richard_srienz

I only have a Perkeo I and a Perkeo II so here's the difference:

 

Perkeo II has additional automatic frame spacing (red window with Perkeo I) and has an additional frame counter.

 

Both folders are the smallest package you can get in medium format. You NEED a lens shade. The Color Skopar is excellent. You have to live without a rangefinder. I never heard of a Perkeo or Bessa 66 with the Heliar from the Bessa II.

 

Look for a Zeiss Ikon Mess-Ikonta also (uncoupled rangefinder)

Peter, there is something wrong with your flash connector. I don't have a SCA 356 flash system for my GX (I use a Metz CT-60 at the PC connector), but if I mount a simple flash on the hot shoe, it works without problems. Is your battery ok?

You need a Leica for this?

"...in the green scale...", I enjoy my strange English myself, pardon it please.

Dimitry, all F-type Rollei cameras go in the green scale from 2 to 60 seconds. But this is always bulb. If you set the aperture to f3.5, you can set the shutter from 2 seconds (green) over 1 second to 1/500 without changing the aperture. If you set the aperture to f3.5 and go from 2 seconds (green range) to 4 seconds, you should feel the resistance and the aperture should change to f4. And so on as I wrote before. So at 30 seconds you should have f11, and the possible aperture range is only f11 to f22. So if you set your aperture to f22, you can set the shutter from 1/500 second to 60 seconds without changing the aperture. There is no switch to enable or disable this behavier. I have a 2.8 F and two 3.5 F (a type 2 and a type 3, serials 2234*** and 2251***) and the behavier is the same on all cameras. Take your Rollei to the repair shop.

Dimitry, this is not correct. It is coupled in the green range only (bulb). So up to two seconds nothing should move, if you switch to 4 seconds, you should get f4, if you switch to 8 seconds, you should get f5.6 and so on. I have a 3.5F Xenotar type 3.

To open: press the shutter release.

To close: first close the front door (you see the red markings for your thumb and your index finger on the shutter, simply push the shutter backwards), then push in the combi plunger.

Hope this helps.

Faraz, I had a Ikoflex Favorit some years ago and if your Ikoflex is a Favorit also, maybe you do not reset the film counter correct. I hope I remember correctly, here it goes:

 

The Ikoflex Favorit features a film start sensor to start the film counter. Avoid removing the film before the 12th shoot - the camera has a very special film transport lock. Under this circumstances you have to unlock the film transport by pressing the pin on the right side of the film window and the upper film reel on the right end at the same time. With the camera open you have to simulate a complete film now, this means transport, shutter release, transport, shutter release and so on until you passed the 12th picture. Now the film transport dial rotates freely and the film transport is unlocked.

Now you can load a roll of film.

 

This is also the only possibility to carefully check shutter, aperture and lens if you want to buy this camera, if the film transport is unlocked, you cannot cock the shutter!

 

I hope this helps.

"The folding hood for the GX is also different that the ones on the older 2.8F and 3.5F". The folding hood on the GX is practically the same as on the Rolleicord Vb and all those hoods are interchangeable. I use an old 2.8F hood on my GX.

 

Based on my experience I would say the Planar on the GX is not exactly the same as on the 2.8F Planar. It's not only the HFT coating, the lens is better at f2.8 and f4, and has a flatter field curvature.

Harry a question, have you talked with a serviceman about your stiff shutter release? The difference between my Fs and the GX is there, but not very much.

Simply yes, the lens is better. The older 2.8 lenses are all prone to flare, the f3.5 Planars and Xenotars are a litte better here. Flare is very well controlled with the HFT coated lens. I use a GX for two years now and own three other Rolleiflex F type TLRs. A 2.8F and two 3.5F. The GX lens is better wide open also, especially the corners, and the meter is very good.

Sadly the classic feeling has gone with the GX and I miss the self timer. But it's a great user camera, I repeat a GREAT user camera. The Rolleifix works perfect, but I cannot tell if the prism and the Rolleikin fits the FX/GX.

David, this is correct. I also have a 3.5F type 2 and the film spool knobs on this model do not stay out. This is correct.

 

I have a 3.5F type 3 also and this knobs stay out without turning them until I push them back in.

I would rate the HTF coated 2.8/80mm Planar (Rolleiflex GX/FX) first. Only a little behind the other Xenotars and Planars. Up to f5.6 the Xenars and Tessars are clearly behind. BUT - the difference (Planar/Xenotar/3.5/2.8) is so small that I would only look at the condition of the lens and the camera.

I also use a M-Hexanon 50mm (and for a short time used a M-Hexanon 28mm) on my M6 and my M4-P and it works perfect. Never had problems with the mount.

"...engineering details on the outer casting, the flip up finder and the magnifier, they are all inferior"

 

Adrian, are you sure you had a Rolleiflex GX or was it a Ricoh Diacord? You talk about the a stylish modifications on the GX. The only technical modifications: no automatic film start sensoring, no self timer, the selenium meter changed to a TTL metering system. The screen changed. I think the lens is not exacly the same as the old 2.8 Planar, beside the HFT coating. The lens is better wide open and not so prone to flare. The body is the same. The focussing mechanism is the same. The film advance and shutter cocking is the same. The finder is the same finder as the flip up finder on the Rolleicord Vb. The GX is heavier than the 2.8F.

 

Oh, I forgot - the color of the shutter times changed from red to black and the aperture setting has click stops now. You are right, the camera is inferior now.

PS: my "bum" Leica M6 was purchased new 1995.

Oliver, if there are only a few spots it's not a big problem but you are better (a lot better) with a new Voigtlaender (3.5/28 or 1.9/28). I tried a Rokkor with spots and it was very prone to flare and the contrast was low. I paid EUR 270 for the Rokkor, it was not worth the money. Maybe you have the chance to try it. But I think also if in mint condition, the Rokkor would still be a class behind the VC lenses. If you want to try one, I have a Rokkor 28mm to sell. Contact me if you are interested.

I also have a GX, a 3.5F and a 2.8F. Yes, the shutter release of the GX is more stiff but not very much. What you feel is the meter switch. Did you buy it new or is it a used one?

 

I agree this camera has not the wonderful classic feeling of a 3.5F or a 2.8F, but I don't really see a lowering in quality, I only miss the self timer. I never had a problem with fuzzy edges. The different feeling is the same if you compare a Leica M3 with a Leica M6 or M7.

 

On the other side you get a top lens, a very bright screen, you get a very good exposure meter and TTL flash metering. For me the biggest surprise was the difference between the old 2.8F Planar and the new HFT Planar. No problems with flare, contrasty, sharp - for me this lens is the best standard lens for medium format on the market.

I have a GA645, without 'i', and it is an excellent camera. Look here: http://www.dantestella.com/technical/ga645.html

Yes + 1!

 

"According to Konica service NONE of the Hexar RFs will properly focus a Leica M lens."

 

It seems I have a defective one, because my Hexar works with Leica, Konica & Voigtlaender lenses without a problem. Maybe I should have the camera adjusted?

Harry, the 2,8 GX is delivered with a bright screen. It's clearly brighter than the original screen of the 3.5F.

And you are right, the screens for the 6008 are the same.

All four TLRs you listed have Tessars or Tessar type lenses. So in proper condition they should give you nearly equal results. The Rollei Magic I is nice but it has an exposure automatic and it is not possible to set shutter time and aperture manually. The Rolleiflexes are better build compared to the Yashica. I would select for condition between the Rolleiflexes and the Yashica D.

First ask yourself if a rangefinder fits to your style of photography.

If you don't know, you can buy a cheap rangefinder like a Canon QL-17 or a Minolta Hi-Matic 7sII on E* (the great auction site) for less than EUR 100 and try it. If you like it, keep it, otherwise you can sell it on E*.

 

Second, Douglas is right, keep one FM2.

 

You can buy a Bessa R or R2, but personally I think you are better with a used Leica M (2 to 6). Prices are low in the moment and you can sell a Leica without a big loss. You can't do this with a Bessa. And with a Leica you can use the huge range of M mount or M39 thread mount lenses from Leica, Voigtlaender, Canon, Nikon, Minolta, ...

Go in a shop and handle this kind of cameras.

If you want to learn it and don't need this camera you can start with the book "Rollei - Technical Report", Claus Prochnow. If you want to shoot - read Al's post.

Ray, your Rolleicord Vb has uses bayonet 1. I don't understand your second question, the Rolleicord Vb has a removable finder so remove the finder first and pull back and lift the frame with the screen to clean the mirror. This is very simple.

Yes, the GX has the same cable release socket in the shutter release button.