richard_srienz

...and of course with the Summicron at 3 m on the bad camera. This was an example only.

 

I do not say it's not possible that Konica has problems with the Hexar RF. But talking about 0.07 mm as Jack did or maybe 0.1 mm - I would believe this. But 1 mm is to much in my eyes. There must be a mistake. The Hexar would be unusable with a difference of 1 mm. Wide open it would not be possible to focus with any lens to infinity.

Bob, but that is the same. If you have your focal plane one mm behind where it should be, you can simulate this on a correct working camera if you turn the distance on a Summicron 50mm from 3 m to 1.5 m. If you do this, the inner part of the lens moves (not exact) 1 mm foreward. You should get the same picture as with a bad working camera with the focal plane 1 mm to far behind.

Bob, thank you for your explanation, my English - specially technical English - is absolute poor. But I think we do not talk about front lens focussing here. The lenses I have for my M4-P or Hexar RF are completly moved forward/backward by turning the distance ring. So the rear lens is moved exactly the same way as the front lens.

 

"...your example would be to choose a subject and focus, then change the distance reading on the barrel by 5% using the distance scale."

No, no, this was not what I thought. I think of moving the complete lens backward/forward for 1.1 mm - done with the distance ring.

 

Do I see something wrong here ????

 

Oliver, thank you for the link, it's good to read really well founded stuff.

Sorry to say this, but I really think, nobody here USES a camera. I do not know the article but have read here of 1.1 mm difference in the back focus of a Leica M and a Hexar RF. Anyone who is using a camera, knows what 1.1 mm difference really are. Take your hot loved Leica with a 50mm, and set the distance to 3 m (or 10 feet). Now turn the lens until you have 1.1 mm difference. You will get either infinity in the one direction or 1.5 m (or 5 feet) in the other direction.

 

And now please explain how to make resolution tests with this differences. Do they measure bokeh??? With a difference of 1.1 mm the camera is absolute unusable. If anyone would say there can be tolerances of 0.1 mm or maybe 0.2 mm (and this is bad, very bad), I would believe it, but think about 1.1 mm. This is simply stupid.

 

I use both, a M4-P and a Hexar RF. Sold my M6 TTL for the Hexar and I never had problems. Use it with Leica and Voigtlaender lenses and the 50 mm Hexanon.

Kelly, you are absolute right. It's more than absurd. With 1 mm distance difference the Hexar would be unusable.

 

Oh my god, I really have poor eyesight, I always thought my pictures are sharp. Or I have the luck, and my pressure plate is also out of whack 1 mm - poor Konica production tolerances, of course - so I can work with this really bad camera.

Reto, as I said, use a filter to protect the lens and watch the people around you - this should suffice as BPD. It's not necessary to use the underwater housing for your camera. And I would take along a wide angle lens too. And have fun...

...should be "buy from" not sell - sorry.

John, great price. Do you sell directly from the thief, or is there a fence in between? Just kidding, good luck.

Reto, try Bürkliplatz, Quaibrücke und Bellevue. If it's sunny, I use Fuji Astia 100, otherwise NPH 400. Be careful, you can be sprayed over and over with beer (my problem last year), use a filter in front of the lens.

"poor compared with Leica" - I think Allen must be kidding. I use 2 Leica M and got a Hexar RF kit few month ago, and use it more and more. The 50mm Hexanon is excellent, the camera's fit & finish is excellent. I never had problems with the rangefinder or with Leica glass on the Hexar.

I use one and fully agree with Jay.

Trevor, the Leica IIIG is the absolute last top model of the Leica thread mount rangefinders and very pricy. I bought a near mint IIIf with f3.5/5cm Elmar in January for £550 here in Zuerich, and believe me, this is not a cheap city.

But as user I think, your first idea of a Bessa R and an Leica Elmar is a good one. You get a very good rangefinder camera with an excellent viewfinder. A Leica IIIc or IIIf has a tiny viewfinder. And a Leica IIIg with a better viewfinder is very expensive.

Best is to go into the shop, play with the cameras and decide then.

Trevor, first, a Leica IIIc or IIIf and the original f3.5/50 Elmar should be below £650. Second, if you want 'simular results to a Leica III / Elmar 5cm f3.5', you need an Elmar and you cannot compare this lens with an excellent, modern lens like the Heliar.

 

You can find a lot of information here: http://www.cameraquest.com/voig101.htm

and here:

http://www.cameraquest.com/classics.htm

 

Good luck!

Frank, I don't know the Metz CT 45, but I have the CT 60, and if I use a diffusor in auto mode the flash meters the light and automatically emits the necessary amount of light - without resetting iso or aperture. BUT - the covered distance will be reduced, simply because the flash has only a specified amount of power. In this case I would set the aperture on my flash from (for example) f8 to f4 and use f4 on my camera also. So I get back the distance.

Frank, if you use an automatic flash and you say to your flash that you use a film with iso 100, the flash will emit the amount of light needed for iso 100 film. If you turn the dial on your flash to iso 25, the flash knows you use a film that is two stops less sensitive and will add power to make up for the correct exposure.

Frank you turn the iso dial in the wrong direction. If you need 2.5 stops more power, you have to set the dial to iso 18 (between 25 and 12).

Sebastian, I collect folders and use them from time to time. I have a Iskra I, it's a modified copy of the Agfa Super Isolette. If you have one in good working order, this folder is very usable with a good lens (I think it's a Tessar type). But it is also a heavy folder and sturdy build. I had mine (though very good condition) overhauled and never had problems with overlapping frames. The lens has the trait of a Tessar, a little soft wide open, but sharp at f8 to f16. I don't like the EV coupled setting of aperture and shutter, and I don't like the weight, so I don't use it often. There a better (and sometimes cheaper also) folder on the market. If you see one, buy a cheap roll of film and test it first, and don't forget to check rangefinder, shutter, lens, bellows and film guide!

http://www.micro-tools.com/

Ben, I have two M's and a Hexar Kit also. I love the Hexar RF and the Hexanon is an excellent lens. I would also name the Hexar RF a real M7 body. It's fast to operate, quiet and sturdy.

Also what Roger said ...

Cynthia, for a Rolleiflex 2.8 C in 9+ condition I would expect to pay USD 400 to 500. But I am sitting in Switzerland. Check everything very carefully, and maybe you can shoot a roll of film before you buy it. Wonderful cameras. Good luck...

Sorry, should be "...never had a focusing problem"

I use my Hexar with Konica, VC and Leica lenses from 21 to 90 mm and never had a focusing problems.

Albano, you had a lot of luck! You can find a lot of info about Rollei TLRs including manuals here

 

http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/cameras.html

 

Do yourself a favor and don't put it on the shelf. It is a wonderful piece of German craft and you should use it if it's in working condition. The Schneider Xenotar is a very good lens. Try it!

My big mistake was always to think a newer, better lens and a newer better camera will make me to a better photographer. And then I had a lot of equipment but didn't use it really. Because there was a better lens in the shop in the meantime, and I knew, my pictures would be phantastic then.

 

I had the luck to have a good friend. He gave me an old TLR, a tripod and a few rolls of film and sent me out to photograph an old fountain. And when I came back, he showed all the mistakes I made to me. And sent me out to the fountain again, and again ...

 

Since that time I used a lot of cameras, mostly TLRs, 35mm rangefinders, and sometimes I have a lot of fun with old and cheap folders. Try to find the limits of your equipment, and if you found it, you will know that you are good enough for another piece.

 

Take a tripod, a camera, film and go out ...

 

Hope this helps