marc_batters

<blockquote>

<p>But when I push it in, it comes out to that point again. Is this common? <br /> Perhaps the dark slide seals need to be replace?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>No, this not common.<br>

Barring a foreign substance in the dark slide grooves, or a complete lack of seals;<br>

ie...dark slide is loose and falling out, then maybe the light seals do need replacing.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>I am a big fan of 'OP/Tech' Camera Straps, if you are willing to go with a third-party strap.<br /> It's been said many times before that camera manufacturers OEM straps, do more to<br /> advertise their brand around your neck, than these same OEM straps do for comfort.<br /> OP/Tech makes a great product, and at a fair price. It might be worth a try for you.<br /> Contact OP/Tech to confirm attachment options for your specific camera model.</p>

<p>http://optechusa.com/super-pro-strap.html</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Ah...Dan got the OP/Tech suggestion in while I was searching and typing.</p>

<p>Lab dilemma...it's quite the 'coin toss' of options, isn't it?<br>

My thoughts have always leaned more toward develop only, with minimal expense preview, ie...contact prints.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<blockquote>

<p>...but seem to have assigned this lens shade to Homer Simpson.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>HaHaHa...Yep, the Mamiya lens shades are very poorly designed, (my opinion).<br /> I don't mess with any of them. As mentioned above, just use some stepping rings and use common round/collapsible rubber lens shades, and filters with common thickness rims.<br /> If you don't go much past 52-55mm, there is only minimal shadowing/vignetting at the bottom of the image in the viewfinder. Totally manageable.</p>

<p>http://cthree.my/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/mamiya-c3-vintage-camera-classics.jpg<br /> /> />

<p>Having a senior moment, Harry? The URL link I provided works just fine.<br /> You seem to have looked at my P-Net bio page...then said WTF? Well...right back at ya, Harry!<br /> http://www.displays2go.com/place-card-holders-HP.html</p>

<p>Not really a very good solution. Fixed 90 degree angle, unable to easily modify or change reflective angle.<br /> Other types of place card holders are much easier to use, and take much less space in your kit.<br>

Bend some stiff wire...make your own.<br /> http://www.displays2go.com/place-card-holders-HP.html</p>

<blockquote>

<p>...I am not sure about the battery in transmitter (they are not rechargeable).</p>

</blockquote>

<p>It might be a good troubleshooting idea to establish the transmitter's battery condition first.</p>

<p>Do your flashes fire when the test button on the transmitter is depressed?<br /> Most transmitters allow battery replacement by splitting the case of the transmitter...usually via<br /> a couple of small screws. Transmitter batteries are often similar to [button cell] watch batteries.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<blockquote>

<p>...I wonder if something like this will work with both flash unite...?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Michele,<br /> Yep...just like the example I mentioned earlier.<br /> Marc</p>

<p>If your flashes do not have a PC Sync cord socket, you will need a<br /> PC Sync cord-to-Flash Shoe adapter, (pictured).<br /> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/598245-REG/Paramount_PMRHSFPC_PMRHSFPC_Sync_Cord.html<br /> There are many sellers of these on the auction site.</p>

<p>Also, inexpensive wireless triggers can be used, (a transmitter, and a receiver).<br /> Just ensure the transmitter accepts the sync cord from the camera.<br /> Most receivers incorporate a common hot shoe for the flash to slide into.<br /> http://www.ebay.com/itm/PT-04-Wireless-Hot-Shoe-Flash-Trigger-Receiver-For-Canon-T3i-T2i-1100D-/321036407392?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item4abf42d260</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>The main thing I can think of at the moment...is it possible the (MLU) mirror lock-up socket is not fully retracted on both 110 lenses? Strange coincidence, yes...but maybe?<br /> Try screwing a cable release into the MLU socket on the lens. Then, unscrewing/removing the cable release a couple of times...ensuring the socket retracts back [flush] into the lens each time.</p>

<p>Your profile doesn't say where in Washington, (state?) you are located.<br /> Give 'Alpine Camera' a call, in The City of Spokane Valley, WA.<br /> (509) 892-6645<br /> http://www.alpinecamera.com/</p>

<p>Yes, Fuji instant pack film does fit in the Polaroid labeled back. The fit is, and always has been a bit tight.<br>

Polaroid film packs had 8 shots...the Fuji packs have 10 shots per pack.<br>

Take a view of any number of YouTube videos regarding loading a Polaroid (Fuji-Roid back).<br>

Loading is very simple...don't over complicate the process!</p>

<p>Marc<br>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5AvgeWbJNDs&playnext=1&list=PL31D7FB3C531C03F1&feature=results_video</p>

<p>Rob,<br /> I'm not promoting the camera company in the links, but I have purchased from him in the recent past. <br /> No issues...No problems. His shipments arrive in the USA (west coast), from Japan in about 6-8 days.<br /> You might try contacting him regarding combined shipping costs on a couple lenses.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>127mm:<br /> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Mamiya-KL-127mm-f-3-5-127-mm-f3-5-L-Lens-RB-67-RB67-/230890958703?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item35c22c6f6f<br /> 180mm:<br /> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Mamiya-KL-180mm-180-mm-f-4-5-f4-5-L-A-Lens-for-RB-/221141400753?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item337d0dfcb1</p>

<p>'New Old Stock' or NOS lenses available today for the RB, were probably last made sometime before the millennium.<br /> NOS lenses can be a great find...if the price is right. Some buyers have experienced problems with fungus developing<br /> in a few NOS lenses, but otherwise, you should be Ok...again, if the price is right.<br /> I wouldn't let the price exceed very far above $200USD, w/shipping, for either lens mentioned. <br>

Around $150USD would be better!</p>

<p>If you have a smaller studio, (spare bedroom in your home, corner in the basement, etc...),<br>

you may find the 250mm a bit too long, limiting many of your portraits to only close-cropped head shots.</p>

<p>Most 250's, even the non APO's, will usually cost more than any of the various 180's.<br>

There are a 'gazillion' 180's out there for the RZ. It's a good lens, popular MF portrait focal length...many were produced.<br>

I think I'd opt for the 180mm, maybe even the soft focus 'portrait' version of the RZ, 180mm.</p>

<p>There is also a RB, 150mm soft focus 'portrait' lens, but they are usually priced higher then the RZ, 180 lenses,<br>

and 150 would be so very close to the 127 you already have.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

 

<p>Pro-S body, w/WLF...$50-$80. Non working, metered prism...$25-$40. <br>

Both backs, w/issues...$25-$30 each. Both lenses, w/issues...$35-$60 each. <br>

Total, as a kit...$130-$170.</p>

<p>Your kit, as described, sounds well used, if not...somewhat neglected/abused.<br>

Sorry...It's not worth very much.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

 

<p>I only know of one version. Maybe someone else will chime in<br /> if other versions of a later AE Prism II, 'automatic exposure' prism exists.</p>

<p>Please...don't confuse AE Prism 'II,' with the non-metered Model '2,' prism.<br /> (Mamiya makes a major [confusing] distinction in their RZ Prisms,<br /> employing both conventional numbers, or Roman numerals).</p>

<p>Check PDF pages 21-22, (actual manual pages 18-19), from an<br /> RZ accessory manual provided by the 'Butkus Manuals Site.'<br /> http://www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_rz_accessories.pdf</p>

<p>Yes, the AE Prism II will function properly on your original Pro RZ body.<br /> The reverse is not true. Original AE Prism won't work on a Pro II body, (unless modified).<br /> PD prism does not provide 'automatic' exposure control.<br /> Note: No modifications are necessary for using the Pro II prism on your original RZ Pro body.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Get yourself something like in the link below.<br>

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PT-04-CN-Wireless-Remote-Radio-Flash-Trigger-Receiver-/320552485819?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item4aa26ac3bb</p>

 

<p>Haven't we seen these exact same pictures before, in another thread?</p>

<p>A bit more information is needed from you.</p>

<p>What is your budget? $5k-$10k USD, or $30k-$50k USD?<br /> Are you looking for new or used equipment?<br /> Some digital backs need to be tethered to a lap-top. What capability is your existing lap-top?<br /> Are you experienced in using a camera with a WLF.<br /> Do you need a camera that affords TTL flash metering?<br /> Is the capability for auto-focus lenses a priority?<br>

You mention 645 and 6 X 7. Have you ruled out 6 X 6?</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I don't want to crop the 6x6 to 645 and lose the real estate...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Then don't crop that small.<br>

If you want the 8 X 10 inch enlargement ratio that 6 X 7 gives...then crop 6 X 6 to about a 6 X 5.5(?) ratio.<br>

A couple of 'Sharpie' marks on your ground glass will guide you within the slightly reduced format.<br>

A great many photographers have successfully submitted slightly cropped 6 X 6 images to editors<br>

for decades; images taken with 6 X 6 TLR's, Hasselblads, Bronicas, etc...<br>

As mentioned, if you're scanning, you can print to any format ratio you want.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>Try looking at some of Steve Sint's tutorials, most of which he has posted here on P-Net.<br /> One or two of the tutorials deals specifically with table top/product lighting solutions.<br /> http://www.setshoptutorials.com/itemlist/user/43-stevesint</p>

<p>The 'Strobist' site is your friend. Fantastic info on singular and multiple strobes/flashes...on and off camera.<br /> http://www.strobistindex.blogspot.com/<br /> At the bottom/right of the Strobist pages, (immediately after all the ads), there is an expandable index area. <br /> You can spend many hours of reading...for free...absorbing all that is offered on this site.</p>

<p>Many individual threads address the questions you ask:<br /> Light stands, remote triggers/sync cords, inexpensive shoe mount flashes vs expensive studio strobes,<br>

types of light modifiers, etc...</p>

<p>Since you are new to the idea of off camera or multiple light sources, I would start<br /> with an inexpensive shoe mount flash and cheap eBay, or Chinese, wireless triggers. <br /> If, down the road, as you gain experience, and possibly acquire more powerful studio strobes/lights,<br /> the extra shoe mount flash units can always be used to light background or as hair lights.</p>

<p>Marc</p>

<p>PhotoNet has a great search function, >upper right hand corner, >top of page.<br /> Typing in...'Mamiya repair, San Francisco'...nets 118 threads.<br /> http://www.photo.net/search/?cx=006577976762569540560%3A1n8vmghdzjw&cof=FORID%3A11&ie=UTF-8&section=all&q=mamiya+camera+repair+san+francisco&filter=0&sa.x=14&sa.y=13</p>

<p>Good Luck! <br /> Finding the shroud panels, magnifier, and lid/top that makes-up the WLF, will be a bit difficult for a Yashica TLR.<br /> The WLF's on these cameras are [mostly] integral to the camera bodies themselves.</p>

<p>Much different then many models offered by other TLR manufactures like Rollei, and Mamiya.<br /> Those cameras have clip-on/clip-off, WLF's, and have other adjunct view finders or prism finders available. <br /> Not so with your Yashica.</p>

<p>Few, if any, parts from the Yashica 44 will work on your 'A,'<br /> That camera is only 2/3's the size of your Yashica 'A.'</p>

<p>You may, (big maybe), find some help from Mark Hama.<br /> He repairs/refurbishes/restores Yashicas, and possibly, he may have some user,<br /> (scratch & dent) parts available.</p>

<p>Often, the easiest, and cheapest parts method for these old TLR's,<br /> is buying another body that has other issues...and cannibalize parts.</p>

<p>In the meantime, you can always make a temporary shroud, or WLF out of black construction paper,<br /> and use inexpensive magnifying glasses, (drug store cheaters).</p>

<p>Marc</p>