richard_srienz

And my reference (Kadlubek) dates your Speedex 1950, and it should be a copy of the Agfa Isolette I with an Anastigmat 4.5/85. But that's simple, if it has an uncoupled rangefinder, it's a copy of the Isolette III, if it has no rangefinder it's a copy of a Isolette I.

Here's a good link to a repair page (Isolette and Compur shutter):

http://www.cix.co.uk/~rgivan/repair.html

Hope this helps.

I didn't read exactly, but maybe I can also help with the total shots

indicator. It works on my GA645 like that:

Press in the exposure compensation button (+/-) and turn the selecting dial from OFF to ISO. While pressing in the button, the total shots indicator in the LCD will show you the total number of shots that have been taken. It will count the number in units off 100.

In my LCD this looks like this:

055 00

the two zeros on the end stay always the same.

Maybe I could help. Richard.

I don't know if I can help, but with my GA 645 (not Zi) switching to silent mode is as follows:

While pressing in the self-timer button, turn the selecting dial from OFF to ISO. The OFF sign is displayed in the LCD for a few seconds and the buzzer will turn off. Same procedure to turn it on again.

Try to get a manual for your GA645Zi from Fuji. Here in Switzerland they are very kind and I got a manual for my GS645 prof., also purchased used. Richard.

Sorry -- Michel le mandat

I didn't read exactly. I agree full with your post. Richard.

I have a Bessa II with a Skopar, and yes, you can get very decent quality results. But I think you should go better with a Fuji MF Rangefinder if you want constant high quality. Or even better a Mamiya 7. As you say, the problem is the front standard. The next problem is the film flatness. The small rangefinder.

If you want a folder, I would prefer a simple one, like an Agfa Isolette II/III (with the Color Solinar = Tessar type) with uncoupled RF. Or maybe a Voigtlaender Perkeo II (very, very small) with the Color Skopar. You can have a lot of fun with these. But for daily work I would not use them.

I disagree with michel le mandat, I think Heliar, Skopar, Lanthar, Tessar are better the a Novar, Agnar or Apotar. The Solinar is a very good Tessar clone.

Richard

Yes, there is a difference. The meter is not important. The big difference is the Tessar. They are good lenses too. But the Planar is a lot better wide open. The Tessar is good at f/11 or f/16. Contrast and sharpness are much better with the Planar if you use large aperture.

If you 'have the use of it', use the Rollie with the Planar of your friend and if you see a good one sometimes, then buy it.

You will never - really never see a difference on the monitor.

If you scan a 35 mm negative you get a file in the size between 10 Megabyte to 30 Megabyte. If you scan a 6x6 negative, it's much more. And now you want to post this picture. Nobody really posts pictures in this size, it will be resized to 20, 30 ... 100 Kilobyte. This is a factor of 1:1000 or maybe only 1:100 - believe me, you loose so much information, you never see a difference.

Richard Srienz

Craig your pictures are good and your site also. I can only give you one tip: first try to correct brightness and contrast with the histogramm, you dont loose pixel information there but you do if you correct brightness and contrast. I've got this tip from a professional and it works good for me. Just press <Ctrl-L> and you get the histogram dialog.

Good work.

Richard