richard_srienz

Peter, I hope I remember right. Before you cock the self timer, the M/X lever should be in X position. This is a problem of the Copal MXV shutter. Then you can cock the shutter, cock the self timer and fire with a few seconds delay. The shutter can only break if the M/X lever is in M position.

Barry, I have a GA645 and it uses a simple hood with 52mm thread. Why shouldn't the hood of your Zi work? I think the Zi has a zoom range from 55-90mm or so, so the hood should fit a 55mm focal length lens. Am I missing something?

You can try Foto Baeren Optik, Loewenstrasse 57 near the main railway

station also, and as Sebastian said, Foto-Video Ganz, Rennweg is very

good. Personally I don't like Koch Optik, I find them arrogant. I

wish you nice days here in Switzerland.

Adrian, yes, this is a 3.5F! My 3.5F has 2251*** and no coupled shutter. But if I set aperture to f3.5 and turn the shutter to slower speeds, at 2 seconds the aperture begins to turn with the shutter, but I think this is the end of the metering range. I don't know exactly.

Todd, are you sure? My 3.5F has no coupled shutter and aperture. Adrian, are you sure it is a 3.5F?

No big problem. I think you only lost your first picture. Next time just wind the crank until it stops. Congratulations to your excellent choice, the 2.8F is a wonderful camera. Good luck.

Sandra, the "artsy" look of Holga photos results in uncontrolled light leaks, heavy distortion, cheap lens and a missing quality control. If you want to make good, controlled "artsy" photos, try either a TLR like a Rolleiflex, Minolta Autocord, Yashicamat or a postwar folder camera. You get a better lens and can control result. And you have the chance to learn photography from the basics. Most of these cameras use film type 120.

Excellent lens for the value. Never had a Leica 28mm and see no need.

Use nearly the whole Voigtlaender LTM lens line and I am happy with

this decision.

Michael, I have the same problem using Canon LTM lenses (f1,4/50 and

f1.8/50), one Zeiss Sonnar 50mm with LTM, Voigtlaender LTM lenses and

use a Leica IIIf, a Bessa R, and a M4-P and a M6. And my Leica Elmar

4/90 is also a few degrees beyond 12 o'clock, but not on the Bessa R,

only on the IIIf. The Canon bodys, P, 7 and VI-T (I'm collector also)

are the worst - but with Canon lenses, Voigtlaenders are fine on

Canon bodies.

But I never had a problems with the focus - not for this reason.

Pete, check if there is any kind of encryption used.

Kristian, I use it and it's an excellent lens optically, wide open

also. Build quality is the same as C/N/M. Try it.

Jeff, I own this lens in a chrome version. I cannot compare it with

the Leica 135/2.8 Elmarit, but find this lens very good. You can also

look here "http://www.cameraquest.com/ltmlens.htm".

I don't know the price for the Hexanon, but if you look for the best

value for money, take the Voigtlander Ultron. It's an excellent lens.

I would also vote for the Voigtlander 90/3.5. I use it with my M and

find it a stunning lens. It's a modern lens.

John, both lenses are excellent optically. The Canon (Gerrys

response) is optically very good, but behind both Voigtlander lenses.

I have the Ultron f1.7 and the flat Color Skopar f2.5 but prefer the

Ultron f1.7/35. It handles better, the distance ring and the aperture

ring on the Skopar are so small. I do not enlarge beyond 8x10 and

cannot see a difference up to this size. If you take a Voigtlander

lens, you should know, that the black colored show wear very fast.

Garvey, I use folders also, and I have a Franka Solida II and a Solida III with the Radionar. Personally I prefer other lenses at folders - like the Color Solinar (Agfa Super Isolette) or the Color Skopar (Voigtlander Perkeo II). Both are Tessar types. For what I know, the Radionar is a Triplet. But you can get good and sharp results also if you stop down to f8 or more, or use it within it's limits and get some soft landscapes or portraits wide open. You can have a lot of fun with folders like this, but use a lens shade.

I think, for using folders, it's most important that the film plane and the lens board are parallel and that the lens board is sturdy. Then you can get good results with triplets also. Again, use a lens shade.

The Radionars I have are f2.9/80mm also, in Prontor SVS shutters, and do not close down past f22.

...and I forgot, the Photographic Lens Manual and Directory,

first edition C.B. Neblette, 1959, Morgan and Morgan shows the f/3.5

Ennagon to be a triplet.

Chuck, your Franka Solida II was build in six variations from 1955 to 1960. The top model had uncoupled rangefinder and uncoupled exposure meter and a Schneider Xenar f3.5/75mm lens. One model had two viewfinders (4x4 and 6x6). I have a Solida II with a Isconar lens and a Solida III with Schneider Radionar lens. Both are good performers stopped down to f8 or more. I like the Solidas, they are simple, rugged, light and used with respect and within their limits you can get nice results.

Color (T)ageslicht = daylight, Color (K)unstlicht = Tungsten.

Thanks rob, great work!

Kelvin, enjoy. I love and use folders also but I think Andrew is right, those three element lenses perform best at distant shots. I have a Super Ikonta III 531/16 with the 3.5/75 Novar but prefer my Voigtlander Perkeo II with a Skopar or my big love Agfa Super Isolette with the Color Solinar. These lenses are Tessar types and perform - used with sun shade only - excellent. Have fun and enjoy.

Richard - the Bessa T has no build in viewfinder, only a rangefinder.

So you have to use additional viewfinders for every lens you want to

use. I have not used the Bessa T myself, but I use a Bessa R. It's

nearly the same camera but with a build in viewfinder. In fit and

finish it's behind the Leica M4-P I have, but for the price it's a

great value. And you can use all the modern Cosina-Voigtlander lenses

beside the LTM oldies. And these lenses are excellent. I have the

4/25, the 1.7/35, the 1.5/50 and the 2.5/75 of this line.

On the other side, if you want a more compact package, a lllf is a

good idea. Fit and finish is excellent - it's Leica. But film handling

is very strange and slow, and the viewfinder is smaller also. As

shooter you should prefer a Bessa. If you don't have problems with an

additional viewfinder, the T could be a good idea, but I didn't like

it. But the retro look is nice...

Kevin, take something with the Heliar or with the Skopar, forget the Voigtar. For me the best little folders from Voigtlaender are the Bessa II - very expensive in good condition, or the Perkeo. If you want something very small and don't need a metered rangefinder, take the Perkeo or the Bessa 66. And if you take Zeiss not Voigtlaender, try to get something with a Tessar lens, like an Ikonta, or better Super Ikonta. The Novar is - same as the Voigtar - a three elements lens. Can give good results but you have to stop down to 11 or 16. The Tessar type lenses are more useable, but also soft wide open.

 

But most important, check everything very exactly and give it a CLA. And then, use it with respect, within their limits, always with a lens shade und you will have a lot of fun. Something like a Perkeo or a Bessa 66 is wonderful, I would love to find a modern medium format of this size. Good luck.

Gene, I think what you want is to set the date and/or time. I have a GA645, this should be the same.

Date: First set the selecting dial to "P" (or "A" or "M"), then press the DATA button once/twice ... until you see year, month and day at the LCD display. Make the year number blink by pressing the AF button. Set the year with the up/down dial. Then press AF button again to modify the month and do the same with the day. Now press DATA again and you can change the time in the same way. Hope this helps.

Richard, many of these old shutters have a second, stronger spring for the shortest time (1/500 sec). You feel the stronger resistance if you change the speed from 1/250 to 1/500. I have made the experience that these shutters work with nearly no vibration up to 1/250 sec, but 1/500 gives strong vibrations.

Sorry Mike, I cannot give you an answer, but please, Pete, explain "a modest A4/300dpi CCD sensor translates to 2700dpi in a 35mm filmscanner"!