bebu_lamar

Although they didn't but they could build in the RF trigger. Besides when you bring all the flashes for your CLS setup does an extra flash matter? I found the built in flash doesn't really have enough power for daylight fill because the flash has to be strong enough to match ambient light.

It is not possible to produce a RAW file that is a positive of a negative image, left alone for contrast and color correction.

I am still looking for a cheap D3.

Since the lenses are more valuable now than the camera I would take the E500 with the 2 lenses.

I do use the smallest aperture knowingly that the diffraction will rob some sharpness but I want the DOF. I would then focus on the most important subject.

$3300 was what I predict. I like the focus stacking feature and negative copying feature although they are only firmware but I like it.

You need to enter the lens data into memory for the matrix metering system to work correctly.

All the metering system is in the viewfinder I think and I believe they use a single sensor for all metering modes. Only the AF module is in the mirror box. The Nikon F5 has metering cells in the mirror box but that's because of the removable viewfinder so it could provide spot metering with the prism removed and it can do TTL flash without preflash. There is no reason to keep the metering cell in the mirror box for the digital.

No thanks! I hate Pellix because it robs too much light for the viewfinder and light is so precious because when I am shooting film it's ISO100 only. 13fps is no longer all that cool because it would run out of film fast. Much rather buy the D5 or the Sony A9 with 20fps. I still use film but high speed isn't for film.

I would use it on A or M.

I have 4 FD bodies. EF, AE-1, A-1 and AE-1P. I have sufficient lenses. 28mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.8, 135mm f/2.5 and 200mm f/2.8. If I pick one to use may be it's the A-1.

With film you are likely to get dust after the film is processed than before.

I have a good number of manual focus Canon (A-1, AE-1, AE-1P, EF and Canonflex) but no EOS so I can't speak for the case of Canon. Actually I found the Canonflex has the most charm and I likely to use it most. I have both Minolta AF and MF. Among the AF are the 9xi, 800si and 7. I might use the 7 but would care for either of the other 2 although they were the top of the line. Now I would use the XD-11 often and sometimes the SRT-101 as they are fun. None of the AF cameras can fetch any where near the Minolta XK with the 58mm f/1.2 MC that I also have.

TTL is a NO. Trigger wirelessly is possible. I think the 580ex has slave function and can be trigger by another flash. Otherwise most radio trigger system should work. The Fuji camera can only trigger a Canon flash but otherwise no other communication is possible.

Parts Hold means they have to wait for the parts?

I just learned to find interesting subjects within the lens range. Zoom of very wide range look strange.

May be future cameras should have OLED. Or are they already have them? Many phones have OLED displays.

I have a Metz 60CT4 and it works well but it's kinda bulky. I used to have 60CT2 and 45CT1.

If Nikon and other manufacturers as well used the same material as they used on the old cameras there would be no problem. The new type of material provides better grip but it's not worth it.

My Df is shipped. Expected to receive it Tuesday. I hope they did a good job cleaning the sensor.

I use a bunch of different brands flashes on my Nikon DSLR. None of them support TTL but all support A mode which is fine for me.

There is no stepper motor in any of these cameras. The aperture stops down by spring power and turns a gear which has a potentiometer to determine the position of the stop down level. When the aperture stops down to the intended aperture there is a pawl activated by a magnet to stop the gear.

Yes. They received my camera on the 8th according to the tracking information and I only received the confirmation yesterday on the 16th.

1. If the battery measured with a DMM (input impedance of around 10 MΩ) it should read above 1.5V. If it's below 1.5V it's considered dead. 2. The F3 only requires 2.4V to work but 2 batteries measured 1.385 V each with no load would not make 2.4V under load.

It's just too dark! I am aware of the problems you guys talking about but that's not it.