Jump to content

marc_batters

Members
  • Posts

    635
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by marc_batters

  1. <p>Availability for Fuji instant Pack Film is still good, and is still being produced, (3.25 X 4.25 size).<br>

    I really don't find Fuji Pack film to be very expensive. Current price range is .85 cents to $1.70 USD per shot.</p>

    <p>Of the suppliers listed below, only one firm is currently out of color and two are out of black & white.<br /> It appears new supplies/shipments are due-in, JAN 2014.</p>

    <p>Freestyle Photo Supply:<br /> http://www.freestylephoto.biz/66910-Fujicolor-FP-100C-3.25-x-4.25-%28Polaroid-T669-690-Compatible%29<br /> http://www.freestylephoto.biz/02602643-Fujifilm-FP-3000B-Bandamp-W-3.25-x-4.25-Instant-Print-Film-10-Pack</p>

    <p>B&H Photo:<br /> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/18595-USA/Fujifilm_15435626_FP_100C_Professional_Instant_Color.html<br /> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/843361-REG/Fujifilm_15200772_Instant_Black_White.html</p>

    <p>Blue Moon Camera:<br /> http://www.bluemooncamera.com/inventory.php?menuID=4&catID=500&deptID=560</p>

    <p>Adorama Camera:<br /> http://www.adorama.com/FJFP100CN.html<br /> http://www.adorama.com/FJFP3000B.html</p>

    <p>Calumet:<br /> http://www.calumetphoto.com/product/fujifilm-3x4-fp100c-10-exposure-pack/WG0010/<br /> http://www.calumetphoto.com/product/fujifilm-fp-3000b-super-instant-black-white-film-3.25-x-4.25-10-exposures/WG0014/</p>

    <p>Glazer's Camera:<br /> http://www.glazerscamera.com/store/fuji-fp-100c-color-instant-film.html<br /> http://www.glazerscamera.com/store/fp-3000b-3-25x4-25-instant.html</p>

    <p>Midwest Photo Exchange:<br /> http://mpex.com/fuji-fp-100c-color-film-10-sheet-pack-3-25x4-25.html</p>

    <p>Samy's Camera:<br /> http://www.samys.com/p/Film/15435626/FP-100C-Color-Instant-Film-3.25-x-4.25-ISO-100,-10-exposures/3169.html<br /> http://www.samys.com/p/Film/15200772/FP-3000B-Super-Speedy-BW-Instant-Film-3.25-x-4.25-ISO-3200,-10-exposures/3168.html</p>

  2. <p>With Autocord's, pay particular attention to the focus lever. <br /> The hinge for the film back/bottom is located on the front of the camera immediately below the focusing lever. <br /> If the back is opened to load/remove film, and the focusing lever has not been moved to one extreme side or the other,<br /> the act of opening the back will/may bend the focus lever. If this happens a few too many times, the lever breaks off. <br /> An expensive repair...when parts were available. Today...these parts basically don't exist.</p>

    <p>Autocord with broken/missing focus lever: http://theonlinephotographer.typepad.com/.a/6a00df351e888f8834012875f827f7970c-400wi</p>

    <p>Autocord with focus lever at infinity: http://auctions.natcam.com/ebay/bw/bwminautocord6.jpg</p>

  3. <p>A true prism finder with solid, polished glass elements will be much brighter then porro finders using panels of cut mirrors. <br /> Prisms for Mamiya and Rollei TLR's are actually fairly common and available.<br /> Good used equipment can be found at B&H Photo NY, USA; KEH Camera, Georgia USA; Kenmore Camera, Bothell, WA USA.</p>

    <p>Rollei TLR Prisms: http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4099/4826415956_b0b506cd88_z.jpg<br /> Mamiya 'C' Series TLR Prism: http://ebaypics.columbuscameragroup.com/mamiyactl-1348862557-9441.jpg<br /> Mamiya Porro finder-left/Prism finder-right: http://img0105.popscreencdn.com/160114680_mamiya-c330-with-180-mm-lense-and-a-mamiya-c220-with-80-.jpg</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

  4. <p>RZ 67 Pro, 6 X 6 roll film back:<br /> http://www.usedcameraexchange.com/HAM3581/1.JPG</p>

    <p>The 6 X 6 back for the RZ is the only back in the RZ line that accepts either 120 or 220 film via an adjustable pressure plate.<br /> These 6 X 6 backs were only produced during the early days of the original RZ Pro production run. <br /> The backs were mostly for shooting slide film for those that wanted to project the images. 6 X 7 slide projectors were/are very rare and expensive, but 6 X 6 projectors are more numerous.</p>

    <p>Any back in the RZ line, other than 6 X 7, will have 6 X 6 or 645 printed on the top, like the sample link above.<br /> If you wish to shoot multiple frame sizes on the RZ, you have to purchase multiple backs, each back is dedicated to only one frame size; ie...645, 6 X 6, or 6X 7.<br /> In 6 X 7, there are dedicated backs for 120 film, and separate backs dedicated to 220 film.<br>

    However, you can change from 120 to 220 by changing the film insert.<br /> Please remember that only original RZ Pro inserts fit inside an original RZ Pro housing.<br /> RZ Pro II inserts only fit inside Pro II housings. The inserts and/or housings can not be inter mixed between Pro and Pro II.<br /> Also, each size insert must go with the appropriate size housing;<br /> ie...645 insert w/645 housing, 6 X 7 insert w/ 6 X 7 housing, etc...</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

  5. <p>Charles, Norton anti-virus says the link you provided is a fraudulent or known attack web page.</p>

    <p>Since the Sunpak is a 'potato masher' style flash unit, the hot shoe-to-hot shoe adapter won't work,<br>

    unless the adapter also has a PC sync-cord plug.</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

  6. <p>It may be easier, and cheaper, to procure inexpensive 'new' replacement mirror stock,<br>

    rather then cannibalizing from old used equipment.</p>

    <p>From a previous thread here on P-Net.<br>

    http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00bhog<br>

    *Bay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ciro-Flex-Replacement-Mirror-TLR-Model-B-C-D-E-F-/261248992774?<br>

    Seller's *Bay auction-handle: <a title="marty1107" href="http://myworld.ebay.com/marty1107?_trksid=p2047675.l2559"> marty1107</a><br>

    <br>

    Marc<br /></p>

  7. <p>The RZ Pro II, and Pro IId models have a 'fine focusing' knob, adjunct to the primary focusing knob (rt-side).<br /> These 'fine focusing' knobs are to be used sparingly at best and moved slowly/finitely when used, otherwise,<br /> the gears will strip on the fine focusing drive...but the primary focusing gears usually survive this malady.</p>

    <p>From your post, I'm unclear if you are describing a problem with both focusing knobs...or just the fine focusing knob(?).</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

  8. <p>With the images so totally out of focus, as you describe, I doubt it's the positioning of the 120/220 pressure plate.<br>

    If you had mistakenly shot 120 film with the pressure plate in the 220 position, images would be very useable, but not 'tack sharp.' <br>

    My thoughts...the rangefinder is way out of adjustment or likely has become uncoupled.</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

  9. <p>A good source for information is the Orphaned Camera Manuals.org site...'Butkus Manuals.'<br /> Marc</p>

    <p>Part 1 of Pro-TL, PDF manual:<br /> http://www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_645_pro_tl-1.pdf<br /> Part 2 of Pro-TL, PDF Manual - Focusing Screen, top of page 1:<br /> http://www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_645_pro_tl-2.pdf<br /> <br />M645 'Super System Accessories' PDF chart - Page 4 (PDF page 7), has all six (6) Focusing Screens:<br /> http://www.cameramanuals.org/mamiya_pdf/mamiya_645_accessories.pdf</p>

  10. <p>A bay-adapter, 52mm step-up ring, and 52mm round hood...barely makes a shadow on the bottom of the viewing screen. <br /> Totally useable, even up to a 55mm set-up.</p>

    <p>For landscape work, I have multiple step-up rings...all the way to 77mm, (my most common filter size).<br /> I compose the shot I want, then put the 'stack' of rings, filter(s) and hood onto the lens. <br /> I refuse to purchase, maybe a 1/2 dozen or so filters, in every size I need (or want), to fit all my lenses, across all of my different lens sizes. If I purchased complete sets of filters for most of my common lens sizes, I would have about 5 complete or duplicate sets of filters. That's way too spendy for me.</p>

    <p>Addressing UV, Skylight or Haze filters...there are many variables involved. Environmental issues such as fog, smog, altitude or elevation determine the need. The difference between shots taken shortly after sunrise or just before sunset, verses shots taken at high noon can look very different based on the types of filters used.</p>

    <p>For me, it's been a journey of trial-and-error. You will need to try the filters that you purchase. There are many filter manufacturers, with different quality standards. What I mean by that is, a 80A or 80B filter from company 'X' could give you a very different look then the same filter(s) from companies 'Y' or 'Z.'</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

  11. <blockquote>

    <p>My question is, will the step ring fit on the lens while the hood was on?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>No.</p>

    <p>Save some money. Buy the Bay III, to screw thread, adapter ring. Mount the ring on tour taking lens.<br>

    Now, you will have conventional screw-in, filter/hood capabilities, like any other non-bayonet type lens/camera.<br>

    From this point, you can use conventional, threaded step-up rings, to accommodate any size screw-in filter you want to use.<br>

    Lastly, once you have decided on what size you're going to step-up to, purchase an inexpensive ($4-$5), screw-on rubber lens hood in that size.</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

    <p> </p>

  12. <p>I suppose you could start with the sunny-16, 'f-stop' rule. <br /> On a sunny day, start by setting the aperture at f:16, and then bracket shots through the smaller, (next, higher number), apertures; ie...f:16, f:22, f:32, f:45, etc...<br /> Four or five bracketing shots should tell the story. Might not be a bad idea to start at f:11.<br /> Remember to write down the settings used with each frame, so you can compare notes after the film is processed.</p>

    <p>Do you have a hand-held light meter? <br /> That would make comparisons of the finished photos much more informative, by knowing the exact light on the scene when the film was exposed.</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

  13. <blockquote>

    <p>I'm think of getting a used one of these...</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>You're thinking of buying a 'used' lens. A lens that when purchased new, probably cost around $2,000, and is now available for 1/10th that price on the used market. You can't expect anything on the used market to operate 'as new,' especially if you don't have maintenance performed throughout the life of the component.</p>

    <p>I've had about six lenses CLA'd lately and a couple of camera bodies worked on. It's a fact of life when buying new or used equipment. <br /> The last 'floating' lens I had worked on was a 28mm Zuiko for OM. It didn't really cost anymore than other lenses I've had CLA'd.<br /> Buck-up...Get a CLA on your used equipment. It's still far cheaper than buying new!</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

  14. <blockquote>

    <p>What's the difference between this one and the Model II prism for RB67 cameras?</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Actually, there isn't a Model 'II' Prism for the RB...but there is a Model '2' Prism.</p>

    <p>In function, not much difference really. Does your RB prism include a meter?<br /> Mamiya's choice of nomenclature can be confusing, so don't confuse a Model '2' with a Model 'II.'<br /> The Model '2' is an non-metered prism for RB and/or RZ. The Model 'II' is a metered prism for RZ only.</p>

    <p>Apparently, about the time the RZ was introduced, Mamiya chose to go with one mold<br /> for all their subsequent prism housings for both the RB and RZ model lines.</p>

    <p>I'm assuming you have a prism looking something like this example for your RB.<br /> http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/images/155281.jpg</p>

    <p>An example of the Model 2 prism is below.<br /> *Note: This is an example of a RB/RZ Model '2'...not a Model 'II' prism, which is for RZ only.<br /> http://chemicalcameras.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/dsc09963.jpg?w=800</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

  15. <p>Some later models of the RB 67 'Pro-S' and all RB 67 'Pro SD' models can shoot 6X8 (with a special motorized back),<br>

    and 6X7 or 645 backs.</p>

    <p>Yashica made a dual format TLR, the '635' that could shoot 120 or 35mm, (with a 35mm adapter).<br /> Ricohflex also made some dual format TLR'S; one that could shoot 120 and 35mm, and another that could shoot<br /> 120 or 127 film, (again, with adapters/inserts for the smaller formats).</p>

    <p>Different models(?) of Mamiya press cameras could shoot 6X9, 6X7(?), 6X6, and I think 645.</p>

    <p>Also, I know this is a MF thread, but just about any larger size LF sheet-film camera can shoot smaller sizes of sheet-film,<br /> via reducing backs. There are also several different sizes of roll-film backs that can be used on sheet-film cameras;<br /> ie...6X24, 6X17, 6X12, 6X9, 6X7, 6X6, and if a person was so inclined...even 645.</p>

    <p>Marc</p>

×
×
  • Create New...