leighb

<p>Why go backwards? You could get an F2 and have a superior camera IMO.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>Great news, Asher. It's unfortunate you had the problem in the first place.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<blockquote>

<p>is there any place i could actually find like the actually times for different temperatures in development?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Of course. It's on every developer data sheet.</p>

<p>Just Google HC-110 datasheet or Rodinal datasheet or D-76 datasheet or whatever developer you want.</p>

<p>Or try substituting the word instructions for data sheet.</p>

<p>Also put PDF in the search terms, since that's what you want.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>It certainly does matter. Take a look at the time/temperature graphs on any developer datasheet.</p>

<p>You'll find that even a small change in temperature can make a significant difference in time.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>Hi Jason,</p>

<p>Yes, if you leave the leader protruding after you rewind the film,<br>

you can cut the leader off while the bulk of the film remains in the cartridge,<br>

then load the film onto the developing reel (in total darkness) and snip off the tail.</p>

<p>The trick is leaving the leader out of the cartridge on rewind.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>Thanks, Lex. Good info.</p>

<p>This machine is buttoned up tighter than a .... (can't say that here) for other reasons, so I just have to live with it.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>Hi Lex and Josh,</p>

<p>OK. This seems to have been a problem at this end.</p>

<p>I'm running the NoScript plug-in for Firefox. <br>

It apparently updated itself automatically and the update broke the photo.net site.</p>

<p>I whitelisted photo.net, and the pop-up menus have returned.<br>

Hopefully this post will be properly formatted.</p>

<p>Thanks for the help. Sorry to bother you.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

The "standard" refurbish would be replacing the capacitors. They're supplied as a set, so you replace all of them at once.

The flash tube would be replaced if it showed discoloration, but that seldom happens. They have a very long service life.

- Leigh

Interesting. The email acknowledgment that I received of the 12:36AM post has the text formatted correctly.

- Leigh

Hi Josh,

Yep, fully loaded. The mouse cursor changes to a finger when I hover over the Forums tab, but no drop-down.

I just noticed something else. The edit s/w is gobbling up my carriage return/line feeds.

I always format my posts, as you can see in my previous ones, but here, the lines are all run together.

Each of the four sentences in this post were entered on a separate line separated by a blank line.

- Leigh

Interesting. I haven't made any changes here that I know of... perhaps an auto updates gremlin.

Thanks.

- Leigh

These used to come up automatically when you mouse-over any of the headers at the top of the page.

All of a sudden today they're gone. You have to click on Forums, then on Unified View or whatever.

- Leigh

<p>Two unrelated factors.</p>

<p>Changing the ASA affects the shadow details. By increasing speed you lose detail.</p>

<p>N+- processing controls the rendition of the highlights on the film, not the shadows.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>You may have damaged the output transistor in the transmitter.<br>

They don't like to operate without a proper antenna.</p>

<p>This could cause unpredictable symptoms in the unit.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>That sounds like a great deal to me. If you decide to pass, give me the contact info and I'll buy it.</p>

<p>I used to be a warranty service station for Novatron, so I'm pretty familiar with what's inside.<br /> They're very well built and highly reliable. Made right here in the USA.</p>

<p>Having been rebuilt you should easily expect 10 years of use, probably more.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>Rodinal has been my developer of choice for about 50 years.<br>

It and HC-110 both suffer from the same problems in this particular situation...<br>

They're both very sensitive to time, temperature, and dilution.</p>

<p>Diafine is the most forgiving of developers, likely to achieve very good results with few issues.</p>

<p>Benzotriazole is certainly desirable with any old film. I didn't think to mention it.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I'm using this lens attached to a reversed 50mm f/1.8 D</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Huhhh?</p>

<p>What flight of fancy could possibly have suggested that combination?</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>OK. My recommendation for this would be Diafine.</p>

<p>Diafine is a two-part fine grain compensating developer that's insensitive to both time and temperature.</p>

<p>Processing recommendations are the same for all films. Do not use a pre-soak.<br /> Soak the film for 5 minutes in Part A, drain briefly, then soak the film for 5 minutes in Part B.<br /> Stop, fix, and wash as usual.</p>

<p>Temperature can be anywhere from 70°F to 85°F. The stop and fixer should be at the same temperature.</p>

<p>Diafine working solutions keep for a very long time when stored at low temperatures in the dark.<br /> It is replenished after use but not in in the conventional way. <br /> Some amount of Part A is absorbed into the emulsion, and that's the volume of liquid that must be replaced.<br /> <br /> You add enough fresh Part A to restore the original volume in iys storage bottle.<br /> Then you add that same amount of fresh Part B to its bottle, and discard any excess used Part B.<br /> <br /> <br /> - Leigh</p>

<p>There is no way to predict developer performance on any film that's outdated, even by just a couple of years.</p>

<p>Experimentation won't do any good because you can't guarantee that two rolls of the same date<br>

have had the same storage conditions.</p>

<p>I would strongly advise ignoring the old film and buy new rolls. <br /> You'll waste more money in developer cost and processing time than you'll save by using old film.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>Search for Pliobond at amazon.com and you'll get 18 hits. The cheapest one is about $4.50.</p>

<p>That's always the first place I try when I'm after something unfamiliar.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>I have no clue what "Purel alcohol gel" might be.</p>

<p>The standard adhesive used in the camera repair industry for attaching leatherette is Pliobond.</p>

<p>It provides a very secure attachment, quite resistant to temperature extremes,<br /> yet it allows the leatherette to be removed without damage when necessary to repair the camera.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>KEH has some Minox 35 cameras. I don't know if they have that particular one.</p>

<p>http://www.keh.com</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>Hi Clay,</p>

<p>I'm a member of that forum.</p>

<p>If you Google "large format photography" (without quotes) that's the first site that comes up.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>First off, take a look at the tutorials and the forum at the Large Format Photography site<br /> http://www.largeformatphotography.info<br /> Lots of good information and many helpful folks there. Great Classifieds but you must be a member for 30 days.</p>

<p>1. Film holders...<br /> Probably the best available are made by Toyo, and the price reflects that.<br /> I prefer the newer Riteway holders with an automatic slide lock and little number dials that imprint the film.<br /> My next choice is Fidelity Elite holders. The older Riteways and Lisco holders are farther down my list.<br /> Whichever you get, look for plastic dark slides rather than those with metal handles; metal handles are older.</p>

<p>2. I'm not familiar with that enlarger. Generally you use a 135mm enlarger lens for 4x5.</p>

<p>3. Lenses<br /> You may end up with many lenses. My 4x5 kit includes 14 different ones, from 65mm through 450mm.<br /> There's little difference between 135mm and 150mm. I have both (plus 105, 120, 180...)<br /> <br /> The critical parameter with a Graphic is the Flange Focal Length (FFL) of the lens. <br /> This is the distance from the lensboard to the film when focused at infinity. It's not the same as the optical focal length.<br /> Generally FFL > OFL for short lenses, about equal at mid-lengths, and FFL < OFL for long lenses (sometimes by a lot).</p>

<p>The Graphic cameras have a relatively short bellows, so the range available is less than a field camera.<br /> You can find FFL specs for any modern lens online, particularly compilations on the Ebony camera website and LFFP.</p>

<p>Also be careful of shutter size. Modern shutters include the Copal 0 (smallest), Copal 1, and Copal 3 (largest).<br>

The Graphic probably won't take a Copal 3.<br>

- Loupe<br>

You'll need a focusing loupe. I recommend the 3.6x Toyo (also branded Omega). <br /> It's almost 4" long, so you don't bump your nose into the ground glass.</p>

<p>5. Enlarger mounting...<br /> Mount it to the wall with a countertop below it.</p>

<p>BTW, the Graphic is a great camera, very rugged. It takes a licking and keeps on clicking. (sorry)</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Nordin has no definitive information.</p>

<p>I have that book (2nd ed) and checked it before making my previous post.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>