User_6502147

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<p>I think 24-85 would do the job, but most of the time I venture out with my Tammy 90/2.8 and it also give me the macro, which I often use.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>No idea why the text doubled.</p><div></div>

<p>Couple of shots from Fairbanks wild space in town. D610 and 300/4.5.</p> <p>Les</p><div></div>

<p>Couple of shots from Fairbanks wild space in town.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Considering the sale B&H has on the Tamrons, I'd go with that....you are essentially slicing $260 off the price. If you don't have to have the F2.8, the newer Nikkor 70-200/4 is sharp and lighter.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>OK, granted, this is bit of a longing.....:>)</p><div></div>

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<p>I'm using Feisol 3371 CF, since I'm somewhat taller....and I detected no issues with 4x5. This works for me and the Arca-Swiss head is rated at 130lbs. Well, 8x10 requires an overkill like Ries perhaps....and I'm not going to try to convince you that my set up is adequate for the monster....tho I'll soon be using it for field 5x7 (relatively light).</p> <p>Tripod head should be v. stout, particularly as you pan down/up, since those are no longer static forces.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Not big on next year resolutions. As a norm, I carry plans from one year to another. I could slow down and do more B&W (film) and do more abstracts. Hmmm, that either happens or not (stress removed :>).</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Something seasony from closed Crater Lake NP.</p><div></div>

<p>Try reducing your photo to 1000 pixels on the long end, prior to posting here. If your reduced photo that's on your <em>desktop, </em>you could just slide it into position when the "Browse" prompt appears. Due to potential copyright issues, it's advisable that you use your own images.</p> <p>Agree, Winter tends to stretch the shadows and that would happen with just about any subject. You could use a large prop or material to block the light (a tent ?) to get a softer light. Try using a house shadow for portraits, etc....much softer and more manageable light. Sure, waiting for clouds might take a while :>).</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Try reducing your photo to 1000 pixels on the long end, prior to posting here. If your reduced photo that's on your <em>desktop, </em>you could just slide it into position when the "Browser" prompt appears. Due to potential copyright issues, it's advisable that you use your own images.</p> <p>Agree, Winter tends to stretch the shadows and that would happen with just about any subject. You could use a large prop or material to block the light (a tent ?) to get a softer light. Try using a house shadow for portraits, etc....much softer and more manageable light. Sure, waiting for clouds might take a while :>).</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Had some peeling birch, but it will have to be another time....</p><div></div>

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<p>Do you have a visual example ? That would help. I'm not quite sure why you capitalize certain words, and don't wish to play English police. I mean "Camera Daylight Pictures"...can you explain the significance of this ? Thanks.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>If I was you, I'd get one filter or several (+) close up filters (one size) that will fit the largest lens and then get step down rings to fit all other lenses. For instance, you could have a 67mm filter as largest lens and a 67mm to 58mm ring, 55, 52, 49, etc. This way you only have to buy one close up set.</p> <p>Just measure the filter thread for each lens. Those rings are relatively inexpensive.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>.....</p><div></div>

<p>Procam used to this work (in LA basin) but ??? You can still process 16mm films at FotoKem and most likely at Yale Labs too (they do all sorts of 8mm too).<br> Hmmm, give Whitehouse AV a shout and perhaps they might be able to recommend someone.</p> <p>Les</p>

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<p>Agree with Ross, the lab does not determine which is the better lens. Ultimately, it's the image (reflective on photographer) that does the talking. I've seen many fine images that were done with cheapo lenses....at least in comparison to Leica/Zeiss/Schneider stratosphere.<br> Les</p>

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