drjoder

<p>Thanks, Michael. Original idea, Rick! I spent less than five minutes on it--some cropping, then a preset in Nik/Google Silver Efex Pro with some minor tinkering.</p><div></div>

<p>David, I have been very, very happy with Nik (now Google) Silver Efex Pro. I use it as a plugin with Photoshop, but I think it works with Elements and Lightroom as well. Don't think it works stand alone. You'll be surprised at what you can do with it--even film grain emulations! Google around for some reviews or look at their website at the tutorials.</p>

<p>Welcome, Tom! I have learned a whole lot on this site over the years--from the forums (lots of experience there) and the Learning tab. I have also found that the SEARCH box is an invaluable tool to find answers to questions/topics that interest me. BTW, I am also in the Rocky Mnt region (Boulder area) as are several other members. We are in an awesome area for landscape/nature/wildlife (the mountains) as well as urban/street (Denver). You'll have to travel a bit for your diving photography, though, unless you are in to lakes and ponds. Have fun on the journey! DanJ</p>

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<p>Are you in the U.S.? I don't know if this applied to your situation , but there are some public properties that require permits for commercial photography. Here in Boulder, Colorado, the City Open Space comes to mind in that regard--potentially very scenic places for shooting outdoor products! If you are using models, sets or props, you might need a permit if on Park Service, Forest Service, or BLM lands. This website talks about the permit issue a bit: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/photo-permits/</p>

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<p>I like Nik/Google Silver Efex Pro: https://www.google.com/nikcollection/products/silver-efex-pro/<br> It is pretty much the gold standard for such conversions. The problem is that it looks like it only works with PSE 9 and above. Can you not upgrade to a newer version of PSE?<br> If not, onOne is stand alone: http://www.on1.com/products/bw9/<br> Or...Topaz is another great option, but it is NOT stand alone. You need a host program. Luckily, it looks like it will work with PSE6: https://support.topazlabs.com/hc/en-us/articles/200133303-Photoshop-non-CC-and-Photoshop-Elements<br> Sorry, if you have to cut and paste the links. Can't seem to get them to show up.</p> <p> </p>

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<p>I am going to re-emphasize something Wouter brought up--Why not consider the 70-300? It is fairly inexpensive and light, with good image quality. It gives you a 450mm focal length equivalent which isn't too darn bad. Disadvantage is in low light situations, but there is always the tripod and/or higher ISO solution to that (unless the subject is moving, like indoor sports). You say you don't like hauling around a lot of weight, so maybe take a closer look at this option. I loved it with my previous Nikon APS-C camera.</p>

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<p>If you could show us the image, that might help. Yes, better lighting the next time around would be good...but, it occurred to me that maybe you could possibly just embrace the effect? It seems like high key and even overexposed portraits/weddings are the fashion these days. Of course, that might not fit your vision. Yes, cloning would be quite tedious but, with patience, might eventually work after multiple tries and experimentation.</p>

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<p>Generally, I'd rather be out with the camera in the field than at my desk post-processing. I liked the image, though, and thought a monochrome treatment was the ticket (obviously to make the image look a lot more like my general style!). Fundamentally, though, I didn't think the color in the original image was important enough to be kept as a compositional element. I spent about ten minutes on it--ran it through Silver Efex Pro and tried to bring out the writing on the gravestone using those Control Point doohickeys (adjusting brightness, contrast, and structure). I also used radial blur to enhance the suns rays a bit. I'm looking forward to what others came up with--especially a color version!</p><div></div>

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<p>Chaitan, you mention that the auto focus was moving in and out so you switched to manual focus. I am wondering if you were inside the minimum focus distance for your lens (which, I think, might be about 10 inches with your 18-55). If you were inside that range, even manual focus won't help. Did it look in focus with manual focus? Just as a general tip (and along with all the f-stop suggestions above), one of the best ways to get sharper images is to use a tripod and mirror lock-up or exposure delay mode with a remote release.</p>

<p>Jim, you are hilarious! Happy New Year and see you around town (though likely not at the dispensary). Chau!</p>

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