robert_stig

<p>" the the side contact area to the flash."<br> <br> There are 3 small contacts and one center contact on the camera shoe. What side contact are we talking about? <br> <br> So u didbt send it ifor repair at the end? Was that lobg post yours? I didnt notice who started the thread. Basically some 1000grit sandpaper and its now ok? </p>

<p>Can someone give me a ballpark figure of flash hot shoe repair on a d3s please? I did see a long d700 post (searched nikon d3s hot shoe repair) where people noted aroubd $250. Just wondering if they would take me because its a pro level camera. Thanks u</p>

Nikon 5? U mean f5? I used 3 of those in weddings. I personally prefer the single digit cameras and 2.8 zooms. I just love the heft and weight/balance and feel in my hand. I cant relate to light and small haha

<p>For ur first part 24 sigma over the nikon for sure. Just a tad more money but build is much better and optics as well and larger aperture. </p> <p>On your 2nd part. 28 vs 24. Still 24mm. I dont like 35mm or 50 but if you need to shoot a few people together then 24 is not the fL to use. I shoot family formals at weddibg using the 70-200. Ill go back abd shoot 6-8 people full body at 70mm. Perspective is beautiful and complimenting. </p> <p>If you have the tamron 15-30/24-70 then the 35 fL is unnecessary and just get a fast 50 when u feel. </p> <p>Whats good for me might not be good for you. You have to consider if you reach for the tamron or the nikon 24-70 more between the two of them</p>

Im aware that there is a technicians software out there. My other question is what cable is used abd what port is used on the camera.

<p>My d3 had af issues last year. Would work but focus was all over and not locking. Took it to an overseas lab. </p> <p>Technician said they use a cable and software to reset it. </p> <p>What cable software is this abd is it attainable to make settibgs changes internally. </p> <p>Not worried to brick the gear as its been through hell and back. </p>

<p>hahaha. it stops running, we look under like for certain it will be a simple plug that fell out and just like that we fixed the car and were on our way.</p>

<p>I didnt say it doesnt lock. the flash locks. I just want to disable the lock. its just a nuisance for me. love the yongnuo flashes where I just twist and go.</p> <p>SU4 is old school for me. CLS is very limiting as well. ttl off camera flash is bad unless u go cable. and thats not even a consideration in my field. I could go ttl with my 622n, and I have for 2 full weddings and it sucks at best. only manual power for OCF. </p> <p>ill have to open it and see what I can find. if Ill find anything.</p> <p>seinfeld made a joke about how when the car breaks down, we lift the hood and look under like well find something evident for the cause like a big on/off switch. haha</p>

<p>hey Norbert</p> <p>when shooting weddings under stress you cant believe how fast you need to work and turning the head to bounce up when youre shooting vertical is very time consuming even if for a half second delay. I lost shots before because of that. I will not shoot with the head straight on ever. </p> <p><br />~~~what do you need the wobbling head for?~~<br> what do you mean? my poist is the fact that its not as stiff to move up and down and if I flick the head, it will fall down. not enough friction. I dont think the lock button has anything to do with the friction of the head. </p> <p>I use 6 yongnuo 622n slaves for off camera flashes I use for the dance floor or family formals. no ttl cord for years now. last time I used a cord was with my sb28/f5 era.</p> <p>the 14-24 for sports? what sports? I shot with tele if I need to shoot athletes.</p>

<p>Thanks for the reply. no modifier on the flash. just out of wear I guess. ill have to open the head and see whats going on there. </p>

<p>I have an SB700/800/900 and I also have yongnuo 565/568/560III flashes<br /> I enjoy using the yongnuo flashes when it comes to tilting and turning the head in stressed events because there isnt a lock button. I just love it.</p> <p>anybody know a diy to remove the locking button on the nikon flashes? not worried about opeining the flash as ive replaced the hot foot on the sb800. yes im aware of the electricity shock potential. thank you</p> <p>the other problem im having is specific to the SB700. its not holding tight well when I tilt the head up anywhere above the straight ahead 90º</p> <p>any help appreciated.</p>

<p>Didnt understand where the not safe for women part comes in?</p>

<p>Your options area few<br> 1-repair it in romania. I like u, feel the price is more than it should be. </p> <p>2-take it to another repair place in switzerland and get an estimate. I think theyd be more truthful regarding actual costs. I have a feelibg nikon romania saw ur dire situation and wants to take advantage of it thinking u have no convenient choice</p> <p>3-after u get a proper repair estimate from nikon swiss call us repair places and shop for prices. </p> <p>4-sell it for parts and add some bucks and get a used one. </p> <p>Personally id do number 2 first and if the price is high, id try 3 and if that was high as well, do 4. But hell no would I do 1. Btw u will probably have to goto customs to get an export authrization paper so ehen u bring it back into the country u dont get hitfor customs fees. Make a copy and add a copy to the outside of the box and inside and write export papers( lens for repair only). </p> <p>I went through this with repairing my 28-70 afs. I bought the lens from an ebayer who lied regarding the condition of the motor. Nikon n in my country tried to rape me with their crazy repair price. Nikon us melville would take close to two months and other there quoted me high prices. <br> I saw an article regardin this repair guy in taiwan. Contacted him. Very happy with his work. Not sure he does cameras though. Maybe contact him and ask. Doesnt cost anything. <br> I sent it to nrc i. Taiwan. To him and back in 3 weeks. Price to repair was very fair. Couldnt be happier. </p> <p><a href="/nikon-camera-forum/00caj0">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00caj0</a></p> <p>thats me</p>

<p>I think human skill/error is the problem here not the gear.</p>

<p>Yes i have that issue with my vr1 i dinged the focus ring (carrying it off right shoulder it just knocked into a table at a wedding) and its not round and a bit warped. When i close focus it wil have a hard time refocusing the next time so i have to move the focus ring and then it will work again. Ill have to send it to my repair guy NRC in taiwan. the zoom ring also seems stiff but was like this from the get go. Even when new. Has dampness on it. The afs motor has full time override control so u can grab the focus anytime to fine tune. Your lens obviously has impact damage. </p>

<p>Btw, who quoted u $650? Just curious. </p>

<p>The lens u have can be bought used for 800 bucks so i dont think its worth repairing or selling</p> <p>consider looking at the tokina 16-28 2.8 the tokina 17-35 f4 or the new tamron 15-30 2.8 VC which as of now seems to be at least on par of the nikon 14-24 2.8 <br /> Head over to dpreview and see their side by side review. Very impressIve looking lens</p>

<p>Im positive without a doubt the repair will cost more than a used version on ebay. If youre looking ,consider getting the 28-80 2.8 which was better. I had the one u have, the 28-80 and i now have the nikon 28-70. Which is superior by a bit of the 3. Many of the nikon swm motors are dying though and repair will be around $600</p>

<p>Just out of curiosity.. Ur style of shooting needs more buffer space than what the d750 can do? Have u tried it on a shoot and were disappointed or simply would like more just in case u need it in the future? Looking at a video I noticed faster cards do affect how fast it recycles the buffer. What memory cards are u using?</p>

<p>You can get a used d800 with less than 10k clicks for $1500<br> So if i was shooting what u do, id definitely go with that. <br> I shoot weddings so no need for many mp. High iso is way more important to me. </p>

<p>Keep all. Great for portrait studio work. Get some cheap 603ii slaves and a 50x70 brolly softbox from ebay and u got an excellent setup for rim lighting kicker main and fill. Got pissed when my 28 stopped working. Did ao many weddings with it. Great for off camera fill for the dance floor</p>

<p>I had the 1.4 ais I had the 1.4d (stolen) and I now own the 1.8d. I have shot with the 1.8g but its af for me is too slow. Others might say its ok but for me its not enough. Its half the speed of the 1.8d<br> <a href="http://youtu.be/YVHvbUUQL9Q">http://youtu.be/YVHvbUUQL9Q</a><br> i also cant bring myself to buy that lens because of the build. Plastic filter thread cheap hood. No thank you. I cane from the 1.4 AIS and D so the 1.8d is level down and the 1.8g is another level. Thats me though. Still many prople are happy with it. <br> If i didnt have anything now, id probably wait till february to see if theres any news by sigma of an art lens. Tamron is rumored to release two primes and im hoping one is an 85. Ill toss my 1.8d and get either. <br> And if there wasnt any new lens released and i needed an 85, id go with a used 85 1.8d again. Because of the af speed. Its critical to me. I used d3/d3s/d600</p>

<p>Yongnuo 568 or the 565<br> shanny have a killer flash for nikon. Check flashhavoc.com</p> <p>i have the nissin and the sb700. Great flashes but if youre low on money the above two will do the job for less. The shanny has a lot of features for a low price. </p>

<p>Tamron is going to be releasing the 15-30mm 2.8 VC in two weeks. $1000 and specs that show this one is a performer. Mtf is better than the the 14-24 AFS. </p> <p>if filters are your thing then it may not be for you. Tgat said there are many who purchased the 14-24 because of the IQ and compromised on using a filer. Mtf is speced better than the 14-24 and tamron themselves said they will surpass (not beat) the legendary 14-24. Something im anxious to see if its true. </p> <p>A review will be in a short while. U might consider waiting then deciding. There are also many that use a fotodio filter holder and use those large square filters. Cumberso e buts its a work around for top notch IQ and using filters. I most certainly am getting one. I had this uncertainty on which uwa to get and basically none fitted my bil regarding price performace features. It was a push pull situation. Cheers. </p>

<p>Yes I use lens hoods all the time. Not for flare but for damage as on the dance floor people are dancing and weve gotten elbowed a few times here and there. </p> <p>We shoot photos and video of the couple with the intent of having flare come in and out of the image and if you look around you will see a lot of photographers are using the flare for a creative affect. We shoot a lot in backlit siuations. Fashion photogs do it all the time portrait photogs as well. Lens flare doesnt look like this. We shoot with lens outside the frame. A lot of time where in the shade abd have the bg stand with their backs to the sub but were 30-50 degrees from the aun to our left or right. This isnt something new. Me and photogs i work with shoot like this all the tine. Been shooting backlit portraits since 92 with film. This isnt something complex to ask a camera to do. We expect flare and even welcome it. We just make sure to light the face to match the background exposure. </p>