studio460

<p>Tomasz:</p> <p>Yes, I've also had my share of misfires with my PocketWizard TT1/TT5s in the past, but their performance seems to have improved since the last firmware revision (although, I use the PocketWizards primarily in manual mode, specifically to shoot above x-sync for daylight exteriors, and they work great for that). I have, however, switched to all-Elinchrom D-Lite series studio strobes for indoor stuff, mainly for their built-in Skyport receivers (they're also very lightweight, recycle fast, and are affordably priced). I bought two Elinchrom Speed transmitters, and happily found the Elinchrom triggers to be ultra-reliable.</p>

<p>I usually pack different gear depending on the shoot (I shoot non-wedding events and headshots). Mostly, all of my bodies, lenses, and Speedlight gear gets thrown into aluminum Hakuba cases. Last week, I shot a daylight-exterior event and decided to take only a "minimal" lighting/grip package:</p> <p>Thrown in the back of the van:<br /> • x1 39" x 39" Westcott ScrimJim with 1-1/4-stop diffuser.<br /> • x1 C-stand w/40" grip arm.<br /> • x1 additional 40" grip arm.<br /> • x1 Matthews aluminum baby stand w/Rocky Mountain leg. <br /> • x3 15 lb. shot bags.<br /> • x1 Quantum Qflash mounted on Photoflex stand.<br /> • x4 Quantum Turbo batteries.<br /> • x1 full-apple box.<br /> • x1 half-apple box.<br /> • x1 step-stool.</p> <p>Packed in aluminum Hakuba cases:<br /> • x2 Nikon D3s bodies.<br /> • x1 AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm f4.0G VR<br /> • x1 Sigma 35mm f/1.4<br /> • x1 Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS<br /> • x2 Nikon SB-800 Speedlights.<br /> • x2 PocketWizard TT1/TT5s<br /> • x1 Newton flash bracket.<br /> • x1 Nikon SC-17 TTL cable (shortened).<br /> • x1 Nikon SC-29 TTL cable.<br /> • x2 Quantum Nikon cables.</p> <p>Tomorrow, I'm supposed to shoot some exterior street/fashion stuff. This time, I'm only taking the following:</p> <p>• x2 Nikon D3s bodies.<br /> • x1 AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G VR I<br /> • x1 AF-S Nikkor 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR<br /> • x1 AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G<br /> • x1 AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G<br /> • x1 Sigma 35mm f/1.4<br /> • x1 Matthews 39" x 39" Matthboard (fill version).<br /> <br /> <img src="http://studio460.com/images/nikonkit-1.png" alt="" /></p> <p>I also always keep the following in the van:</p> <p>• x1 Westcott 4' x 4' Illuminator, square, one-stop foldable diffuser.<br /> • x1 Westcott 42" x 42" square, silver/white foldable reflector.<br /> • x1 Westcott 30" x 30" square, silver/white foldable reflector.</p>

<p>I recently redesigned my own SmugMug page [<a href="http://ralphoshiro.com/">http://ralphoshiro.com/</a>], and have been wrestling with many of the same issues as you. I'll just point out some personal irks I have with websites in general, so don't take these too personally:</p> <p>• Your splash image is gorgeous! Extra points there!<br /> • You should brand each page. I think direct-contact info (i.e., a phone number) should be everywhere.<br /> • If relevant to your type of business, identify your location.<br /> • I'm not a fan of "about" pages. I think there are cleverer ways to do this.<br /> • Similarly, I'm not a fan of "contact" pages, and, <em>especially,</em> not a fan of contact <em>forms</em>.<br /> • In general, don't make your visitors click too much (personally, I went very minimalist).<br /> • Along that vein, try to reduce the segregation of your work (too much clicking!).<br> • Generally, the lower the amount of required clicks, the lower your bounce rate.<br /> • Overall, yours is an attractive site with even more attractive images. Simplify and brand. Done!</p>

<p>Wow! Nice! Great photos, too! What did you build that in?</p>

<p>Darren, not to burst your bubble, but your two WordPress sites are coming up even slower than mine. Tim, since we're both at HostGator, would you mind posting a link to your site so I could make some casual load-time comparisons? By the way, my customer support experience with HostGator has been very good, and excellent with Network Solutions. Short to no wait times (especially late at night when I work on my sites). Both provide 24/7 phone support.</p>

<p>I said:</p> <blockquote> <p><em>I'm currently with HostGator, which is serving some of the slowest WordPress pages on the net . . . Here's one of my WordPress sites, which has minimal plug-ins, which always seems a bit on the pokey side: <a href="http://lightbasics.com/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://lightbasics.com/</a></em></p> </blockquote> <p>Well, that's odd. I just tried clicking my own link, and my WordPress site is now faster than it's ever been. Perhaps HostGator found they began losing customers in droves after the EIG acquisition, and they've finally realized it's time they cleaned up their act.</p>

<p>Domain Registrars:</p> <p>As far as domains go, I have domains at several registrars, but have most of them at Network Solutions (netsol.com). I'm a long-time NetSol customer, and have been using them since the mid-1990s. I've stayed with them mainly because they have the best billing interface, one that's much easier to see what's expiring, when, and if they're auto-renewing or not. Most other registrars have very tricky interfaces (e.g., HostGator) designed to make it hard to tell when your domain is expiring or whether it's on auto-renew. Note that NetSol will register domains as cheaply as everyone else, but you have to call them on the phone to get that price (don't do it online!). I think the only domain I have registered elsewhere is for my SmugMug account, since their domain partner allows for near-instant propagation.</p>

<p>Tim said:</p> <blockquote> <p><em>As for hosting, I went with Host Gator, but a reliable source recommended Blue Host and maybe that would have been better, who knows for sure . . .</em></p> </blockquote> <p>Note that BlueHost and HostGator were both bought my EIG in 2013. I only noticed this when my server inexplicably moved from Texas to Utah (BlueHost) one night. Many claim that the previously acclaimed HostGator service level has declined since the EIG acquisition. I agree, and believe that EIG is over-selling their server space. I'm currently with HostGator, which is serving some of the slowest WordPress pages on the net. I'm not ready to move to a managed server, but I'm not sure at all where to go next since 99.999% of online hosting reviews are fake, sponsored or affiliate-based.</p> <p>Note that WordPress sites in particular are dynamically generated; i.e., they're not static HTML pages being served by a single server. It takes a competent service provider who isn't over-selling their space to provide snappy WordPress pages. Here's one of my WordPress sites, which has minimal plug-ins, which always seems a bit on the pokey side: <a href="http://lightbasics.com/">http://lightbasics.com/</a></p>

<p>Note that FreewayPro for OS X is definitely of the create/publish (FTP) paradigm. Think of FreewayPro like Adobe InDesign for the web--it's the best WYSIWYG web development app I've tried, with the best type-control I've seen. In contrast, WordPress and SmugMug sites can be developed from anywhere you have access to a web browser.</p> <p>I forgot to mention some of SmugMug's most appealing features:</p> <p>• Unlimited uploads/file storage/traffic included with even the least-expensive plan.<br /> • Export images/create galleries directly from within Aperture or Lightroom.<br /> • Choice of four labs.<br /> • Excellent e-commerce component with user-variable mark-ups.</p> <p>One downside to SmugMug is that you can no longer completely eliminate the "powered by SmugMug" tagline from displaying on your site (older customers were allowed to completely eliminate any SmugMug branding, and were allowed to grandfather-in this feature). The tagline is small, and can be placed at the bottom of the homepage--still, I hate promoting others' brands when I'm only trying to promote my own. Other than that, I think SmugMug offers one of the best all-around solutions for photographers in the marketplace.</p>

<p>I've tried a number of solutions myself. If you're OS X-based, FreewayPro 7 offers a high degree of customization and even automatically outlines bit-mapped typography for vector-based scaling. But of course, all that control comes at the cost of a lot of work. I use different tools for different sites (I have several). But for my content-delivery and portfolio display, I still think SmugMug offers the most benefits with the most customization. SmugMug takes some work to get it the way you want, but it's far less work than re-coding WordPress themes (for all of my WordPress themes I've had to custom-code snippets here and there just to support my desired typeface selections). To summarize my preferred apps:</p> <p>Ultimate typography/layout control for OS X users, but labor-intensive: FreewayPro 7 for OS X.</p> <p>Best all-around for content delivery/presentation: SmugMug.<br /> Here's an example of my SmugMug site: <a href="http://ralphoshiro.com/">http://ralphoshiro.com/</a></p> <p>Ease-of-use/requires custom code to use desired typefaces: WordPress + commercial theme.<br /> Here's an example of one of my WordPress sites: <a href="http://nikonbasics.com/">http://nikonbasics.com/</a></p>

<p>Pete said:</p> <blockquote> <p><em>Just keep in mind that if you want to shoot people indoors or in low light without using flash, the kit lens wont cut it. It's to "slow".</em></p> </blockquote> <p>True. It's just that the 18-55mm is such a bargain when buying it in a kit--it's almost like getting a $250 lens for free. Of course its uber-slow, variable-aperture has very limited use indoors or in other low-light situations. This is why I also keep an AF-Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G with my DX bodies for low-light shooting (the 50mm f/1.8G is a good alternative). An ideal DX "street" lens (though it's actually an FX lens) is the new AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G when used as a fast 30mm-equivalent on a DX body. The only problem is its relatively high price. This would be my first choice as a walk-around/street photography lens for a DX body.</p>

<p>Here's a headshot from the same event, also shot with the same Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS lens (Imagenomic's Portraiture plug-in was applied to clean-up the subject's skin):</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/sigma150-BB-3-700.png" alt="" /><br> Nikon D3s + Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS</p>

<p>That said, my AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G is among my least-used lenses. I now use the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS macro almost exclusively for all of my portrait and headshot work. At only $1,099, brand new from B+H, it's a steal. It's got just the right amount of compression, it's razor-sharp, and while it's only a pound lighter than the 70-200, it feels a lot lighter (it's shorter, too). I bought it mainly to reduce the weight and bulk for handheld portraiture. Now, I can't imagine lugging around that heavy, long, 70-200mm around for several hours at a stretch. Plus, I think it's now the sharpest lens I own.</p> <p>I just shot an entire event with just three lenses: The AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm f/4.0G VR on a flash-fired body, and the Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS and Sigma 35mm f/1.4 primes on my "available-light" body. Here's a sample Sigma 150mm shot from an event last weekend (Imagenomic's Portraiture plug-in was applied to clean-up the subject's skin):</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/sigma150-BB-1-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br> Nikon D3s + Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS</p>

<p>Several years ago, I bought a refurbished AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G VR I for $1,300 to replace my ancient push-pull AF Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8 zoom. At that price, the lens is a terrific value. I wanted the VR I version specifically for its longer focal length at close-focus, which I believe is only about 137mm at max. zoom/min. focus on the VR II version. The VR I's $1,000-lesser price tag didn't hurt either. Corner sharpness isn't an issue for my use of the lens. As far as center sharpness goes, it's one of my sharpest Nikkors, with probably the best bokeh:</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/vogue70-200-4C.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br /> Nikon D3s + AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G VR I</p>

<p>I love my refurbed Nikon D3300 and its 18-55mm kit lens, both, purchased for $399. It's sharp as heck and very compact. Sure it's slow, but its improved VRII works great. Order the optional HB-69 petal lens shade ($24.95), and it actually looks pretty cool! Here's the 18-55mm as shipped, without the HB-69 hood:</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/HB69-3.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /></p> <p>In addition to the functional and cosmetic benefits, adding the HB-69 lends some additional protection to the front-element:</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/HB69-2.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /></p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/HB69-4.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" /></p> <p>I took this 18-55mm shot at 1/10 of a second, handheld:</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/D3300H-1.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /></p> <p>I now keep two DX bodies with me at all times as my "travel" kit (my pricey FX bodies stay at home in a safe unless they're working). For the long-end, I keep a 70-300mm VR FX Nikkor (bought refurbished for $249) mounted on my second DX body, a D3200 (also bought refurbished, also for $249). Although I'm "wasting" my FX-capable zoom on a DX body, it was cheap enough that I won't care as much if it gets damaged, lost, or stolen.<br> <br /> Try checking stock at major online resellers for refurbished Nikon DX gear. There seems to always be plenty of it around, and they're often sold at significant discounts. All of the refurbished Nikon gear I've purchased always looks brand new, too! Most, I assume are customer returns and were likely hardly used, if at all.</p>

<p>Tommy:</p> <p>I'm glad you re-visited this thread. For what it's worth, we happen to be in the process of building a new interior TV studio where I work (basically, an ancillary insert-stage on a floor in a high-rise building), and we've also been considering the following DMX-able, panel-style lights (specifically for their slightly higher output):</p> <p>Cineo: http://www.cineolighting.com/<br /> KinoFlo Celeb: http://www.kinoflo.com/Products%20Button/LED/Celeb%20400%20DMX/Celeb400_DMX.html</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/HB69-3.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /></p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/HB69-2.png" alt="" /></p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/HB69-4.png" alt="" /></p>

<p>Always wanted an IR body myself. Those IR images are cool, Chip! Yeah, the VR is pretty good. I was just playing around with some 1/2-second handheld exposures my living room.</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/jessLA-15.png" alt="" /><br /> Nikon D3s + AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/jessLA-1.png" alt="" width="467" height="700" /><br /> Nikon D800E + Sigma 150mm f/2.8 OS</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/jessLA-9.png" alt="" width="467" height="700" /><br />Nikon D3s + AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G</p>

<p>I got the new Nikkor 18-55mm VR II with my refurbished Nikon D3300 (both for $399). I'm extremely pleased with the lens' performance, and upon inspecting my initial images, it appears super-sharp with excellent contrast. I actually like the compact form factor when retracted, and its VR works really well:</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/D3300G-4.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br /> Nikon D3300 + AF-S Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II @ 18mm; ISO: 100; f/3.5 @ 1/4 sec. (handheld).<br /> <br /> I didn't even know they made a hood for this lens--thanks for posting those images! I'll probably spring for the $25 Nikon petal hood since the lens looks naked without it (plus, it'll provide a modicum of front-element protection since I don't use any "protective" filters). I assume the <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1037085-REG/nikon_4994_hb_69_bayonet_lens_hood.html">Nikon HB-69</a> is the correct hood for the VRII version of this lens.</p>

<p>Gene said:</p> <blockquote> <p><em>Probably the best option is the D750, especially if it's only 50 gr. heavier than the D7200.</em></p> </blockquote> <p>I didn't realize the D750 was only slightly heavier than the D7200. But is the D750 "lighter-enough" than your D700 (750g vs. 995g)? My old D7000 weighs 780g, and compared with my D3300 (410g), it feels like a brick. But if the D750 fits your requirements, it would obviously be the better performer (you'll see a noticeable improvement in low-light performance with the D750, compared with either your D700 or a D7200).</p>

<p>I think current Nikon DX offerings are excellent street/travel options. I have heavy FX bodies and fast, heavy glass, but I really wanted to travel lighter for casual use. I, too, went through my ILC/mirrorless phase: Samsung NX, Sony NEX, Nikon Coolpix A . . . I never ventured below a DX-sized sensor, but, I eventually returned to the conveniences of a conventional DSLR (mainly, for the ease of using an optical viewfinder with an available, after-market HoodMan eyecup).</p> <p>I chose a refurbished Nikon D3300 as my carry-all-the-time/travel body, and I love it (I also own a Nikon Df, but oddly, I haven't even touched it since buying my D3300). The D3300 weighs less than a pound, and I think it's cool that it's Nikon's first "monocoque" carbon-fiber body. Only $399 (refurbished), including the new 18-55mm VR II kit lens (don't laugh, it's pretty good), plus I bought a new DX ultra-wide for it: The very affordable (variable-aperture) Sigma 10-20mm HSM ($379):</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/D33-2.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /></p> <p>I usually have any one of three lenses mounted to it: The 18-55mm VR II, AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G, or the Sigma ultra-wide. Though pricey, the new AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G would make a great 30mm-equivalent street lens on any DX body. As far as shutter noise, I also bought a Nikon D3200 last year (also refurbished). That camera has the quietest shutter of all my DSLRs, and in fact, has a very "satisfying" sounding shutter (the D3300's shutter is a tad louder for some reason). I usually keep my D3200 with the 70-300mm VR mounted.</p> <p>The new Nikon D7200 weighs a bit over a half-pound more than the D3300, and costs $800 more than my refurbed D3300 w/kit lens. The D7200 bests the D3300 in a number of ways: 1/8,000th top shutter speed, 1/250th sync, pentaprism viewfinder, one more FPS, ability to focus screw-drive lenses, dual command dials, a larger, better AF array, etc., but I really enjoy the economy and lightweight-build of Nikon's newest entry-level DSLRs.</p>

<p>For ENG/EFP use, you're basically competing with KinoFlo Diva-Lite 200/400s, which are fluorescent-based units. We do also use LitePanel-brand 1' x 1' bi-color LED panels, but only for fill (we don't use them for keys because their source size is too small). Both KinoFlo fluorescent tubes and LightPanel LEDs produce excellent color rendition. Off-brand LED panels often need correction gel (e.g., 1/4-minus green). The problem with LitePanels is their cost: About $1,000 for a single 1' x 1' bi-color panel. Ideally, I would prefer a larger source, where a 2' x 3' panel would strike a good balance between weight, size, and light quality. The ideal LED array for ENG/EFP television field production would be:</p> <p>• 2' x 3' LED array.<br /> • Variable color temperature (bi-color).<br /> • Dimmable.<br /> • Under 12 lbs.<br /> • Under $2,000 USD.<br /> • AC/DC-powerable.<br /> • Accommodates Anton/Bauer GoldMount 14.4V "brick" batteries.<br /> • Uses ball-and-socket mount (not a yoke), similar to current KinoFlo Barfly mounts.<br /> • Neither DMX connectivity nor a digital display (e.g., Kelvin) is necessary (but may be offered in a separate, more expensive studio version).</p> <p>Essentially, take the basic design of a LitePanel 1' x 1' bi-color/flood LED panel, or a Manfrotto Spectra 1' x 1' bi-color/flood LED panel, and make larger, single-unit versions of these (ganging individual 1' x 1' panels makes the rig too heavy). CRI has to be perfect and consistent from unit to unit. If you can meet these requirements at anywhere near that price point, you'd sell a ton of 'em to ENG field crews.</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/samaria-C4C.png" alt="" /><br> Nikon D3300 + AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G; ISO: 400; f/2.8 @ 1/200th.</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/samaria-C1.png" alt="" /><br> Nikon D3300 + AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G; ISO: 400; f/2.8 @ 1/200th.</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/samaria-C4.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br> Nikon D3300 + AF-S Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G; ISO: 400; f/2.8 @ 1/200th.</p>

<p>The Zabolight Z2 models are LED arrays, similar to LitePanels' 1' x 1' units. The Zabolight Z5 is an actual Fresnel. These actually look pretty cool. Photometrics are listed on their product page:<br> <br /> <a href="http://www.zabolight.com/inc/sdetail/z5_dmx_5600k_fresnel/1446">Zabolight Z5 photometrics</a></p>