richard_srienz

Thank you Andrew, thank you Ellis. But I don't think the S2 is fast enough, it makes around two pictures a second. Therefore my question about releasing it with a photo sensor. But I will try, digital film is cheap, and the golfer get's a little bit more experience.

Maybe you can help me. I want to shoot a golfer while playing and

want to use my Fuji S2pro. Any ideas how I can shoot just in the

moment the club hits the ball. Is it possible to release the S2 with

a photo sensor?

I also love folders, but the only folder I found that could rival the quality of a Rolleiflex with Tessar is the Agfa Super Isolette. I think it is the Ansco Super Speedex in US. This is a heavy, sturdy folder with an excellent Solinar lens, coupled rangefinder and Rolleiflex Automat like film start sensoring. I think the reason for the excellent performance of this folder is that it has no front cell focussing like other folders, instead the whole lens is moved in or out in a barrel. Combined with the coupled rangefinder and automatic film spacing this folder is really fast to operate. A copy of this folder is the Russian Iskra.

Sorry Patric, my oldest Rolleiflex is a 1949 Automat.

Thomas, you can look at Foto Ganz, Rennweg 26, 8001 Zuerich or Foto Baeren, Loewenstrasse 57, 8001 Zuerich. I don't know if they are especially good with Zeiss and/or Contax, I use them for Leica and Nikon. And both have a lot of used equipment.

Frank, the slowest shutter setting is 1 second on all Rolleiflex TLRs. You can use bulb for longer times.

 

All Rolleiflex TLRs have a self timer, only the GX and the FX don't.

No, the screen is to small.

The Rolleiflex GX uses the same screen as the Rollei 600x SLRs.

Good choice, wonderful camera. The switch has to be over the flash symbol not over the bulb symbol. You can use the manual of the Rolleiflex F, you find it here and the E3 is nearly the same:

 

http://www.matthes.com/Rollei/Manuals/TLR_F/Coll-c.htm

 

Good luck with your camera.

I can't help with the Vaskar, but the Color Skopar on both, the Perkeo I and the Perkeo II use 32 mm push on filter.

Funny to read. I use Leica because until 1998 it was the only rugged body to fit a lot of lenses with LTM and M bayonet. I select lenses for their trait and not for their name. So I have only three Leica lenses, but a lot of Canons (love the f1.5/50 Sonnar copy), Nikons, Minoltas, Voigtlaenders, Konicas and a few Russians also. Today I prefer the more automated Konica body, it's simply faster to work with.

Norman, sorry to tell you but so are the prices here. I do it myself (E6, C41 and B&W) and only very rarely once ore twice a year I use Foto Ganz (Rennweg) or Bärenoptik (Löwenstrasse). Prices are 10 to 15 CHF for development only. Hope this helps.

Sorry, forgot to add: if you don't feel more resistance with a cocked shutter if you change the speed from 1/60 to 1/30 and all the shutter times work correctly, only the linkage to the meter is not set correctly.

Michael, try the following: set the aperture to f22 and try to set the shutter speed to 4 or more seconds. Next set the shutter to 1/60, cock it, and try to set the shutter to 1/30. If you feel more resistance as normal, the shutter and the linkage to the meter is not serviced correctly. If it's not your job don't try to fix this yourself.

 

Normally, if you set the aperture to f3.5 and set the shutter from 2 seconds to 4 seconds, the aperture moves to f4, if you set the shutter to 8 seconds, the aperture moves to f5.6. And so on...

 

The price is very good, if everything else is working correctly.

I have a Rolleicord Vb with the Xenar and a Rolleiflex MX with a Tessar. In your situation I would only select for condition. Both lenses are excellent stopped down to f8. My Xenar is a tiny bit more contrasty, my Tessar is a bit better in the corners at f4 and f5.6. At f8 both lenses are nearly the same. Be sure to get clean, unscratched glass, add a lens hood and enjoy. Good luck.

Nice idea, Roger, but this shows only the better photographer and not the better tool. And I know your are better with a selfmade pinhole than I with the most expensive tool.

Roger, I have a Mamiya 6 (no mf) now for 7 years and never had problems with the film transport. To be fair, I don't think I shoot more than 150 rolls of 120 a year with this camera. Never 220. But in AE mode the camera is so constantly underexposing, that I have my exposure correction dial nearly fixed at +1.5. Great camera, great lenses though. But use my Rolleiflex GX more.

I have got your mail, James. I have a 2.8F and two 3.5F (type 2 and 3). All three feel a little bit different if I rotate the shutter speed dial, two have good to feel click-stops, one 3.5F has not so clear defined click-stops. But maybe this camera should have a cleaning inside. But - there are no differences, neither with cocked shutter nor with released shutter. The resistance is the same, the whole range from 1 second to 1/500. I feel a little bit more resistance if I change into the green range (bulb). I would not really worry about the resistance if it's not very clear to feel. Maybe there's a little bit dirt inside and this disappears if you use it somewhile. Hope this helps and - pardon my English, please. Contact me if you need more information.

I never had problems to select 1/500 sec after cocking the shutter with one of my Fs. I think the older shutters had problems with this. And it's no problem to check the shutter speed or the film transport if the camera is empty.

 

Congratulations, you've got a great camera. Check everything carefully and spend your Rolleiflex a CLA if it's necessary, and it will serve you many, many years. Good luck.

I want to add, I fully agree with Andrew Yue. I have a Perkeo II, a Bessa II (with Heliar), a Zeiss Super Ikonta III and an Agfa Super Isolette, and of all folders I had, the Agfa Super Isolette with the excellent Color Solinar was performance wise the best and the most constant camera of all.

It depends. They can perform on par if the folder is in perfect working condition. If the lens is free of haze, scratches, cleaning marks. If you have perfect lightning conditions (older lenses tend to flare - single coated). If you stop down to f11. If the shutter does not move when you release it. If the rangefinder works perfect....

 

I love folders and use some from time to time (Perkeo, Bessa II, Super Isolette). So to get excellent results constantly, get a modern rangefinder.

Mark, I am proud owner of two 3.5F, a 2.8F and a GX. And I also agree that the GX is missing the wonderful classic feeling of the F-line Rolleiflexes. But it's simply the best user. It's a sturdy camera with excellent glass, and the lens is better wide open and not so prone to flare as the 2.8F. The 3.5 Fs are better in this respect (flare). I think the FX is simply a GX with slight cosmetic modifications.

I'd prefer the Hexar RF. I have two M's and a Hexar and the Hexar is the best camera for the price. And I never had problems with focussing Leica or VC lenses. No experience with the Minolta CLE.

Harvey is absolute right. I have two 3.5F, one with Xenotar and one with Planar, there is no difference in practice. I prefer the f3.5 models to the f2.8 models because they are not so prone to flare. A Rolleiflex with a f3.5 Xenotar is a wonderful machine, but check everything carefully. Look through the lens, check all shutter times, buy a cheap roll of film and check the film transport. The lens board should be parallel to the film plane, check it at infinity and while moving the distance to one meter. Everything should run smooth!

In good working condition it's an excellent camera with an excellent lens and (as user) I would only rate the 2.8 GX higher

Thank you for the mail Glenn, but I cannot identify this hood. Never saw a hood like this.

Glenn, the only information you give is "it is a probably a 6x6 hood", "it is no Rolleiflex or Mamiya hood". That's not very much to identify it.