francesco_bertelli2

<p>I want to buy a medium camera for my girlfriend. <br>

I am a pro photogrepher and i already own from hasselblad to 8x10, but this kind of gift i'm a littl eembarassed on what to choose...</p>

<p>i dont wanna buy anythign too complucated or expensive becaus my gf doesnreally know much about photgrahy<br>

so i was thinking about the Yashica MAT... i guess has the light meter built in right?</p>

<p>even i dont wanna spend to much, i dont want either spend too low and buy crap...i don't mind spend more but for good...</p>

<p>I ordered a blank lensboard for my toyo 4x5 because, for a particular project i'm thinking to drill a copal 0 slightly off center, so i can gain some millimeters...<br>

any experience on that? any drawbacks?</p>

<p> btw i have to buy the drill bit for copal 0, is it 34 or 35mm?</p>

<p>Hey Noah How much would cost a 8x10 box that accepts a Cambo bank and leansboard?</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>I just got a toyo45CF, and sicn ei was used to a cambo 8x10 now i feel using cardbox...is amazing how light it is...maybe not much control, true, but built for my specific project works fine...photography and multiporpose are words not good together ...anyway<br>

i have several lens for 8x10 but only one super angulon 121 for the 4x5<br>

i need a wide lens, btu not to wide, for streetscape, and urban arhcitecture but without exagerrated point of view... i dont like the 21 for the 35mm, maybe something close to 28/35 would be better for my project...<br>

what are the good choices in this range, excluding super expensive lenses over 700$ used?<br>

what's the equivalent of 90,105,120,125 compared to 35mm format?<br>

thanks</p>

<p>regarding the Fuji gx, waht about the lenses? it doesnt seem easyt o find them...wich one is good as 28-35mm comaored to 135?<br>

is a 65mm?</p>

<p>i have am architectural project in mind and im struggling with it...<br>

iwant to ahcieve the max resolution possible and i started with an 8x10<br>

but then i relized i shoudl use somethng more handheld...i found out<br>

that the 6x9 is a good compromise as the Bekers they used the 6x9 for acrhitectural landscapes<br>

i basically need to have a very good wide fron raise or til so i can control the perpective...that my first need</p>

<p>another need is not to spend more $700-$900 on a camera 6x9..</p>

<p>so anyone can suggest me good camera in that range? </p>

<p>thanks all of you guys!<br>

@Dave: i'm using the 8x10 because is the only camera i have and because i aways want to go out and shoot with the biggest resolution i can, since going out means money and time, so even i'm not doing big prints i think is better...this is my take..<br>

anyway i don't get what's the difference you do between contact print and enlargements...is interesting i never thought that the focus can be so different based on what you print..</p>

<p><a href="http://claspics.com/758/742656/1305834427-446.jpg.php"><img src="http://img3.claspics.com/758/742656/1305834427-446.jpg_m.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a></p>

<p>I want to build a fixed focus 8x10 camera with a<br>

fuji 250mm 6.7W<br>

a fixed front raise of 3cm<br>

the f/22<br>

and I need to determine the distance between film and lens<br>

the manufacturer distance is 246mm but that i believ is related to the infinite only, but i need to achieve the maximum dof as i can given the data above...i can shoot f/32 in case<br>

my question is:<br>

what is the minimum B distance I have to stay from the subject?<br>

what is the A distance?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks Noah!<br>

it sounds you ar ein NYC right (i live in the East Village)? do you have a workshop here in NYC? I'll send you a PM so we can write directly, so we can talk about costs etc. and also i can explain better the final scope of the project....</p>

<p>thanks COLE!!!<br>

http://www.emachineshop.com/ is what i wa slooking for...omg is amazing...</p>

<p>I have a project in mind for a 8x10 camera like theHOBO, but the HOBO is not in production anymore, but i dont have all the tools and skills to build from scratch.<br>

anybody can help me or do you know professional camera builders in US?</p>

<p>what's the point of the offset hole???<br>

my camera has lots of movements and is meant for studio, so my only scope is to have a lither version...<br>

another easy way would be to buy a cambo 4x5 cheap and light and jsut build a rear standard....<br>

but i'm thinking that maybe a cigar-box would be more interesting compared to the folding solution, because my project consist of just shooting like it was a point-and-shoot camera...so id ont wanna have a camera that i have to adjust everytime i fold it...

i'd like to think it as something you carry like a suitcase, you place it on a tripod, compose the image using a viewfinder attached on top and click...this is my final scope...

</p>

<p>i have a big Cambo 8x10 with a bunch of good lenses, but i have a project in mind and i need a lightweight situation,<br /> i dont have money to buy a chanam or so...i was thinking if is possible to build something from the camera i have (without ruining it of course!), also i'm shooting urban landscapes o the only need i have is to raise ALWAYS the font elemnt, so i can build something just for that purpose... also it coube a pre fixed focus since everythign i'm shooting i pretty far from me, so i'd say that i can calculate the distance from 10feet to infinite<br>

so i dont need a focusing system...<br>

bottom line do you have suggestion how to do it? of if there is somebody aout there i can pay to build this kind of camera for cheap/fair?</p>

<p>websites? materials? the right wood or metal?</p>

<p>thanks</p>

<p>I have a Nikkor PC lense and i was wondering if the shift of about 11mm could be enough to simulate a stereograph...od does the lenses have to be slitly swang?</p>

<p>jsut curisous,<br>

thanks</p>

<p>do you know what is supposed to be for this piece of metal and the knobs to hold it?<br>

please check the image attached </p><div></div>

<p>my question was simple but you guys always, really always "over-think" and are not able to give any answer...also i don get why people assume things that i never said...why should i have used a dx sensor? why should i overlap the images???<br>

only Scott Wilson sounds to have the better example...<br>

so let me try to ask again:<br>

if I stiched two images taken vertically using a 50mm lens on a 35mm camera full fx, the resulting image has a FOV wider than just taking a horizontal image right? i think is pretty clear this point right? so my question was: what is the "virtual" focal length you can get ("ballpark speaking")?</p>

<p>thanks guys, yes i realized that the perspective change too much to achieve it...ibteresting answers anyway<br>

thanks</p>