax 400 shot at 200asa,

    2 rolls tri x shot at 400asa (Holga),

    1 roll Iford Pan F 50asa,

    1 roll Tmax 100asa,

     

    I've done some research on this site but I can't seem to find

    the "equation" for time increase in relation to dilution.

     

    What effect will I achieve with 1:2 up to 1:5 dilution? Other than

    the obvious time increase.

  6. Yes, that's right Asheville, NC, a few years ago I met a photographer named micah here in town. Are you friends with Jonah Goldwag? Small chance you're who I'm thinking of but who knows?

    Oh and dan the prices for 3 1/4 film seemed higher than that of regular 4x5. Plus I seem to have a higher variety of films to choose from with 4x5. I'm a very thrifty person and budget everything. I take after my grandparents. Plus I can save the leftover film strips and do something experimental. For instance crudely taping the strips together, loading them in holders and photographing nudes..

  7. Thanks Dan for the lens info. Luckily I have 10 film holders for this camera. I plan on constructing some type of 4x5 film cutter, since sharp objects and darkness can be dangerous. Maybe 3 1/4 x 41/4 matboard that will sandwich the film and whatever hangs off the edge I can easily cut with scissors in the dark.. sound good?

     

    This camera was free so I can't complain though I do wish it was a standard 4x5. I would love to have one of those roll film adapters, since all the photo stores in Asheville have gone digital and do not sell 4x5 film I may cut a 120 roll into strips and load a few holders. So I'll basically have a 6x9 camera to do my first test shots.

     

    I am also lacking developing holders and tanks which I may have to construct those also. This is the largest format I used to date.

    This will be fun. Considering my other Mf cameras are Holgas, Lubitels

    and a Moskava 5 I think this camera will fit in nicely

  8. I recently received a speed graphic press camera. Everything

    functions perfectly shutter [Compur]is dead-on and the lens [Dominar

    Anastigmat]is fungus free. The one tif I have is the film format 3

    1/4 x 4 1/4, which means I 'll have to cut my 4x5 sheet film down a

    little. I have googled info on this camera but I can't find anything

    related to this specific model. I would like to know more about this

    lens too. So any info or links would be very helpful. It looks a lot

    like the model pictured below, same Rangefider, name plate, body

    style etc. <img

    src="http://www.gibbesmuseum.org/images/1974.12.155.JPG">

  9. I've been fascinated with the results people are getting with

    overexposing film ( expose for shadows) and diluting developer while

    extending developing time about %30 to %40. For the past few years I

    haven't moved beyond d-76 and t-max developer. My typical BW films are

    tmax100-400 and Tri-x. Sometimes Ilford Pan f 50

     

    I plan on using this process on my next few tmax and tri-x rolls.

    But which developers would bring best results with this extended

    weakened development? (shadow detail and rich tone highlights)

    I'm bored my past developers. HC-110 sounds interesting along with

    other Home brew mixtures.

    Please post any links or tips.

  10. What can I say? This is the coolest Mod I've seen in a while.

    Ohh and by the way I'm pretty sure this camera doesn't have a bulb option. but something tells me the simple spring shutter design has to be close to the holga and if so you should be able to follow this holga guide and ad time exposures. Check it out. If this doesn't make sence I can guide you through the pics

     

    http://holga.com.hk/bulbset/

     

    I only wish all Mod sites had suck clear pics..

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