jamesgysen

<p>Hopefully this will be easily answered by someone and I can get a little piece of mind. Here are the details:<br>

1. Middle of a portrait session (had already shot approx 45 images) with <strong>40D</strong> (current firmware) & 2x off-camera flash. Fresh batteries, non-tethered, all going well.<br>

2. <strong>Lexar Pro 400x</strong>, 8GB CF (UDMA) - was already 1/4 full however has been formatted (always in camera) within the last week. Just some earlier photo's sitting on there.<br>

3. Put the camera down for five minutes to adjust light stands (so it went to sleep), when I tried to resume shooting (I 'wake it up' with the shutter button) a message flashed on the back saying something in the ways of <strong>"THE CURRENT CF CARD IS NOT FORMATTED"</strong> and to please format the card. NO error message #.<br>

4. After a small aneurism, I turned the camera off, checked all connections/batteries/CF slot pins etc, turned it back on and the same message appeared. Did this all a second time and everything came back to life magically as if nothing had happened.</p>

<p>All gear has been well maintained, clean dry and the like. I managed to retrieve all photo's with no corruption and even shot a few more test frames to check (no issues). Has anyone experienced the same issue? and, Is this the beginning of the end for either my CF card or the camera?</p>

<p>Your input is greatly appreciated.<br>

Regards, James</p>

<p> </p>

<p>You could have gone a hundred different ways but you have what you have. Use it, have fun and learn until one day when you may outgrow the equipment and have to make more changes.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>My immediate guess is lens flare. The shooting direction is right for it if you look at the tree's shadows, and the highlight shape is oval. A look at the original un-cropped photo would be the only true way to confirm IMO if you can post it. </p>

 

<p>Mid-morning fog from a recent walk. Great photos everyone and a Happy Thanksgiving to our American folks.</p><div></div>

<p>Yes, ON photography. I did a search and found several references regarding how good photos are supposed to make an emotional impact on the viewer, however I have found little insight into how a photographers personal emotion impacts the outcome of their photography. To me it seems obvious that there has to be a correlation. </p>

<p>Yesterday I was doing a review of my work to see where I've been and where I'm going and did note a substantial shift in my finished photos this year. It's very hard for me to to describe (I'm not the most eloquent with my thoughts and emotions!) but subjects and themes, not to mention the finished product are darker, more bleak, etc. Now this has been a tough year for our family admittedly - employment, medical, financial issues and losses; so I kind of expected my photography to change regardless.</p>

<p>So, out of all that, what are your views? How is your photography influenced by your mood or outlook? -or- Do you allow your photography to be affected?</p>

<p>If nothing else, thank you for reading. <br>

Regards, James.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I personally have a very difficult time aligning what I do with "creating beautiful photographic artwork" as you put it. I am learning to see things differently each day with the more I study, learn and do. Yes I believe the craft can be learned but everyones journey and personal outcome will be unique.</p>

<p>Not a pro here and haven't hit the slopes in some time but have you tried one of those chest rigs from Cotton Carrier? (I think thats the name) Looks pretty sturdy to me.</p>

<p>Welcome to p.net Tim. You can certainly upload your photos into your gallery here on the site and request critiques in the <a href="../photo-critique-forum/">Critique Forum</a> (found at the top under the Gallery tab). The upload instructions and limits are all listed there. If you like the site and subscribe, p.net gives you much broader options for uploads and multiple critiques.</p>

<p>That said, sometimes I have found that I need more feedback than I may have received here; two suggestions 1) look to someone locally who might have a good eye and who could offer some more immediate feedback (clubs, friends, etc) or 2) look through the photo.net galleries (i.e top photos of the week/month) find someone who's work you enjoy and has the same sort of subjects as you and send them a private message/email. Ask for some feedback on your gallery or a photo. Could be hit or miss but whats the harm in asking, many here are quite open to respond however don't necessarily have time for the critique forum.</p>

<p>Best of luck either way. It also may help to let people know where about in the world you are. Allot of people hang out on p.net and one helpful soul may live just around the corner.</p>

<p>Regards, James.</p>

<p>Irvin, just so you know, the moderators don't enjoy multiple posts on the same subject.</p>

<p>Stephen's method is acceptable of course for many applications. May I ask though, what put you down the path towards expo discs versus other methods/devices? When I weighed cost vs results (and ease of use) I personally ended up buying a grey card.</p>

<p>If an expo disc is what is in your future, I would only recommend the portrait specific disc if that is going to be your main goal (not quite what your list describes)</p>

<p>Regards, James</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>"I took your photo , now you owe me 10 dollars…"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>:) My favourite. Actually ran into someone like this in Rome.</p>

<div></div>

<p>Only your absolute best photos. Be extremely critical, not emotional about the selection; if that means 10-15 images out of 1000, so be it. If it means very few images you have some additional shooting to do.</p>

<p>Mathew, you could always hitch a ride with Sarah's friends.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Valencia Spain for Las Fallas!</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I had to <a href="http://oddstuffmagazine.com/pictures-from-las-fallas-festival-2012.html">look that one up</a> Nathan. Wow, that would be something.</p>

<p>Aside from potentially using some reflector fill on the faces in the second and last images, I believe most of the images are natural light. Glare, highlights and catchlights (for what you can see in the web images) seem consistent with the shadows from the natural lighting vs what you may see with fill flash or strobes.</p>

<p>The author has a contact email on her <em>About</em> page, I would highly suggest you just contact her and ask her about her process, lighting and equipment. Most pros I have dealt with are very forthcoming and helpful.</p>

<p>Others may have ideas about the focal length/lens; I'm not too good with that sort of thing. (50mm?)</p>

<p>Regards, James</p>

 

<p>Regarding <em>Quick - </em>I was just watching this <a href="

video tutorial</a> from sports and event photographer Jeff Cable who touts Photo Mechanics Pro. It gives a good example of sorting program use and potential requirements for events. Look to the 1:45:10 mark where he starts to show the program and his workflow. The rest of the video is pretty interesting as well. Apparently this is the #1 program used by photographers at Olympics were speed matters most.</p>

<p>As for an attached device that does this sort of thing automatically - personally that would depend on the interface and set up. If I had to spend just as much time entering and sorting keywords/preferences into one device as I would afterwards in post, no I would keep doing the latter. Besides, everyone has their own nuance and wording when it comes to labelling, sorting, batching, etc.<br>

Regards, James</p>

<p>James, you may not have the time to read it for this project however all of your questions (which I have gone through as well) are totally answered in "Light, Science, Magic". Well worth the investment and read when you have the time.</p>

<p>Those highlights and shadows can be some of the most interesting parts of a metallic/mirrored subjects photo. Assuming you have experience shooting using white cards or reflectors as flags or GOBOs, one technique I've seen is to use a large piece of black or white foamcore (or suitable material), cut a lens size opening at the proper hight and shoot through it. You will mask yourself and the tripod and have a much smaller and less noticeable 'gear' highlight to worry about. It may take some tweaking but can yield very acceptable results.</p>

<p>*Edit* alas Matt beat me to it.</p>

<p>Jeff - I was once looking at the same for a medical specialist (Operating Room for publication if I remember correctly) Forensics would be fascinating.<br>

Harry - way to narrow it down ;)</p>

<p>Whether its a location, client or special event, everyone probably has that one 'ultimate' photography experience sitting in the back of their mind. OR maybe you've been lucky and already had this dream come true! (tell it anyways)</p>

<p>Since it's hard to narrow down favourites sometimes or you just cannot decide (like me) give us your top one or two on the list. To keep it fun, let $$ NOT be a barrier for this one.</p>

<p>Myself, I thought it was simply a NG photo tour like <a href="http://www.nationalgeographicexpeditions.com/expeditions/explorers-jet-tour/detail">this one here</a> (which is just WOW) but since I have volunteered lately with a Special Olympics sports team, my ultimate would be full credentials for the Summer and/or Winter Olympics (and maybe a place to stay while I'm there.</p>

<p>Regards, James</p>

<p>Lets not rule out extension tubes as a way to up the magnification without buying a new macro lens (focal length). These could also make your lens kit more flexible and give you the option of different magnifications for different subjects.<br>

As an option Anita, you can get an idea of what your final focal length would be as follows. <br>

<strong>Additional Magnification = (Extension Tube Length)/(Lens Focal Length)</strong></p>

<p>Not sure what exact species but it did quack so I'm going with duck.</p><div></div>

<p>Nathan, I hope you are enjoying the Kayak, they can be great fun. Last week on a reservoir this gentleman was putting on a skills show. Able to turn on a dime in the middle of a bunch of anchored boats. At least it looked impressive to a non sailor like myself.</p><div></div>

<p>Thank you Peter. Don't know what I was expecting but the buffer numbers don't seem bad for 4.5fpm. Buying (or already having) a couple of decent 16MB SD cards would work for my needs at least, and be cheaper than the CF equivalent. </p>

<p>@Bob - (not to hijack the thread) Do you happen to have any indication yet of the buffer size for the 6D? Didn't see that in the specs.</p>

<p>The SD cards most probably were used for the 6D due to physical size (also most likely why there isn't dual slots). It is a fairly compact full frame for Canon when compared to the 5Dx and even a bit smaller to Nikons most recent entry level full frame.</p>