marc_batters

<p>Maybe not 'all' of your favorite 220 films are unavailable. 220 b&w is gone..not color.<br /> Try East Coast Photo, as they show about 11 different emulsions in stock, in 220 color.<br /> When dealing with any film retailer...ask about expiration dates, and cold storage practices.<br /> MF Color Print Film:<br /> http://www.eastcoastphoto.com/nav/listing.asp?catid=130&hid=125<br /> MF Color Slide Film:<br /> http://www.eastcoastphoto.com/nav/listing.asp?catid=131&hid=126</p>

<p>Amir,<br /> Try looking at a thread from May, earlier this year.<br /> http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00aNLW</p>

<p>If the 'powers to be' here at P-Net would develop a separate Hasselblad forum,<br>

(with a couple of subsets for the various models), this would allow you and others to<br>

easily find information from the vast library of Hasselblad information available here.</p>

<p>It's not your fault that you were unable to easily find this information...it just<br>

seems that P-Net won't develop a separate Hasselblad forum.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>You might try putting the neck of a dark T-shirt around your neck...essentially, putting a T-shirt on, up-side down. The rest of the T-shirt you wear around your neck like a bunched-up scarf. When you need to focus a shot in extreme sun, you pull the waist of this shirt over your head and camera similar to a dark cloth in LF photography. If necessary, use a child's or woman's size shirt or cut excess off the waist end of the shirt. This is most useful, or easier to manage, when shooting from a tripod.</p>

<p>Mamiya and others made a folding shroud that attaches to the top of the WLF (slides over the erect WLF)...which may work for you. Below are a few I found on the big auction site. Sorry, they all seem to be USA sellers.</p>

<p>Generic hood for TLR's:<br /> 290733954432<br /> 380403573697<br /> 190638438715<br /> Binocular hood from Rollei:<br /> 261007243963</p>

<p>John,<br /> Nice job! On a minor note...the film on the take-up spool should go under the spool. <br /> The yellow face of the backing paper would not show from the angle depicted. <br /> Instead, the black underside would show.<br /> I know...what a 'Cad' I am, commenting on your CAD skills! :-)</p>

<p>If USA, Pacific Northwest, try Citizens Photo, or Blue Moon Camera, in Portland, OR. <br>

http://www.citizensphoto.com/index.html?page=film_e6<br>

http://www.bluemooncamera.com/send_film.php</p>

<p>I'll bet you have a battery drain problem. Go get a couple of new batteries. <br /> If a new, fresh battery puts your camera back into operation, a service tech can address the issue with/during a CLA.<br /> When you are done shooting, turn the shutter collar to the off/lock position, and then remove the battery from the camera.</p>

<p>With a volt meter, a fresh, new, unused battery should register about 6.4v+ volts.<br /> If your existing battery registers only 6-6.1v...it's basically dead.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Try reading through attached post from JAN-2011:<br>

http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00XzDK</p>

<p>A little closer to your home, why not give 'Blue Moon Camera & Machine,' in Portland, OR a call.<br>

http://www.bluemooncamera.com/Camera_Repair_Service.php<br>

Or, try 'Alpine Camera,' in The City of Spokane Valley, WA.<br>

http://www.alpinecamera.com/repair_info.htm</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>For filters, and regular round rubber lens hoods, there are Bay-1/-to screw thread adapters.<br /> Using one of these adapters, along with step-up rings (if necessary), you can use your existing<br /> round screw-on filters from other cameras, and also, screw-on regular lens hoods.</p>

<p>Any noticeable vignetting in the view finder doesn't usually become an issue until you<br /> exceed about a 52mm lens hood, and even then, it's manageable.<br /> With the quick-on/quick-off nature of the Bay-1 mount (and especially when your camera<br /> is tripod mounted), the whole stack of adapter-filter(s)-hood, can be removed for composition,<br /> then with a 1/3 twist, quickly re-installed for image capture.</p>

<p>It's cheaper to buy the majority of your filters to fit your largest lens filter diameter,<br /> then use step-up rings from your smaller lenses, to fit the larger filters size.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Your knobs are probably examples used in later production years.<br /> Use the aftermarket, generic lens hoods. No problem.<br /> $100 USD...you didn't get hurt. <br /> However, you are now learning that bits and pieces cost more, then if the case had been included with the camera.<br>

Sellers know that they can get more money selling pieces, instead of the whole.<br /> $50 bucks would be on the high side for a case.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>I can't address your loose barrel directly, and with the numerous available RZ lenses on the market...why should you? <br /> I would move on...leave this lens alone. My two cents.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Your question will probably see more traffic if posted in the 'Digital Darkroom.'</p>

 

<p>Aside from info in Dave's, <em>click, </em>above:</p>

<p>The difference in the 'improved electronics' you mention, is more specific to the RZ IId's ease<br /> of interfacing the 'IId" body, with [some] digital backs, (hence the 'd'), should your budget allow in the future.</p>

<p>Frame orientation bars adjust, or are shown in the view finder [identically] on all three RZ bodies,<br /> automatically, as the rotating film back is rotated. (Polaroid, #405, 'pack-film' backs...do not rotate).</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Maybe Harry P. from B&H will chime-in...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thank you for the heads-up, <strong>Henry. </strong>I apologize for forgetting your name.<br /> Darned if I hadn't previously read or heard about the USPS issue with batteries...but had forgotten that, too.<br /> Marc</p>

<p>Bill & Arthur, Good points. <br>

I didn't know that B&H won't use USPS for Canada shipping destinations.<br>

Maybe Harry P. from B&H will chime-in, and give us the lowdown.<br>

Marc</p>

<p>Of the large East Coast retailers, as in NY City, NY...B&H Photo. <br /> I don't think I have ever waited more then 12-16 hours, weekdays, for a response to my inquires. <br /> And, they have responded to 'All' of my inquiries, each and every one of them.<br /> I've had about four inquiries in the past five years with B&H. Great customer service.</p>

<p>From another NY City retailer, I've never gotten a response. Not a single one. <br /> I just tried for the third (and last), time last month. Nothing. <br /> Third time is a charm (?), well...not with that company.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>...but Ctrl+v worked.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Okay, with Firefox, I can use the Ctrl+v, also. However, the right click, copy-cut n'paste...is still a no-go. <br /> In Explorer, I was able to get right-click-copy to work onetime...but now, is not working.</p>

<p>No other sites are giving me any problems with this issue (different hoops to jump through)...just P-Net.<br /> (Presently, I haven't tested this issue in Chrome...'even more hoops').</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Oops...I forgot to mention...PC w/Windows 7.</p>

<p>Noticed today...unable to use any form of 'block quoting' on P-Net. <br /> Copy & Paste of text, along with Block Quotes is still working fine for me on other web sites. <br /> Here on P-Net, with Firefox, it just doesn't work...no other explanation. In Explorer, 'error with script' window appears.<br /> Is it just me (always a possibility), or...something else?<br /> Marc</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"You don't mention the camera..."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Community> Forums> Medium Format> <strong>Mamiya 7 and 6</strong>> NPC Polaroid Proback...in the thread header at top of page.</p>

<p>OK, sorry, I don't have specific cable information for you. <br>

Most of the Quantum packs I've seen are 6v, and of course, the Vivitar 283/285's are 6v.<br>

Good luck on gathering all of the adapters/cables or direct cords you want, and the charger.<br>

Marc</p>

<p>Yes. A couple of questions first, though. <br /> Do you already have the Quantum battery pack, and, if not, how handy are you at DIY projects? <br /> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quantum-Battery-1-Power-Cable-w-Module-for-Vivitar-dedicated-flashes-/261002605324?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item3cc4f7b30c<br /> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C20YNS/ref=s9_bbs_gw_d0_g23_ir02?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-3&pf_rd_r=0PXQTKDQGETHN0378EXB&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=470938811&pf_rd_i=507846<br /><br /></p>

<p>Go for the largest space you can afford. A minimum of 2500-3000 sq feet is a nice number, for starters. <br /> IMHO, some of the key considerations, aside from floor space are, (and in this order): <br /> 1) Ceiling height - 12-14 feet. If your existing space doesn't offer at least 11 feet, I would move.<br /> 2) Adequate electrical service entry/electrical outlets - 110v & 220v <br /> 3) Storage area or room for equip, props, costumes, wardrobe, etc...<br /> 4) Access to some natural light (more the better)<br /> 5) Adequate and reliable HVAC<br /> Having a front office/reception area, two restrooms, w/separate changing rooms,<br /> a rear loading-dock-type area, or a garage door...that would be icing on the cake.<br /> Parking?</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Pengtao, If everyone here knew where in the world you live, it would be easier to suggest rental resources.<br>

Secondly, I feel you have made a wise decision in continuing your MF research. Also, try to seek-out camera clubs in your area.</p>

<p>Aside from looking on the *Bay, you could check in periodically with Pacific Rim Camera. <br>

A quick search in their >Catalog >Flash >Vivitar >section, doesn't yield what you're looking for...today. Tomorrow(?).</p>

<p>http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/</p>

<p> </p>