robert_stig

When i was shooting my 17-55 afs on my d3s and d4 it gave me the dx frame but spread out to the 35mm size/frame. Meaning that i had no black border at all. Theres a feature in there. I didnt have any darkened frame border

I do not plan on using a dx camera at all. I shoot d4. d3s and d750. No dx. My reason was to use the art lens as my midrange replacement of my stolen 24-70g lens. I dont plan on buying another nikon and because i want exceptional iq and willing to compromise on getting 47mp (19mp is more then enough for me) f/1.8 is a stop more then the nikon 2.8 I dient use the midrange area much. 18-35 art on the d850 in dx mode will give a 27-50 range which is great add the excellent build and fast aperture (brighter vf) and I think this will be a great choice Before getting the 24-70 I used my old dx friend 17-55 afs for a few years on my ff cameras in dx mode and it was fine although i used it for images like those on the dance floor where huge fioes arent extremely important. But really I dont use a midrange lens much. I prefer over 60mm and under 28 so thr sigma would give mw what im looking for As well when you shoot in dx mode, it fills the full 35mm frame which is great. Theres no dx frame with a darkened 35mm border. So for me it seems win win. Again, midrange focal lengths isnt critical for my shooting style, the sigma has a fast aperture and priced reasonably and 19mp in dx mode is excellent. Plus the sigma has outstanding IQ.

Id like to ask you for your opinion on an idea for using the sigma 18-35 art as a midranger lens to be used in dx mode for weddings with the D850. my 24-70G has been stolen and honestly I didnt use it often in weddings. id have the tamron 15-30 on one camera and the 70-200 Vr2 on the other. an 85/50 1.4 in pouches on me as well, should I need Im looking into buying the D850 for weddings and dont plan on shooting full rez at all. M fine would be what id shoot as default. the sigma 18-35 is a good midranger for me but was wondering what id give up which isnt obvious? negs-short focal range, dx lens so max is 19mp (which is enough for weddings for me). pros-price, better IQ, larger aperture, build.

<p>Thanks for that. Ill havr to look it over. Thats a damn book.<br> know I'd get raped by nikon japan. No less then aps. Q but it would be up to factory spec. As close as possible anyway. Problem is nikon japan doesnt accept outside packages. And english js a big problem. I thought about a package forwarding service in japan who can receive it in japan then send it to them. How eould i explain my peoblem to them on letter. Google translate perhaps</p> <p>I also thought about nikon thailand. I akso contacted nikon uk. They said goto my country service center. My service center sucks a** and thry themselves said they cant fix it and send it to nikon japan. Sorry we cant help you. Only from. Ireland and uk. So thought id forward it to my brother in ie, and he to them. They said sure. So its another option. </p> <p>Btw, does lens rentals fix repair lenses as a service or just for the gear they rent </p> <p>My biggest concern is af accuracy and alignment. It had some decentering before. Now.. Who the hell knows. Is this machine an expensive machine? Are there a few? Not many here in my country have a machine for it. Its the reason i believe they want to send it out. According to the estimate price they want some pay as well. Rather do it myself </p>

<p>Anybody? </p>

<p>After reading yelp reviews on Sandford and others.. Im considering sending the lens to nikon japan for repair. Anyone know their address? </p>

<p>I like aps but theres good and good and expensive. I know aps. They do good work. Ive used them many times. Was maintaining my 3 f5 cameras with them in the c41 age. Im certain there are many others that are high end and dont dilute the wallet as much. I will look around. The thing is i dont trust any of them. Who the hell knows what they put inside. What they say is new or used (refurbed part) and even what they did. They dont send you the old parts. They just say whatever they want. And who the hell know they dont swipe a good part u have with a decent part that will fail in a short time. I cant see whats being fixed. </p>

<p>Yea i know aps.. Theyre good but damn they broke my wallet every time id send an F5 to them back in the days. The lens itself cost me 750 bucks. I think theyd ask for half. I know them well. They dont try to mend/fix anything. They just replace. </p>

<p>Looking to send my 28-70 afs lens for repair to the us. It hit the ground and the zoom gets stiff from 50-28 and wont pass 35mm. The aperture tab in the rear doesnt snap back freely after opening it. So seems right side took the hit</p> <p>Looking for a place that can also align focus properly after the fact as i noticed when it was working the right side had focus forward more then the middle/left. </p> <p>Not nikon. Someone who takes decent prices. You can find expert work at decent prices. Its possible. Someone you know/had service from please. I need to send the lens in from overseas though. I will add export papers from customs to and back for me. </p> <p>Thank u</p>

<p>I shoot national bb contests twice a year. My 70-200 is barely enough for closeups and i can only get 3/4 body shots at 200. Im shooting at f3.5 to 4 and 1/160 with iso in the 3200+ your gear wont hack it. Theres a reason why ur friend gets nice images. With the 55-300 ull get your crop but u will miss a lot of shotd and the iq will be lacking imo. </p>

<p>You are demanding a lot from a 450 buck lens. You can only buy afs lenses to use with your model and they are the most expensive. You need to do research abd realize youre wanting a lot for little payment. Not going to happen </p>

<p>I would go for the 16-80. Youre trading down. Build is better optics are better. Its like going from a 28-70 2.8 afs to the 24-120 f/4. Thats a downgrade. Keep your 17-55 and get some. Primes for that extra cash u want to burn. Or if you want go for the aigma 18-35 art and and a 50/85 1.8g prime. </p>

<p>@<a href="/photodb/user?user_id=9843603">Errol Young</a> thats ok i hate raw as well. I do shoot raw in specific pictures of the outdoor images of the bg when i have such a huge dynamic range scene and need to pull harshly on highlights or shadows for better images. Other than that just jpeg. I dont need the safety net people use raw for. I get it right in the camera to almost the final image. I also manually adjust kelvin for every shot. Raw doesbt look better than jpeg. Especially with the the high end cameras. D3s d4 that i have. It has a fantastic jpeg image. I have more thab enough to pull and push parts of the image i need no issue at all. Its faster and the images look superb. We shoot around 3000 images in a wedding. Thats 12-14 hour coverage we filter it down hard to 1800 shots. Two photogs. </p>

<p>I understand u wanting to make it feel special with all genuine parts but I can tell you that all 3 F5 cameras i used in brutal conditions outdoors and in with weddings and now my d3 d3s have no covers. The ports always work.</p> <p>I remember then wanting everything nice and perfect and i simply bought these plastic cobers for the f5's then that were a few dollars and they were awesome. Today theyre even less money.</p> <p>Youre hanging on something that you dont need to spend so much time effort or money on. Just like body caps and lens caps front and back. I have more aftermarket caps then original in my bag with 6 lenses. They work really good and are inexpensive and i use my gear more than anyone here. My d3 and d3s have done over 600000 clicks each</p> <p>Mine have been through hell and back and there are no covers on both cameras. The rubber is not there. And the ports ALWAYS work </p> <p>Goto ebay. Type d300 cap port and order the cheapest one there. It will more than do the job. I, like craig never had a port not work</p>

<p>Once I used nikons service and never again. Garbage. The repair and the service is garbage </p> <p>Yes hes called Thom Hogan. Fantastic suggestion. Lock up mirror and use a lens brush or a blower. But that may push some dust into the sensor area. Dont know how comfortable u are to clean it though</p> <p>Dont forget the longer the focal length it gets harder to get accuracy so hopefully it isnt your technique. Shame u have no other camera to test with </p> <p>I always use Authorized photo service. Never nikon. They will always say impact damage or not covered in warranty. Theyre thieves. </p>

<p>Yongnuo 603mk2 605 622. I have 8x 622n slaves i used at weddings and they are workhorses. Theyve fallen many times and one busted open when falling to the floor with a flash (use 6 shanny sn600n flashes) and I glued it closed with quick glue and it works and works. 78 bucls shipped fot a pair of transceivers so that means any can sit eother on the flash or the camera and thats very convenient in stress and if one goea rogue and you have a few, just uae another and ur set, as it can used as a receiver or transmitter. If one doesnt work with a tx/rx sex youre out of luck. </p> <p>Imo the yongbuo slaves outsell anythibg out there today. At least amongst wedding photogs I know/seen/work with</p>

<p>Gutierrez- did you not notice i was saying the d7100 was more advanced than tbr d700? Its more of a cameta than the d700. She said the d700 was too much camera for her. The d7100 is more camera with newer features and video added so how is the d700 too much camera.</p> <p>But Id take the iq of a ff any day over dx. But thats because i dont need range and need the shallow dof and excellent high iso performance. Doesnt atand up to a d3s i have when comparing the same image side by side but for me its tops. I (me-for my needs) wouldnt buy a d700 though since it has 1 card slot and for me thats a dangerous gamble when shooting weddings. And i had dx. I shot with it. Its not for me. If you like it who am i to tell u what u need or like. Dont tell me what's better for me though. </p>

<p>Hahaha too much camera. The d7100 has newer tech and its less of a camera...? Dx and ff. Just sensor size is different. </p>

<p>After shooting a d7100 id never go back to dx unless i needed reach. I use ff only . Love the shallow dof and high iso ability </p> <p>60k isnt a large amount. I know 2 wedding pros who had theirs replaced after 300k clicks. </p> <p>If you need an on camera flash look into the excellent yongnuo 568/565 flashes or the amazing shanny sn600n. Ive sold my 4 nikon flashes and use 6 of these for weddings. On camera or off camera 90 bucks shipped. 1/3 less power than the sb910 ($550) and recycles faster at 1.8 seconds with eneloop pro black. Only thing that worries me asa pro is one card slot. Good luck </p>

<p>I have the 50 and 24 sigma art lenses. For me weight is not an issue and i do love the heft and mass. But since you have a problem with weight, havibg tendinitis you should lean towards the nikon. For me though iq is priority and low situation is a plenty for me in weddings so i went with the sigmas. I didnt get the nikon 24 1.4 because its just twice the price and images i saw were worse vs the sigma. The art lenses have raised the bar. </p>

<p>I always buy an all risk warranty from leaf or mack. It covers all damage. I had aprrture shutter replaced on d3 d3s <br> But I agree 100% nikon says impact damage even though it isnt. </p>

<p>The sigma 15 fisheye is a superior fisheye lens. Samyang/rokinon make a ff fisheye as well but imo its overpeiced and mf online </p>

<p>Smells fishy to me. They wouldn't send a padded box with a lens? Nah. Very smelly. </p>

<p>Consider the 24-35 f/2 art. Nasim reviewed it to be better than nikon 24 1.4g the 28 1.8g and the 35 1.8g. I have it and its big and heavy but damn its a performer weight size is a small price to pay. Anf the price was also a small amount to pay for what u get. </p>

<p>Im all for diy repairs.<br> 1-because i dont trust repair places. U never know if what they tell u regarding repair is the truth. <br> 2-because they charge too much<br> 3-i never had a situation where i repaired something and it didnt need to go back for re-repair. I used 3 different companies and they all sucked azz<br> My 85 1.4 ais started havibg issues with focus smoothness. Over the years of heavy use of shooting weddings vrime built up. I broughy it to a repair station was told 150 bucks "it has a heavy and complex system with many screws and needs adjusting" is whst the douche told me. </p> <p>I took it apart myself. Cleaned it. Rebuilt it. Smooth as silk. </p> <p>Now with all that said a simple 7 or 8 element lens isnt difficult because its all mechanical. A camera has tons of electrical inside. If you want go for it. I salute you for trying. Im wll for it. Make drawings and tape down screws to the drawings on many pages so you know where they go. </p> <p>My d3s has the same issue and im weary to put it in for repair. Why? Repair is overpriced and i dont trust the repair place wont sabotage the camera for something else to fail. Ive had it before. Even garages. My bike wouldnt start. Brought it to a local garage he said pistons went. I changed the plugs and it started right up. The carb needed rejetting. Thats not sabotage but i dont trust them for a millisecond. </p> <p> I shoot with the flash in manual mode. Im very experienced with flash so i even know the distance to stand from the subject so not so bad. It fires off in manual only. Its not accurate because at the dance floor things are changing quickly. But shooying in manual took my expertise to a much higher level. I think the repair would cost around 250 bucks</p>