studio460

<p>Jeff said:</p> <blockquote> <p><em>There is no reason any of this matters for eBay photos.</em></p> </blockquote> <p>He wants to shoot other things as well. This information is in direct reply to his query, <em>"Is there a lot of difference between the D3200 and the D3300?"</em></p>

<p>I have both a Nikon D3200 and a D3300. The D3200 has a quietest shutter of any camera I own. The D3300 has a newer sensor that has a slightly improved DxO rating for low-light performance. The D3300 is also slightly lighter thanks to its monocoque (single-piece) carbon-fiber body, and shoots 1FPS faster than the D3200 at 5FPS. The FPS and slight improvement in low-noise imaging gives the edge to the D3300. Otherwise, the bodies are very similar in performance.</p> <p>The cameras both performed above expectations, and image quality is about the best you can get in an APS-C body since both sensors are rather recent. Note that the D3300, though light, is strong, thanks to its carbon-fiber body, and after carrying heavy, full-sized FX bodies for awhile, you come to really appreciate the "cheap-feeling," lightweight D3000-series bodies.</p> <p>I bought refurbished versions of both cameras (at different times), and each looked brand new when I got it. I've dropped them, abused them, and shot with them in the pouring rain, and both performed flawlessly. Search for "Nikon D3200 refurbished" or "Nikon D3300 refurbished" to get the best deals (Cameta Camera tends to blow these out every once in a while).</p>

<p>New DC-135 studio strobe test:</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-12-1-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-<strong>∅</strong><br />Focus distance: 6.5'<br />Source: Elinchrom ELC Pro HD 500 x2: 39" mini-octa (camera-right key)/24" x 31.5" softbox w/Rotagrid (3/4-kick).</p>

<p><strong>First "real-world" DC-135 field test:</strong></p> <p>I took my Nikon Df and AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D to a simulated event this evening: A family Thanksgiving dinner. Focus accuracy was actually much better than in previous static tests for whatever reason, much better than the 50% hit-rate I was attaining in-studio (all images were taken with the Df at an AF-correction setting of +20). Focus was un-assisted since I was using off-center AF-points (even though I was using an SU-800 to control my pole-mounted Speedlight). I feel far more confident now in the lens' AF accuracy than I did prior to this "real-world" test. Due to these results, I now consider the DC-135 to be a viable part of my working lens inventory.</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-9-4-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br /> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-<strong>∅</strong><br />Focus distance: 5.5'<br /> Source: Nikon SU-800/SB-600 + Chimera small pancake lantern + Lastolite pole.<br /> <br /> <img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-9-1-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" /><br /> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-<strong>∅</strong><br />Focus distance: 8.2'<br /> Source: Available-light (mixed-ambient: incandescent, LED, fluorescent).</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-9-5-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" /><br /> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-<strong>∅</strong><br />Focus distance: 7.3'<br /> Source: Nikon SU-800/SB-600 + Chimera small pancake lantern + Lastolite pole.</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-8-2-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-<strong>∅</strong><br />Focus distance: 9.8'</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-7-2-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-<strong>∅</strong><br> Focus distance: 12'<br> <strong> </strong></p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-7-2A.png" alt="" /><br> [100%-crop]</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-7-1-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" /><br> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-<strong>∅</strong><br> Focus distance: 4.9'</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-7-1A.png" alt="" width="700" height="468" /><br> [100%-crop]</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-6-2-700.png" alt="" /><br> [65% enlargement; mild skin-smoothing]</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-5-7.png" alt="" width="467" height="700" /><br> Test #4: Focus distance 20'<br />Nikon D800E + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-<strong>∅</strong> +20 AF-correction<br />ISO: 50; Tiffen ND 0.6<br> <br> <img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-5-6.png" alt="" width="463" height="700" /><br> [100%-crop]</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-5-2.png" alt="" /><br> Test #4: Focus distance 7.4'<br> Nikon D800E + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-<strong>∅</strong> +20 AF-correction<br> ISO: 50; Tiffen ND 0.6</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-5-1.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" /><br> [100%-crop]</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-5-3.png" alt="" /><br> [AF-point]</p>

<p>NAS cured? Never. But at least I've finally cured my decades-long NAS for the DC-135 (having first purchased my DC-105 several years ago). I've never tried the much-lauded Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 AI, but I did buy a used Nikkor f/1.8 AI-S a while back for cine applications (though I've never actually shot stills with it). I do also love the DC-like spherical aberration of the Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 AI-S when shot wide-open, but since none of my bodies have a decent focusing screen for focusing manual lenses, I never use it.</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/studio460/50ais-s-1.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="467" /> <br /> Nikkor 50mm f/1.2 AI-S</p> <p>Of course, with my luck, I'm guessing Sigma will announce the "perfect" mid-tele portrait lens any day now, and of course, that lens will become my new object of obsession (as has their new Sigma 24-35mm f/2.0 Art lens, which has bested both the AF-S Nikkor 24mm f/1.4G and AF-S Nikkor 35mm f/1.4G primes in recent tests).</p> <p>But what I've learned through the course of this thread is that sharpness and MTF is not the be-all, end-all of a lens' total assessment, as my tests with my mother proved (see previous page). And, that software alone cannot replicate the nuanced optical characteristics of either vintage lenses or certain "benchmark" optics such as the AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G (why exactly <em>does</em> that lens look so good on people?). That reminds me . . . I still need to set up a shoot to fully exploit the special qualities of Nikon's "worst lens," which I bought specifically for use with my Nikon Df: the pre-AI Nikkor 43-86mm f/3.5.</p>

<p>Goals and expectations:</p> <p>My original objective in getting the DC-series f/2.0 lenses was for their shallow depth-of-field capabilities. After some initial struggles with both my AF technique, and dialing in the proper amount of AF-correction, I'm now a bit more sure about their operation. I'm anxious to see the difference in background de-focus on the DC-135, compared with the DC-105, as soon as I can get a willing subject and a suitable exterior location. Short-focus distance tests look great, but the real test will be full-length shots with the lens a few dozen feet from the subject.</p> <p>As I said, my razor-sharp Sigma 150mm f/2.8 will be reserved for subjects with youthful skin and expertly applied make-up. Also, the Sigma's actual maximum aperture is f/3.0, so it's not as shallow-focus capable as the f/2.0 DC lenses. Although my AF-S Nikkor 70-200 f/2.8G VR I is an excellent portrait lens with beautiful bokeh, it's just too long and heavy for extended handheld work.</p> <p>While the DC-series may not offer the ultimate in sharpness wide-open, as I mentioned before, they offer other capabilities not easily replicated in software. And, while the LoCA is less noticeable (and sometimes non-existent) on human subjects (though, I have noticed the magenta/green fringes on eyelashes at times), these lenses offer unique capabilities, arguably worth their perceived weaknesses for some, if not most. As an added plus, the DC lenses "feel" right on the Nikon Df, their metal barrels and crinkle-finishes making for a highly pleasing aesthetic match.</p> <p>I just ordered a set of Tiffen 72mm ND filters for both DC lenses (0.6, 0.9, 1.2), so I'll be able to open up my DC-135 all the way to f/2.0 outside. I also recently bought 67mm and 58mm sets (for my 35mm f/1.4 and 50mm f/1.4 lenses), plus a Tiffen 77mm variable ND for my AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G (one of Adorama's PhotoPlus specials) for more f/wide-open photography.</p>

<p>AF DC-Nikkor 105mm f/2.0D + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D:</p> <p>More days of random tests, and after shooting static objects in my office, my DC-135 actually appears pretty darn sharp wide-open (LoCA issues aside), so it looks like I'll be keeping it. I've concluded that my initial tests suffered from poor AF-acquisition (for whatever reason), and not a deficiency in the lens' optics. As I said, cosmetically, the lens is really beautiful, and I'm not likely to get another copy in such pristine condition:</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-lens-2-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /></p> <p>As legend has it, the DC-series lenses have been credited with producing alluring images with unique character, so owning both focal lengths for someone who shoots a lot of people seems a good bet. I was at a 2016 Olympics promotional event last Friday, hoping to snap a pic of the gorgeous Alex Morgan on my set-up after our interview, but I could only manage a picture of my soundman (note that the background is only a few feet from the subject):</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC105-olympics-2-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" /><br /> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 105mm f/2.0D: f/2.0; DC ring @ neutral setting.<br /> Primary key: KinoFlo Diva-Lite 200 (3,200K) + 30° honeycomb.</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-mom-2-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" /><br /> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0; DC ring @ neutral setting.<br /> Primary key: Window light (indirect daylight).</p> <p>Above is a picture of my mom taken this afternoon. Although the source is super-soft (a large array of indirect sunlit-windows), the uber-shallow depth-of-field helped to effect a much kinder rendition to her skin. My Sigma 150mm f/2.8 was not so kind, revealing a razor-sharp field of unflattering texture. For young models with perfect make-up, it'll be my Sigma 150mm. For others, it'll be the AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D.</p>

<p>Michael, those do look sharp. Does everyone agree that the above re-shot sample images from my DC-135 look about as sharp as it gets? I think my earlier DC-135 tests were flawed somehow.</p>

<p>Test #3: Nikon D800E + AF DC-Nikkor f/2.0D +15 AF correction.<br> <br /> <img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-TEST4-D800E-4-700.png" alt="" /><br /> Nikon D800E + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-0; +15 AF correction.</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-4-D800E-1.png" alt="" /><br /> [100%-crop]</p>

<p>Test #3: Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D +20 AF correction.</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-TEST4-Df-2.png" alt="" width="700" height="466" /><br /> Nikon Df + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-0; +20 AF correction.</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-4-1-100.png" alt="" width="701" height="468" /><br /> [100% crop]</p>

<p>Felipe said:</p> <blockquote> <p><em>. . . but am hoping that you guy can help me understand the downside of the slow flash duration of the HS Head.</em></p> </blockquote> <p>Sorry, I never answered your question. The downside is the inability to freeze motion (but for most subjects it should be fine).</p>

<p>The new Elinchrom HS head is a long-duration flash head for use with Ranger Quadra RX/Hybrid/ELB-series pack systems. It's designed to deliver HyperSync-like capabilities when used in conjunction with Elinchrom's new EL-Skyport Plus HS transmitter. This allows you to use the "sync-timing hack" to shoot at shutter speeds above your camera's native x-sync (i.e., above 1/250th).<br /> <br /> Previous to the announcement of the HS head, those seeking similar results bought the Pro 'S' head, rather than the Action 'A' head, which has the shortest flash duration of the three RQ heads (HyperSync/Hi-Sync works best with long-duration strobe heads). My Elinchrom ECO ringflash, using PocketWizard TT1/TT5 transmitters in HyperSync mode, was only capable of up to 1/640th-sync on a Nikon D3s, but according to Elinchrom, the ECO will also benefit from higher sync speeds using the new Elinchrom transmitter:<br /> <br /> <img src="http://studio460.com/images/ringflashex-2C.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br /> Nikon D3s + AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G + Elinchrom ECO Ranger Quadra ringflash..<br /> ISO: 100; f/2.8 @ 1/640th.</p> <p>If you want to shoot daylight exteriors at higher than x-sync shutter speeds, you want the new HS head, not the Pro 'S' head, but you'll also need to the purchase the new EL-Skyport Plus HS transmitter ($250).</p>

<p>By the way, that was the first time I mounted my DC-105 on my Df. I had to dial in a +15 AF correction on that body (now, it's spot-on). The DC-135 seemed to need an out-of-range +25 correction on my Df. Weird that you had the exact opposite experience with your 105/135, Oliver, but, I guess not all that surprising, given the idiosyncratic nature of these lenses. I do, however, also have a lower AF hit-rate on my DC-105 than, say, my AF-S Nikkor 85mm f/1.4G.</p>

<p>Michael said:</p> <blockquote> <p><em>You do realize that as you make the DC affect stronger with out stopping the lens down it turns into a soft focus lens.</em></p> </blockquote> <p>Yeah . . . I think it's a cool effect (especially when back-lit), one that's difficult to replicate in software. I also used to own the Mamiya soft-focus lens for my RB67, many years ago, which I really liked.</p> <p>Oliver said:</p> <blockquote> <p><em>That is another thing I meant to say. You are not supposed to select a DC value higher than your current aperture.</em></p> </blockquote> <p>Yes, I'm aware of that. I deliberately set the R-value past the aperture setting in the posted images to demonstrate the exaggerated spherical aberration possible with this lens. For normal photography with this lens, I typically match the R-value to the aperture value. According to my initial tests when I first bought my DC-105 several years ago, it's sharpest at R-2 when wide-open.</p>

<p>Well, the good news is, the seller is taking back the lens and paying all the return shipping fees. It's too bad, because I really wanted to like this lens--it's in mint-condition, and gorgeous, aesthetically (the bad news is, I have no idea where my AF Nikkor 180mm f/2.8D is).</p> <p>The upshot of this whole experience is that I've "re-discovered" my AF DC-Nikkor 105mm f/2.0D, and now plan on shooting with it a lot more. Plus, with its shorter focal length, I'll be closer to my subjects, which will be handy for shooting with my Elinchrom ECO RQ ringlight.</p>

<p>Yes, I'm re-focusing after DC adjustment. Shot several hundred frames under short-duration strobes. Using the back AF button, AF-C, single-point, with the focus point hovering over the subject's eye. I think the D3s images are a bit sharper (also dialed in at +20), and that the lens is slightly further out of adjustment on my Df (also at +20).</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-TEST-3-R2-700.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br /> Nikon Df @ ISO 50 + AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-2; +20 AF correction.</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-TEST-3-R2-100-700.png" alt="" width="700" height="467" /><br /> [100% crop of above image]<br /> <br /> <img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC105-100percent-700.png" alt="" width="701" height="467" /><br /> [Nikon D3s @ ISO 100 + AF DC-Nikkor 105mm f/2.0D: f/2.0 @ R-0; 100% crop]</p> <p>Well, I think that does it. This DC 135 is going back to its seller. Will drop my AF Nikkor 180mm f/2.8D for repair next week and see what they say.</p>

<p>If I hadn't dropped my AF Nikkor 180mm f/2.8D a few years ago, with these sample images now in hand, I would probably immediately decide to return the DC 135 (I dropped my 180mm on the F-mount and expect it to cost a fair amount to repair). I'll probably drop it off at Nikon and ask for an estimate. If reasonable, the DC 135 is likely to go back to the seller, and I'll have the 180mm as a compact, "vintage" tele for my traveling Nikon Df kit.</p>

<p>Second test shoot with AF DC-Nikkor 135mm f/2.0D on a Nikon Df:</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-TEST-2-R0-700.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" /><br> f/2.0 @ R-0</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-TEST-2-R2-700.jpg" alt="" /><br> f/2.0 @ R-2</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-TEST-2-R4-700.jpg" alt="" /><br> f/2.0 @ R-4</p> <p><img src="http://studio460.com/images/DC135-TEST-2-R5-700.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="466" /><br> f/2.0 @ R-5.6</p>

<p>Here's what would solve the problem:</p> <p>1. Nikon releases a modern implementation of their patented 135mm f/1.8 AF lens with VR.<br /> 2. Sigma releases a 135mm f/1.8 "Art" lens, with stabilization.</p> <p>Apparently, some here have posted they've been hoping for years that Nikon would soon productize their 135mm f/1.8 patent. However, I think the latter is more likely than the former (especially in light of Sigma's spate of recent releases), where a fast mid-tele <em>with</em> stabilization would be a hugely welcome addition to the cadre of F-mount lenses available today.</p>