jonathan_montague
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Posts posted by jonathan_montague
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<p>i currently have a 501cm with 80mm and 120 makro. been using them for nearly 2 years. if i had the money id now get a Superwide for landscapes and a 150 for portrait work. i better keep saving! btw i have a set of Bay50 proxars up for grabs if u fancy them</p>
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<p>impossible to answer without knowing what you want to shoot with it ?</p>
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<p>there will always be some gamut warnings. a printers colour space is much smaller than the Adobe RGB colourspace. the only way to really know if what you see on your screen is close to what your printer will produce is to get test prints made and compare them to on screen. and you have to consider what lighting you are using in your workspace. if you are viewing under tungsten and the pictures are going to be seen under natural light then there's no point matching the print to your screen as you may produce a print that is not great under natural light. decide what lighting your pictures will be viewed under and work back from there.</p>
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<p>so to answer where you can see examples. go onto Flickr. either search terms 'hasselblad+60mm', or go to the Hasselblad group and search 60mm within that.</p>
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Ripoff Ebay
in Nikon
<p>2 words.</p>
<p>auction. sniper.</p>
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<p>Home dev is really only worth it for B&W work where control of development and therefore results can be tailored to your preferences. It is very enjoyable as well. You will never be as consistant with C-41 as a well run lab will be. ts not that hard and i have seen nice results but as stated the cost of chemicals for such small numbers makes it hard to justify. as for E6 - def send it to a lab.</p>
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<p>For the most options when working on an image use Prophoto in 16bit. however be aware that all printers have a much smaller rgb gamut than a monitor. if not Pro photo then sRGB or Adobe RGB are the standard.</p>
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<p>windows? no thanks.<br>
i bought it in the end for £1200<br>
of course I didnt realise I would then have to spend another £100 on peripherals to get it to connect to my Imac.<br>
oh well. I hope the expected scan quality will be worth the money and hassle.</p>
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<p>Does anyone know a fair price (in the UK) for a used Imacon Flextight Scanner ? all i have to go on at the moment is this photo.<br /><br /> http://i1083.photobucket.com/albums/j400/mediahaven16/Picture3.png</p>
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<p>maybe you can post the image so people can see what you are reffering to ?<br>
ultimately to get it done well there are no shortcuts. depending on her position in the picture you will have to draw a path around her and get her on a seperate layer, move her then fill in the spaces. probably not easy at all.</p>
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<p>agreed. very consistent. also can be extremely fast via the provided freepost box.</p>
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<p>for readability have the copy darker than the background. it maybe seems boring but black or grey text on white or just off white is the most ledgible. If you cant change the background then yes try setting the text so there is less contrast.. say 60% grey or whatever HEX value that is.</p>
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<p>short answer is you can do everything in PS. it may take a set of different layers and silver FX can shorten the process and you may find the interface friendlier. personally I think you can tell when an image has been 'Silver Efex'd and as such i stay away from it. If you do a lot of B&W that requires similar adjusment you can always have a default PSD file set up with all the required layers and just drag them ontop of the image your working with - shortens the process each time. for me the price tag was too great to invest in Silver FX, esp since I shoot film a lot anyway and a big part of the software is for 'recreating' film effects..</p>
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<p>plenty of films will fit the bill, to acheive more contrast you could always push the ISO and stand develop (if you are doing your own dev that is)<br>
Rollei do some fantastic old style films. cant go wrong with Tmax 400 either.</p>
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<p>hi Rob<br>
nice simple 1 level design. scroll display seems well used by fashionistas sites. only thing id say is reading a block of white text on a black background leaves you seeing lines in front of your eyes afterwards. something i always hate. also you could have a bit more heirachy with your text. at the moment its all the same size. try and have your body copy 2 pts smaller then your headlines at least. the eye naturally looks for heirachy, makes it a bit easier to digest for the viewer.<br>
J</p>
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<p>ive just bought 4 rolls of Rollei 400 IR 120 format. I hear its more friendly than the Efke but then ive not tried either yet. just waiting for the fiilter to arrive. my lens (80mm 2/8) has a marker on it for IR compensation, its a dotted line. other lenses have a red line or dot. I found a very imformative website or two which I will freely share with you now.<br>
http://www.digitaltruth.com/products/rollei_infrared.php<br>
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<p>apart from the 'do i need it question' the better reason to get one is the understanding of lighting it gives you once youve used one for a while. you start to almost not need a light meter at all in some situations (when using a manual camera)</p>
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<p>cant replicate that using CS4. it is the same document you are trying each layer on i assume? there may be a print preset of some kind ?</p>
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<p>thanks for the pointers. QC yes a dotted line next to the 4. got it. starting to get my head around the IR concept. lot of info to assimilate. tempted to get that light meter and some gel but wld like to get by with the seksonic J510 i already have, to start with ar least. will bracket a bit for the first couple of rolls and see what comes out if anything then go from there. better get that patternson tank ordered as well.</p>
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<p>Hi adrian. thank you for a great response. if as you say getting the aforementioned lightmeter will save £'s in film costs it sounds well worth it esp as it seems to be very cheap ?.. what is involved in 'converting' it to IR ?<br>
I will be using Rollei film and as i understand it there is no use getting a filter rated more than 720nm. I think i will go for the R72 from hoya as its half the price of the Heliopan RG715. Ive heard of some people stopping down as much as 8 stops for this filter. Even with a 5 stop reduction I think exposures are only going to be around 1-3 seconds, not long enough for a nice milky water effect on the sea.. I wonder how I can increase exposure time further... a polariser ?.... a ND filter ?... or will I just have to shoot in lower light conditions..<br>
mmm.</p>
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<p>Planning my first outing with Rollei IR film, 120 size, used in my 501cm with CB80mm Planar.<br /><br />I have done a fair bit of research regarding this film but am left with a couple of questions i hope someone here may be able to help with.<br /><br />Firstly Im unsure which filter to go for… Heliopan RG715 or HOYA R72. The Hoya is considerably cheaper.<br /><br />Also how to adjust for the focus shift given that my CB lens does not have any Red IR markings. should I just use hyperfocal distance ? (it will be landscape shots mostly)<br /><br />lastly as i understand it you need to rate the film 5-6 stops under with the above filters so ISO 12/25. If i wanted to try some longer exposure shots what effect will it have using a 110ND filter as well ? will it mess up the IR filters effect ? and what kind of reciprocity compensation should i be looking at ?<br /><br />thanks in advance :)<br /><br />Jon</p>
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<p><img src="
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<p>try a film camera ?</p>
Help needed with Imacon Flextight Photo
in Medium Format
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