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marc_batters

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Posts posted by marc_batters

    Plustek OpticFilm 120 film scanner now available to pre-order

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>A few of the spec's, highlighted from the Plustek site:</p>

    <blockquote>

    <p>...state of the art optical and electronic systems including an 8-element glass lens with 5,300 dpi optical resolution...<br /> Delivering an effective usable Dynamic Range of 4.01...and a theoretically penetrable maximum density of 4.8...</p>

    <p>Therefore the OF120 reaches a level that is only achieved by drum scanners so far.</p>

    <p>The OpticFilm 120 includes patent-pending, adjustable pitch 120mm film holders that ensures flat film for in-focus scans. <br /> Users do not need to cut 3-frame 6x7 120 film strips.<br /> Auto IT8 Calibration® helps color calibrating in 2 minutes and ensures correct colors.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>All too often, advertised scanner spec's never live-up to the manufacturers claims.<br /> I would like to believe the advertised specs, but will wait for the 'pixel-peeping' <br /> experts and equipment reviewers to weigh-in on the actual performance of this scanner.<br /><br /> Performance levels that up until now..."achieved only by drum scanners so far."(?)<br /> Wow! That's quite a boastful statement! The scanner would be worth every penny...If it's true.<br /> If this scanner doesn't live-up to that advertised hype, the company will surely get a severe slamming by the reviewers.<br /><br /> Marc</p>

    Help me figure out the problem with my Yongnuo RF-603

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Flash sync speed of your camera is 1/250th to 1/60th. Okay.<br>

    Flash unit set about 2 feet from subject, but pointed at - bounced off ceiling. Not OK. Re-calculate.<br>

    You need to include the distance the light travels from the flash, to the ceiling, and back to your subject.<br>

    Also, you must consider the light reflecting characteristics of the ceiling coatings.<br>

    What film [speed] are you using?</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

    Hasselblad 6x6 - classic landscape focal lengths

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>For the 'Bay' lenses, (bayonet filter mounts), you will need a bay-mount to screw-mount filter adapter.<br /> Step-up filter adapters (step-up rings), may also be needed. <br /> ie...There may not be any Bay 50's or Bay 60's, directly, in one step to the 77mm size filters. <br /> Could be...a Bay 50 to 62mm, then you would need a 62mm-77mm step-up ring to complete the conversion.<br /> For a lens hood, (when using adapters as explained), you just use conventional 77mm screw-on hoods that match your 77mm filters..</p>

    new to MF film cameras. recommendations pls!

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Using a WLF, 'waist level finder' is not for everyone. Find a shop where you can rent a camera to try first.<br>

    Even if purchasing on the used market, Hasselblads can be an expensive entry into MF...only to<br>

    find out later you don't like the ergonomics of the camera or are unable to master the WLF.</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

    Diopters

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Further suggestions from the links below. <br /> E-mail or call these retailers, as they don't always list their entire inventory online.</p>

    <p>B&H Photo - NYC, NY (new and/or used dept)<br /> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/category/2870/Used_Equipment.html</p>

    <p>Blue Moon Camera & Machine - Portland, OR:<br /> http://www.bluemooncamera.com/inventory.php?menuID=0&catID=100&deptID=178</p>

    <p>KEH Camera - Smyrna, GA:<br /> http://www.keh.com/Camera/format-Medium-Format/system-Mamiya-RZ?s=1&bc=42&bcode=RZ&bco=559&</p>

    <p>Mid West Photo Exchange - Columbus, OH:<br /> http://mpex.com/digital-cameras/used/medium-format/accessories.html</p>

    <p>Pacific Rim Camera - Salem, OR:<br /> http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/</p>

    yashica problem with flash

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>You need to ensure the flash sync switch is firmly/positively in the 'X' position. <br /> 'X' is for electronic flash. 'M' position uses a delayed shutter actuation for use with flash bulbs;<br /> (allows bulbs to reach their full power level before the shutter fires).<br /> The 'X' position for electronic flash units, fires the shutter instantaneously when the trigger is pulled.</p>

    <p>There could be a short, internal to the camera. More likely is a dirty/gummy 'X - M' sync switch.<br /> Or, most commonly...an ill fitting sync cord/bad sync cord. Check/eliminate the easy areas first.</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

    Scanners for Medium Format

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>It appears that in the North American(?) market, the designation is M-1/M-2. <br /> In Europe...and maybe Asia(?), the designation is F-1/F-2.</p>

    <p>Is the bundled software exactly identical between the two scanners? <br /> Contact Microtek representatives in your area of the world directly.</p>

    <p>http://store2.microtek.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=181<br /> http://store2.microtek.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=21&products_id=180</p>

    Mamiya C220 Finder

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Paul,</p>

    <p>All finders will cross over; ie...WLF's, Porrofinders, Chimneys and Prisms.<br /> The only consideration would be in keeping historically, model-specific accuracy.</p>

    <p>Newest 'single action,' C-220'f'-specific WLF. Note, can not be used as a sports finder.<br /> The front panel doesn't open.<br /> http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_c220/mamiya20.jpg</p>

    <p>Standard C-220 WLF. Only the center opens for sports finder operation. <br /> C-330 versions have a main center panel that opens for the 80mm lens,<br /> with a secondary frame that opens wider for the 65mm lens. <br /> Also, the leatherette covering on a true C-220 WLF is a lighter gray, hounds-tooth(?) pattern<br /> that matches the C-220 body leatherette. <br /> C-220'f,' C-330, C-330'f' and C-330's' leatherette is a black 'pebble grain' leatherette.<br /> http://images.craigslist.org/5Nd5G15K43Gb3K93Hac789233bc965eb01b8d.jpg</p>

    <p>C-330 'double action' WLF lacks the Mamiya 'S-M' trademark logo in the center.<br /> Mamiya c330

    <p>A great resource for Mamiya TLR's information is G. Patterson's site.<br /> http://grahampatterson.home.comcast.net/~grahampatterson/grahamp/mfaq/m_faq-6.html#Heading98</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

    <p> </p>

    Most economical off camera approach

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>Sync cord is fine...as long as your lens and/or camera has a PC sync cord socket. Some cameras don't...they only have the hot shoe. However, there is a work around for that, too. A hot shoe - to PC sync cord adapter. A link to an example, below:<br /> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flash-Hot-shoe-to-PC-sync-cord-Adapter-SC-2-FSH-AQ01-/271013540899?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item3f19aa7423<br /> It sounds like you have it all figured out. Have fun...enjoy.</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

    Most economical off camera approach

    in Lighting Equipment

    Posted

    <p>As Starvy says, the cheap Chinese wireless triggers are one way to go. Also, Vivitar made some very dependable optical slaves...model SL-2. You use one flash as a master or the built-in flash on the camera. When the master fires, all of your other flashes coupled with/to these optical slaves will fire simultaneously. Key word being, optical. The slaves must be in line-of-sight with the master, firing flash. Not much of a limitation, it just means you can't put the slaves inside a soft-box, or behind a flag, etc...</p>

    <p>A link to an example. I've no affiliation with the seller.<br /> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vivitar-SL-2-slave-remote-flash-trigger-unit-/230826417394?pt=Camera_Flash_Accessories&hash=item35be539cf2</p>

    Mamiya c220 - screen brightness

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>A crumpled 'outer' bellows on a Mamiya TLR is not the end of the world; (a bit tacky looking),<br /> but underneath the outer bellows that you see, there are (2) two more, independent and separate...inner bellows.<br /> Both inner bellows are square; one for the upper, viewing lens...and another for the lower, taking lens.</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

    Mamiya c220 - screen brightness

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Mamiya C-Series cameras have fairly good screens. Of more importance, is the WLF shroud.</p>

    <p>The older 'double action' type of finder let more stray light hit the focusing screen,<br /> even when the pop-up magnifier is deployed. (There is a nasty gap at the top).<br /> The newer, preferable 'single action' finder shroud basically makes a chimney finder when the pop-up magnifier is deployed.</p>

    <p>It's the same design that Mamiya incorporated in all their subsequent MF camera models w/WLF's,<br /> (645's, RB's, and RZ's - post, late 1970's(?) era).</p>

    <p>Single action finders have a vertical hinge in the middle of both sides. Once you stow the pop-up magnifier (if used),<br /> with the 'single act' of squeezing the sides of the shroud...the WLF automatically collapses.<br /> Examples below.</p>

    <p>Older C-Series 'Double Action' WLF:<br /> http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00a/00a8w0-450389584.jpg<br /> Newer 'Single Action' WLF:<br /> http://www.btinternet.com/~g.a.patterson/mfaq/jpg/330swlf.jpg</p>

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