User_6502147

Yey, Laura!

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<p>http://www.desertusa.com/wildflo/mnp.html</p> <p>You might get something out of this site. Check when the puppies are in bloom at Apple Valley near Victorville. Can't vouch for it, but heard much about it.</p> <p>Les</p>

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<p>Unless you are shooting for some strange effect, the light should fall evenly on the painting. If you can't control the light inside, you may have to bring it outside into a shade/overcast. I'd photograph it with longer lens....preferably a prime (longer than 50mm), such as 60/70/85/105 in sections-overlapping and stitch everything. You may have to use pola filter to remove minute reflections. Also you may need a ladder. If you do stitch it, it would be highly advisable that you determine WB and lock it....an auto-WB will most likely shift from shot to shot, and it will be difficult to repair that.</p> <p>Can't suggest camera settings, since lighting will determine that. Try using, however, some sort of DOF, I mean one or two stops from wide-open aperture....this will give you sharper results and without introducing diffraction. Try keeping it on some sort of steady platform or tripod, which would help you to keep the ISO's at minimum (better image quality).</p> <p>Les<br> </p>

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<p>Taking this shot was no small feat and I was pretty much hanging on some rock formations on rather steep slope, which could have given up....and roll down the hill - near Mt Whitney. The large boulder was between the little one and the tree....who knows, the snow might change the dynamics (weight) and it could careen down the slope.</p> <p>Les</p><div></div>

<p>Well, film is something other than the current "standard". Since many humans are curious, this may account for this behavior.....or/and the 'novelty' factor.</p> <p>Les</p>

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<p>Sometimes it's just the copy. I bought 3 lenses (used) 50/1.8 E, 50/2 and 50/1.4. Despite the fact that Bjorn says that the 50/2 would trump the others....as it turned out, that the 50/1.4 AIS became a winner. I shot all of them at F2 and other Fstops - they were all good -</p> <p>Prior to that, I had 50/1.8D and although it was quite sharp, again the F1.4 AIS still surpassed it in sharpness.</p> <p>That's me, others may have a slightly different take.</p> <p>Les</p><div></div>

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<p>One thing some of us have done (using film), as everything was in manual by default, that one had to determine where the <strong>crest of the action</strong> was....and usually there was no reshoots unless the person was doing warm ups, first. I've shot gymnasts in the air (while in HS) and I normally kept it at 1/500sec and developed the film at 1600-2000ASA. It can be done, but we now have way better tools, tho the lighting still seem to be ka ka.</p> <p>If I were you, and if this was a serious shoot, having a practice run wouldn't hurt, particularly if you could test the lights at this place, even if the sport was different.</p> <p>I'd echo the idea of using a fast 50mm (1.8 or 1.4), same with 85mm and I'd add 35mm (F2 or faster). It wouldn't hurt if you had two camera bodies and this way you could utilize shorter and longer lenses at whim and without spending the time to change them (most sport photographers do this). Anyway, you may have to rent some items to get this done.</p> <p>Furthermore, I'd start around ISO 2000 and the lens at F2 and adjust till you are happy with the results. Also,<br> if you are not privy to be near the gymnasts, you may have to get (or rent) longer glass like 135/2 or 200/2. </p> <p>Good luck.</p> <p>Les<br> <br /><br /></p>

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<p>Well, I found beauty in this decaying mess....</p><div></div>

<p>That back light bothered me, but was unable to erase it. May have cropped bit too much.</p><div></div>

<p>Unless you are out there for a month or more, I'd echo those who would just keep the memory cards till you can down load them properly. This way you not need to worry about replication or a failure of whatever gismo you may get (even expensive electronics can fail)....to down load it to. Also, SD cards are small and light....so you'll have less stuff to haul around.</p> <p>Les</p>

<p>Not sure if you prefer 50 or 35mm, but personally I'd take the 20, 50 and 70-200. Last time I took a cruise on Danube ('82 in Austria mostly) the 24mm was quite handy too. But, overall it's a personal choice and how comfy you are with the angle of view. Enjoy the trip.<br> Les</p>

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<p>Nikon did appropriate adjustments and gave you a decent price....I mean even if you had 20K actuations, you still have plenty spunk left in this rig. Go out, make images and enjoy it......or resell it if it really bothers you.</p> <p>Les</p>

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