francesco_bertelli2

<p>this is an old thread but for the sake of food info also myowncolorlab.com at 27th st has an Imacon 949 for rental at 55$/hour</p>

<p>I think there is a little of confusion around these backs, let me know if these equations:<br>

Polaroid 405 / Fuji PA-145 --> FUJI FP100C<br>

whereas<br>

Polaroid 550 / Fuji PA-45 --> FUJI FP100C45</p>

<p>is this correct?</p>

<p>are basically pola 405 and fuji pa145 like the classic backs I used for the Hasselblad?</p>

<p>thanks</p>

 

<p>thanks guys!</p>

<p>there are so many cheap 4x5 used cameras arounf 150$ or even less sometimes on ebay, that is not worth to build a camera yourself, spend lot of time for a mediocre results, unless is for aspecial need like Ultra LF... if you dont have the money buy a pencil and draw instead of shooting</p>

<p>I own a toyo 45CF and is the best camera I have for the projects I do. (so it really depends on your peojcts)<br>

is superlight like any other 4x5, easy to fold, and manage.<br>

I use a brembo CF super light with a gitzo tripod ball head, and i never had a blur on my slides shooting at 1/30<br>

my equipment is freaking lightweight compared to anything else I have (nikon d700, hassy, mamiya etc)<br>

people think is plastic so is not good: whatever..<br>

people are too much concerned about the lack of this or that...who care..yes it get scratched pretyt easily, but who care about cosmetic condition, just shoot some good picture for christ sake! <br>

the front raise of "only" 30mm is enough to move the ground away form you composistion with a 150mm<br>

Initally I was concerned about the fornt-raise of 30 compared to 40mm of other brand but i never use more that 20mm front-raise, never, and i do architecture ph.<br>

it doesnt have lots of movement, yes, so this is not a camera for studio work neither for extreme architecture ph. and I'd never suggest it to a newbie in 4x5 because you cant really learn form it<br>

but for urban and nature landscape this camera is an amazing product (also considering the good price)<br>

durability: again is not a camera that can last 20yrs, but I'd rather buy a new one every year until I wear it out...becuause again of his extreme light weight<br>

also: the GG is not great, you have to replace it with a Yanke chinese one or any other fresnel to get it brighter<br>

i also bought a hood on ebay for few bucks to improve the image, so <strong>I never need the black cloth</strong>.<br>

in the end if you are indecise go fo a toyo 45A unless the lightweight is our main goal</p>

 

<p>I have the option to buy for cheap monay a Beattie screen form a friend that is no longer using his camera,<br /> but his screen box is reads Canhan, whereas I have a toyo... I wonder if it works anyway, considering that you have to place the screen in the same spot of your GG, so the focus plane shoudl be the same right?<br /> why beattie specify the exact brand? is it because of the size? can i use it anyway fixing it a little?</p>

<p>Doesnt work for me, error on lion osx, anybody has the icc profile?</p>

<p>thank @<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=587835">Joseph Wisniewski</a>, is the kind of answer I was looking for, also the Mike Johnston's article is very interesting</p>

<p><strong><br /></strong></p>

<p>i'm using an old jobo for 12 4x5 that was supposed for the pro equipment, but im using it on a dry table <br>

now the sheets are dry, i didn't scanned them yet, but they look good...the developing went trough good, so i just have to be aware of this gas thing... i was reading another guy on youtbue that he solves that manually popping the lid every 30 sec<br>

i also did the process at 104F so can be a good idea to do it at 85 maybe...take longer but at least is not messy<br>

QUESTION: is the blix like the fixer for BW? i mean does it affect the tinge ro what? it seems not given my blix step was very messy...</p>

 

<p>it's the press kit from Tetenal/Jobo found t B&H<br>

i also ordere some from freestyle form unicolor<br>

before buyint th ekodak product i'd like to test the process spending few buck then i can move to a enxt level...</p>

<p>my first C41 ever.<br /> film ektar 100 4x5 in jobo tank (950ml chemicals required) on a rotary unicolor motor base<br /> i followed the instructions on the paper and they dont mention if I have to wait some times before using the chemicals or not</p>

<p>point is that when i put the blix, well, what a scene! the lid came off and i spilled the blix...then i put promptly the lid and then again after few seconds again the blow..<br /> what a mess,<br>

why? is it because 1 liter is too much in a tank?? should I have waited when i prepared the chemicals before using them?<br /> anybody encountered my same problem?</p>

<p>Shooting during the last 15yrs mostly in 35mm focal lenght, and also in 4x5 with a 150mm, i feel the 50mm is like a telelphoto and I dont like it at all, and altough I love the 35mm I always feel some mm less would be even better, so maybe a 42 would be perfect...<br>

also form 35 to 50 is 15mm difference, with no real competitors in that range, whereas from 20 to 28 we have 20,21,24,28 only in 8mm range<br>

I wonder why it never became popular, there are optical reason for it?</p>

<p>something that i didn't understand if I can use more than once the chemicals or they are disposable?<br /> I just bought the JOBO press kit for 1 liter and I have a jobo tank for 12 sheets 4x5, that instructions says i can develop 32 sheets, so i dont get if i have to trhow in the sink the developer once used th firs ttime o can i save it for the next batch (i will do few minutes after..or a day later)</p>

<p>thanks!</p>

<p>does anybody know if I can find a Fujinon MTF test somewhere? Now I'm curisous about mtf and shaprness compared to the sironar and apo symmar.<br>

I found that sironar s, i slightly better that apo symmar L (whn I say slightly I'm talking something that maybe the human eye won't notice)<br>

but again, I'm pretty happy with my fujinon, but given that I'm starting a ongoing project and I will spend hundreds of shots outdoor I'd like to have the best not the better...</p>

 

<p>I was trying the ShadowHilights tool in photoshop, since I need to fix some images quikly without going to create mask for each elements, and i stumbled on this strange thing you may know the caus:</p>

<p>I tooka small portion of the big 500mb image, than i applied several SH settings and after printing 5/6 of them i choose the right one i like, i saved it as shh file.</p>

<p>When I got back to my main image and i loaded my nice-shadow.shh the result was way different..why?<br>

was the radius? why cant photoshop rearrange the value based on the size? something else caused the different results?</p>

<p>I bought for only 200$ a Fujinon 150mm i think is one of the newer model, i bought to try the focal and now after a hundred shots (90% b&W) i really like the 150, so I was wondering if it make sense to upgrade to an rodenstock APO sironar S or not?<br>

I feel the Fujnon is very sharp, but I dont have other 150 to compare it...is it worth to spend extra 400$ to get a used apo (around 600$ used on ebay)?</p>

<p>@<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=47422">Bob Salomon</a> i dont get waht you mean by grain side, given that my GG has the grain on the back side...what kind of gg are you taling about?</p>

<p>also i have another camera with a fresnel and a back plastic glass that has no grain...so your example cant be applied right?</p>

<p>yesterday I bought a Silvestri 6x loupe with tilting base, and honestly i can't see a real value of that compared to an older Horizon 4x made in russia. Actually there are more cons than pro, first off you can rotate smoothly but I feel the best focus is always when i rotate all the way down...who's gonna use all the way up? or am i mis-using it?</p>

<p>when i rotate all the way down the loupe is so short than is quite uncofortable...I'm really disappointed overall considering that I paid it 90 bucks... I know the scheiner 4x is 150$..but at least is way bigger and eaier to use...am i right?</p>

<p>wow, that's an interesting explanation! i never thought about ti...thanks!!! i'll try it tonight!</p>

<p>there is any valuable, substantial, difference between a fousing loupe and a magnifier for negatives?<br>

just asking because I want to change mine, Im using a old loupe for slides as a focusing, but I dont want to buy two of them but just one, a good one...</p>

<p>I'm cheking ebay to buy some polas, I dont need to have supe results with them, but when you think old is too old?<br>

what the major problems could be? is a unopened box from '98 too old? or a 2003? what can you expect?</p>

 

<p>great Starvy! the holga sounds exactly like what i need!!</p>

<p>I would like a very small flash, the smallest as possible, it doesn't have to be super fast or super battery-life long...<br>

i'm interested in the size, to match my rangefinder camera<br>

any suggestions?</p>

<p>yes I remember now that issue with the blue, but now that i shot a dark blue object I was surprised it was sooo light grey... there is any differnce with Ilford or Fujipan as far as you know?</p>

<p>I just developed some tmax 100 in ilford 3, then scanned on epson v700.<br>

I noticed that the blue colors ar every light, like I was using a filter on the les, but i'm just using the camera, a leica m6, with a regular 35mm.<br>

I wonder if this is somethign due to the film or the process or the scanner...<br>

does Ilford Delta 100 have a better reproduction of tones?</p>