marc_batters

<p>Ken, my first light meter (which I still have) is a Sekonic Lumi 86. It registers all of the ambient light in the scene you point it at. From the subject to camera distance your pictures depict, it could be you were gathering to much of the bright sky when you metered, pointing the meter slightly upwards.</p>

<p>If you don.t mind the exercise, you could try getting closer to your subject, take a meter reading, then walk back to your camera position and take the picture. Also, you may try shading the front of the meter with your hand, much like the brim of a baseball hat shades your eyes. This will aid in reducing the possibility of the meter registering sky light, instead of light reflecting off the subject.</p>

<p>I hope some of this helps you. For landscape work however, you may wish to invest in a spot meter. I use my spot meter for most of my outside shots, and my flash meter inside. The Lumi 86 is my backup, or when traveling, quick, light, and simple.</p>

<p>Looks like "two" reflectors, one on each side, in front of a north facing window, (northern hemisphere).</p>

<p>Look at the highlight's on each side of his nose.</p>

<p>Ken, pointing your light meter at the subject, or scene, is "reflective" metering. There are basically a couple types of reflective metering; Spot and Average.</p>

<p>"Incident" metering is using a hand held meter, at the subject, and usually with a little white ping-pong ball dome attached. This measures the light "falling" on the subject.</p>

<p>When you mention "your" light meter, you don't say if you're talking about the meter in-camera, or hand held.<br /> More info from you will help.</p>

<p>Frank, try this site. Go to the link, then under equipment, go to "Catalog", then to "Flash", then to "Vivitar"</p>

<p>http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/</p>

<p>Brian, you might try this site.</p>

<p>http://www.camerafilters.com/pages/specialeffect.aspx</p>

<p>I wonder how many times the "B-side" of a 45, out sold the musician's "A-side" choice?</p>

<p>Paige and Plant never thought "Stairway to Heaven" was anything more than a filler on the flip side of the album.</p>

<p>Cole, try this old thread here on P-Net</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/000CdZ</p>

<p>Also, you may find it cheaper to buy a hand held light meter, and shoot in manual mode.</p>

<p>Good luck.</p>

<p>The OP's original statement; "Finding film for vintage cameras"</p>

<p>I don't consider any film "vintage" (or at least the format), when new cameras using that same format are still being manufactured new today, ie 35mm, 120/220, and sheet film.</p>

<p>I believe 35mm will live for many decades to come because there are just way to many cameras out there still being used, and also because of 35mm origins; the movie industry. The emulsions available for 220 may only last a few more years, but 120 and sheet film will last another 20 years, easy. Availability, or choice of emulsions will narrow, leaving us with only the most popular emulsions remaining.</p>

<p>As has been said many times; if you don't use it, you'll lose it. So go out and shoot. I don't own a Holga, but I love the people that do, because they are shooting MF, and that helps to keep the usage of MF alive. I am in my 50's now, and I have no worries that film will out-live me.</p>

<p>Middle to upper middle third of what in-camera crop image will be.</p>

<p>Peter, I agree.<br>

Below is another link that I feel is very appropriate; for those who submit their works for evaluation, as well as those offering a critique.<br>

I am reminded of an Ansel Adams quote:<br>

"There are two people in every photograph; the photographer,and the viewer!"</p>

<ul>

<li>http://instructional1.calstatela.edu/laa/aesthetics_2B.html </li>

</ul>

<p>If you are able to remove the filter from your lens, you might try a product such as "Teflon Multiple Use Lubricant" from DuPont. Search the web, available at the usual home improvement aisle, and big box hardware stores.</p>

<p>Get a few toothpicks out of the cupboard, put three or four drops of lube in a teaspoon, then dip the toothpick into the spoon. Apply a drop of lube from the tip of the toothpick about every [5 mm, or 1/4 inch] around the filter circumference, at the joint where the stationary rear, meets the rotating front. Let it soak-in according to label instructions, then wipe off excess.</p>

<p>Read instructions on any product like this prior to use, ensuring that the product will not chemically etch glass. Teflon Lube products work great on guns, locks, and hinges. Good luck.</p>

<p>A "proactive" approach to this; re-design Photo Net's home page [directory] layout/format.<br /> Are there any file clerk types (librarians, medical office, law clerks) out there, who might be willing to suggest an easier [to follow] "table of contents?"</p>

<p>Also, you may try any of the local civic theaters near you for advice. They rent a good portion of their sets, furniture, and props from companies like those mentioned above. An online search in your area for "prop shop", will probably connect you to a marina, or civil airport though. Try stage props/theater. Just some thoughts. Good Luck.</p>

<p>A faster solution might be to check companies that do store front window displays. Some of these companies even have names in the yellow pages like "Display House", or "Inside the Storefront." Contact some of your larger department stores, ask which "window dressing" company they use, (unless they do their own). Many of these companies will rent out their props. Maybe worth a try.</p>

<p>Duffle bags! Try Army-Navy surplus stores. Or, ask a veteran if they would part with theirs. Then cut the legs off old denim jeans, sew the cuff end closed, use these as sleeves for protecting your equipment inside the bag. Most bags are OD Green, but some are blue, white, or camouflage patterned. Most duffles have a sturdy hand grip on the side, and also one shoulder strap, or two back-pack type straps. The money you save can then be better spent on protecting more important things like cameras, lenses, lights...etc.</p>

 

<p>Graham, would it be easier to cut the ten exposures of 6X7 into two strips of three frames, and two strips of two frames. Cutting the two frame strips on each end of the roll where there is usually a little extra film stock anyway, then cutting the three frame strips in the middle. This would allow for more film in your scanning carriers, thus avoiding the single frame issues. Just a thought.</p>

<p>Another interesting site for finding objects in the sky, relative to "your" location on our planet, is the Interactive Site of Paul Neave. Enter the site via "Flash Earth", pinpoint your location, then go to "Planetarium". <br />Alternating left clicks will lock-unlock scanning motion of the sky (via your mouse) , and also identify the constellations and planets by name (when locked & highlighted). <br />Informational panes in the upper left allow you to input any day or time into the calendar, allowing you to pre-plan viewing of upcoming celestial events, day or night.<br />[Compiler of this response has no connected interest to this free, (and mostly) ad-free site.]</p>

<p>Arpad, You may have better luck finding an answer to your question in the<br>

"video forum". As you say, once you have downloaded your images to your PC,<br>

you now have a PC, or software issue. Good luck.</p>

<p>Gabrielle, time exposures on a RZ only requires a cable attached to the "T" Socket of the lens chosen. The mirror will then lock-up for as long as you want, with minimal battery drain. To make an exposure, (open the shutter) depress the button on the cable. At the end of exposure, (close shutter), depress the shutter button on the camera.</p>

<p>I have tried to find this service on eBay, through eBay, and can't seem to find a link.<br>

Is this service available in the USA version of eBay? <br>

Does it cost a lot to use, or what is the percentage cost? <br>

I too, would like to use this type of service for high value items, which sadly, many camera items are very high priced. Any help with finding the search link for this would be appreciated.</p>

<p>I like the pose. Deliberately posed yes, but yet someway still candid in feel. A moment of the brides day as she is entering this new phase of her life, marriage. As to post production, removal of the window pane mullions improved the image. Now, instead of being inside looking out, she appears to be moving forward, angelic, towards a new begining, with just a brief pause reflecting on a life thus far, over her shoulder behind her. Opening the curtains to a new journey. Any removal of body art, moles or scars should be a mutual decision between the photographer and client. Some of the post production suggestions on this image also blew out more of the fine detail on the brides dress. I have learned from this picture. I will now add a cheap (spring loaded) shower curtain rod, and lace or shear curtains to my prop bag. I like this image, the story the pose can tell. My only gentle critique would be lighting the dress a notch less to better maintain it's detail. A difficult window shot, done well! </p>

<p>I have a 6X4.5 back for my RZ, and I use it mostly for learning to use a new lens, or an unfamiliar film type, (unfamiliar to me). I also use the back at car shows. I will stroll through the group of cars, decide which ones are worth shooting at all, and decide which ones I consider "center stage". worthy of a larger full size image.<br>

My other camera is an old 2&1/4 square Ricohflex, and I have a 35mm insert for that camera that I sometimes used to stretch the budget. Now keep in mind, in neither of these camera's, do I have a reducing mask for the focusing screens. I usually try to think about the composition of my shots, but at times I have had some "happy accidents", when I get the subject a bit off to one side or the other, pre-cropping in the camera if you will. This little used process has been a fairly good learning experience for me.<br>

A conversation years ago with a photographer friend, related his experience of using a 6X4.5 back for shooting his kids grade school class pictures. A 6X6, or 6X7 was his only camera at the time, and by using the smaller back, he saved some money, and since all of the photographers in previous years had used 35mm, everybody was very happy with his images.<br>

It does seem a bit of over-kill, or waste, to have a medium format, and not use it to it's full potential, (image-size-wise), but there are times when I was able to come home with a few more pictures, shot's that I would not have, had I not stretched every penny.<br>

I've often thought of taping four pieces of black thread in a grid, to the top of the focusing screen for better reference, but in the end that might not be a very good idea. Maybe someday I will find an Intensascreen with grids that will be close to the small back proportions, sans finding an actual focusing mask. Really, just not worth it, as I don't use the back that often. Maybe, try slipping a rubber band on your right wrist, as a reminder to compose a smaller shot, when using the 6X4.5 back.</p>