luis_modesti

<p>You are Right, I am going this summer. From July 15th thru approx the 24th.<br>

Must not miss hikes if known also very appreciated.</p>

<p>thank you again.</p>

<p>For the hard core photographers with Glacier National Park experience. Going on a week and a half trip to the park looking for best scenery . Could someone list the MUST-NOT miss locations and spots in the park for best . if mentioned when best sunrise/sunset a big plus. I am buying a couple of books and doing lots of google research as well.<br>

Thank you in advance.</p>

<p>Hi Green, I think you are absolutely right. I think I am starting to see something now as I am digesting the images a few days later now. uhhmm ? interesting.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I think I would deliver two sets as well. One low res JPG format optimized for size and for the consumer type of monitor, most likely already converted to sRGB, and another high res set optimized for printing, that is; in TIF format, aRGB or bigger space. There is always going to be a slight difference between the two (most clients won't notice), but If you were able to print one yourself that looks good, (lab or own printer) any complains could be subdue by showing them that you were able to get a good print by using XX lab or by an experienced printer (like yourself if that is the case).<br />hope this helps,</p>

<p>Thank you All. and Thank you Marc; Your posting really sums it up . I am convinced that reaching this level of expression and vision can only come with time and experience and the love for what we do. I have the last one, I will now need the time to get the experience.</p>

<p>For those who asked, by Magical Moment I mean , (as Marc describes: a Cherished Moment), This is probably better word for it. But if a ray of light comes through the window and hits the altar on the kids faces of wonder , I sure hope to be in the right place and the right time and be prepared to capture that moment.</p>

I am not actually looking for picture judging. I'm not saying the pictures are bad or a disaster. No need to speak technical

either. What I was thinking about is opinions on the learning path to have that ability to create magical moments in a

kid's expressio or anybody for that matter. Some photographers may have this ability as second nature , we others have

to learn it. I know there is no substitute for experience but we have to keep, protect the customers we already have now.

 

I hope what I'm trying to convey makes sense

I had my 1st communion shoot yesterday. It was just portrait session in church environment. Light was good, did my homework, beautiful

church, girl was amazing to work with, she happily did everything I asked her to do. Customer was late to come in though. By an hour.

That kind of threw me off my original plan. By we are all about improvising and problem solving right ?

 

Well , I was a little disappointed with my results. Although I captured what I had in mind , there are not any magical moments. We are

supposed to create the moment if it is not there. Well I did try but with no success.

 

Is this something you have to have in you as second nature ? And if I not, can this be learned. ?

 

 

Thank you for your comments

I always also like to hear other's stories. I'm sure many have gone through this

<p>Joshua,<br>

I've seen some people in other forums develop other photographer's film for a nominal fee. Labs charge much more , plus shipping/etc. If you are interesting, I can find out the link. These people do batch runs every so often based on number of films received. I kind of find myself in similar situation. I don't shoot enough film to use up all my chemicals efficiently and end up wasting a lot of C-41, E-6 and also B&W chemicals. I wouldn't mind helping out depending on your requirements and type of film, it would help me too. I only develop 35mm though. So if this sounds like something it could work for you. Send me a private message to <a href="mailto:lhalcong@yahoo.com">lhalcong@yahoo.com</a></p>

 

For a 1st a Communion event , family wants to cover the event of their daughter from church to family gathering at home plus family

portraits, etc.

what are the price ranges in the market for an event this nature. Event is in Florida. I'm trying to build several options for the customer

where they would have a number of prints included in the packages, for them to choose what works for them. How are these events

priced. ? What are the price ranges to stay competitive. ?

<p>These are pictures of father with baby sitting on a chair on the balcony under the shade of trees. Ambient daylight was low so I bounced a speedlight off of a white umbrella and metered at F/5.6 , then by mistake I dialed f/8 . I dont expect the contrast to be either high or low but just about normal considering the conditions. Since I did not meter by zones, but for the entire flash exposure I dont know when my low zones will fall. It may not even be necessary to push but I want to consider my options just in case. I will print in enlarger for the final prints to the customer but I will also scan for social sites.</p>

<p>Let say I made a mistake and underexposed the film by one stop. I will be processing using Tmax developer which is supposed to help the shadow detail. However, to further help I am thinking of pushing by developing say 30% more time, but reduce agitation as to not push the highlights too far up. Will this help the mid-tones or low zones that may have been underexposed ?. At least a bit . and save the highlights from not going too high. Does this make sense ?<br>

thanks,</p>

Thank you for your good advice. I did end up going with shutter priority as I didn't want to risk movement blur which I think

is worse in this case. For large groups for the most part 50mm or less focal length had plenty of Depth of Field. However I

did run into a few shots where I in fact as you stated, DoF was an issue. I see it's all a balancing act.

 

I did run into something though that I was not fully aware of , when taking the snapshots of people talking , particularly

during the CEO speech , faces frozen while speaking look too awkward. I think I lost more shots to this detail than any

other technical detail.....

<p>Definetely went out to test today. Here is what I decided to do. I am using two speedlights, one on camera and one off camera , both bouncing off the ceiling tiles. One master the other one slave. Both will be gel-'ed' with a light green gel to match the flourescent and setting my white balance to custom balance after shooting a gray card on same environment. I will be working on E-TTL and Shutter Priority set to 1/125 , let the camera choose Aperture which is fluctuating around f/4 to f/6.3 depending on where I am. I am letting enough ambient light while I am shooting at ISO 1600 . I am using a Canon 5D III . <br>

Do you see any potential issues here ? </p>

First time covering an event in office environment with fluorescent lights overhead. Typical ceiling tiles. CEO speech and employees

socializing. What mistakes am I going to make ? The purpose of this question is to hear what you have learned in these conditions and

this type of events so I could attempt to avoid.

 

Thanks in advance.

<p>So I am taking from this that we have all concluded that it is better to have one and not need it than to need one and not have it. That leaves us photographers with two choices, either not to take the picture or take the picture and not post it.<br>

Thank you everyone. <br>

PS: it is interesting that the subject of posting here in photo.net came up. I was talking about my own personal website. However, I wasn't even thinking about my portofolio in photo.net That is also a public site. uhmm ? I can probably safely bet that 1000's of pictures posted here do not have a release....</p>

<p>I am sure this is a sticky subject with lots of variant situations. I've done a bit of reading through the forum but I decided to post my case anyway for any insight. I apoligize in advance if this has been recently posted.</p>

<p>I don't own a business myself (not yet) but recently I have done a few jobs on the side where I did get paid. Two different type of jobs. Corporate headshots, and family and also kids. Altough I still remain an amateur photographer for now, they liked my work and this has encourage me to keep on going. I have since then created a small website for my own promotional reasons. In other words, only to show samples of my work where they can see pricing and my information, not other comercial reasons.. I live in the state of Florida.</p>

<p>Do I need model release from every employee that I shot , and from the family, particularly the parents of the kids I have photographed. ? I did not get them when I did take the pictures. Is one release from the company representative enough to allow me to use the employees pictures or do I still need a release from each employee. ? </p>

 

<p>I have to cover a Cocktail and Business Lunch event where the company is relaunching its brand name. Sort of re-inaguration of the company. I am in charge of covering the event itself, the CEO speaking and about 50+ employees. The event will take place inside their building offices. The existing lighting inside the space is typical flourescent neons on white ceiling tiles. (they may not be perfect white). I am wondering what will be more succesful ;<br>

- Bounce flash off the ceiling tiles and adjust the white balance.<br>

- Use a flash on camera with a small diffuser. (may not reach too far).<br>

- or just bump the ISO until shutter is fast enough and adjust white balance. (I am using Canon 5D II).<br>

- Mix light sources; Flash, Flourescent Neons, Window Light (which will not reach everywhere).<br>

any other advise to be successful with lighting this environment. ??</p>

<p>Thanks Frank. I believe and I hope I interpreted correctly but since I don't have an SB900 myself, I haven't really experimented this hands-on. He included pictures where he shows he is able to enter distance to subject and the Flash gives the correct F/Stop or viceversa, that is; enter the F/Stop desired and the flash gives the subject to distance for correct exposure. I am sure the camera is accounting for all the other variables you mention.</p>

<p>Yes, the Guide Number is a reliable but cumbersome and time consuming to calculate every time as changes based on zoom and power selected will vary the GN. Canon has an Online calculator on their website that does this, still cumbersome to get online to do this when needed. I have the 550EX and although it does similar work, it doesnt work in the same way. You are not able to enter these variables in the back of the flash. I was hoping newer models like the 580EX and after may have these features.</p>

<p>I know and I understand even more reliable is to use a light meter but for those who don't own one, the SB900 doing this work is great. I was just curios if a newer Canon flash does this.</p>

<p>I don't own a Nikon speedlight Flash but I understand from reading Brian Peterson's books that in full manual mode on a Nikon SB900 you can enter distance to subect , ISO or F/stop on the back of the unit, (any two of the three) and the flash gives you the calculation of the third one so you can get a proper exposure in the simplest terms.<br>

Is there a Canon Flash from the EX series up to the newest models that can do this ? I own 550EX and they cannot do this directly on the flash. They work in a different way.</p>

<p>thanks.</p>

<p>Here is another better way to add dimension to your pictures. Get the flash off the camera. You have it on the camera hotshoe. This is a big subject so try researching around those words. You will need to do a small investment.</p>

 

<p>When you search for Kodak Chemicals or discontinued products for that matter, you get many of the shady sites that are very probable to be nothing but scams. Stay away from them.</p>

<p>Just for the heck of continuing a conversation and not exactly out of ignorance, since I understand the principles, but why exactly would I want to spend close to a thousand $$ for one more stop of light. Isn't it more monetarily efficient to bump the ISO by one stop ?</p>

<p>remind me why I did spend that money ?</p>

<p>thx</p>

 

<p>So Watts work in the same way as ISO and every thing else. ? interesting. I did not know that.... very expensive way of getting 1 more stop.... :-(</p>

<p> </p>

<p> I just purchased a Bowens Gemini 1000Pro watts, (my first light with this much power). However, when testing against my Bowen Gemini 400, I only get between 1 to 1-1/2 stops more than what I get from the 400Watts light. Is this normal ?, is this what I am supposed to expect ? I was expecting much more than that in stops..... for such price...<br>

My test was performed with the same bowens reflector on both , at same distance of 10ft. (no light modifiers), only the standard reflector. I mettered with Sekonik 758 light meter (dome pointing directly at flash).</p>

<p>thanks for any insight.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Cher,<br>

Being an inexperienced in Weddings photographer myself. I recently got an offer to shoot one. To avoid a mishap like you are describing in such an important date, I am choosing to shoot with a professional photographer instead of shooting it by my myself. In other words, leaving the job to him/her while I learned from. So many different challenges can be thrown at you very quickly, only experience can teach you how to react and react correctly. Having said that, if your intentions are to grow as a photographer and in the business, then you want your customer to be happy. Let them have what makes them happy. Sounds like you have reached a point where you lost the customer and no matter how much you try , they already made a judgement of you. Imagine you bought a merchandise yourself and it came bad. you'd like your money back correct. ? well, that's what I think happened here. If your intentions are to make a quick buck and don't care about a career, that's a differen story.</p>

<p>She could even be sued , right ?</p>