clive_murray_white

<p>There was mention that this painting was pinned to the wall, this makes me think that it may not be on a stretcher and therefore behaves more like a wall hanging than a painting. Or in other words part of the character of the work is the 3D effects of hanging and shadows caused by the non-flat surface against a flat wall.</p> <p>If this is the case I'd be looking to retain that in my photograph and would start looking at ways to present it as part of the environment it is located in. I'd take it off the wall and light the room so that there is and even spread of light or at least ensure that there isn't a light fall-off in one direction. Take a few test shots to see how the light really falls and work out how much of the room needs to be included in the shot, because I always shoot RAW I wouldn't worry too much if the room was a bit dark to the eye.</p> <p>Replace the picture and fire away! For this kind of work I always use my 45 PC-E everything on manual, live view and timer or remote for firing on the D800. Tonal values etc can be adjusted in Lightroom. Another very handy tool for this kind of job is "perspective" crop in Photoshop.</p>

<p>all fixed, thanks everyone, bracketing accidentally on, all the best, thanks again</p>

<p>I regularly take 2 pictures with my D800 of the same subject within a second or so of each other using aperture priority, the pictures are invariably differently exposed, like this, pic No: 1, 1000 @ f5.00, pic No: 2 120 @ f 5.00. </p> <p>Pic No: 2 was correctly exposed.<br> <br> Any reason for this?</p>

<p>I have both the Voigtlander and the 1.8 G I personally like the character of the Voigtlander better though manual focus makes it more a specialty lens, 1.8 G isn't bad especially used with lens correction in Lightroom, way outside the price range is the Nikkor PC-E 45 it blows them booth away though not as quick.</p>

<p>you could buy a Leica Monochrom Frank - http://petapixel.com/2013/07/22/review-leica-monochrom-is-not-quite-a-black-and-white-decision/</p>

<p>Re: one trick ponies or good for anything else?</p> <p>Aren't all primes one trick ponies very good at doing one thing well, or even very well?</p>

<p>I looked long and hard at these but settled for the Lensbaby alternatives when Kent or was it Andrew suggested their 50mm single optic pretty much does the same thing, I've added the 80mm Edge lens to my kit. Of course with Lensbaby you also get the tilt function as well.</p> <p>I do quite a lot of website work for a wine maker with cellar door sales and a restaurant and have been surprised at how often my Lensbaby stuff has saved the day by turning very ordinary looking scenes into something pretty exciting. Though there is always the danger with these lenses to over do it. </p>

<p>I use a variety of MF lenses on my D800, PC-e 45, Voigtlander 58, Nikon 75-150 and 2 Lensbaby, mainly for landscape and studio work. I never use live view any more for the landscapes and just trust my eye through the very adequate D800 viewfinder, I occasionally take a quick look at the conformation lights, and invariably see that my concept of focus matches Nikon's. My eyesight is poor.</p> <p>For the studio work, all done manual focus, tripod + live view, I felt I had a problem with the not particularly great D800 live view and bought 7" monitor and a whole bunch of Small Rig stuff, creating an outfit about the size of a field camera! it gave me more confidence initially, but I soon realised that it was really a waste of money. </p> <p>I have used manual focus for events, the mind does play some silly games with you but that's about all, I'd say just trust your eye and all will be fine.</p>

<p>thanks Andrew - but I'm still puzzled, everything in manual and the camera ignores it, or at least on the screen, is that right, I'll try what you suggest when I get a mo</p>

<p>I experience something like this regularly with my D800 set on manual. It occurs when I'm taking pictures of objects, tripod + live view + ISO 100 + manual focus + timer.</p> <p>I like this set up because I can "see" what the exposure will look like in live view. Ok all that sounds fine doesn't it? but this happens quite often, I take the first picture, play back comes up for a short while and the camera reverts to live view, but quite often looks as if the exposure has changed i.e looks much darker even though no dials have been touched.</p> <p>I've learned to live it but it is quite confusing</p>

<p>I can't find much wrong with your picture it suits the subject very well, harsh contrast and vivid setting won't help nor will putting extra black in it, I would see what a tiny bit of extra clarity and sharpness did. I agree about not going far past F8.</p> <p>I'd test the camera in a different way to how the others have suggested, I'd take a few shots of normal subjects like across the road, a garden etc if these look quite different in terms of softness, i.e. normal then most likely it's something to do with your lighting.</p>

<p>Found the problem!!.............it was far simpler than you could ever imagine, somehow when I last changed my in camera settings, instead of putting it back to RAW, I'd accidentally put it into TIFF, thereby making Lightroom's lens profile function in-operative. </p>

<p>Thanks CPM, I'm hoping that I don't have to upgrade, 4.4 works fine for me</p>

<p>Thanks Erik, the strange thing with Windows 10 is everything may just go back to normal when they do another upgrade. Lets hope eh?</p>

<p>Thanks Shun, the window for upgrades says mine is up to date, the only thing I can think of that may have bearing on it was Windows 10 did a big update the day before.</p>

<p>I got a bit of a shock processing a bunch of pictures in my Lightroom 4.4, taken with a AFS 24-85 3.5-4.5 yesterday. I click on lens profile as usual expecting it to recognise the lens instantly, but it said "none", started to fill in the requested lens manufacturer form fields and again the 24-85 didn't come up on the very short list.</p> <p>Checked EXIF, it was correct and showed 24-85, did a double check by clicking metadata in "Library filter" again it was correct. So what might have happened? and more importantly what can be done to get my Lens profile to behave itself properly?</p> <p>Thanks in advance - Clive</p>

<p>Nice little pro shopping list there Eric! but "used" (well used - possibly at the very end of their usable life) bought on that auction site - I suppose they'd make nice ornaments</p>

<p>Not a good idea to buy professional photographers gifts of cameras, far better to let them choose what they need.</p> <p>One thing to look out for when buying used pro cameras is "shutter actuations" (how many pictures it's taken), typically a pro's camera has been used a lot, maybe too much! </p>

<p>there's bound to a big list of Nikon options, 135s, 85s + more DCs, I like my 85 1.8 G and an AF 180 2.8 and for real fun Lensbaby 80 Edge.</p> <p>I've heard a bit about people using 645 and medium format lenses on Nikon FX but have never seen enough results to get interested myself</p>

<p>Hi Rodeo Joe, I've done "bottom plate cleaning" but the problem comes back very quickly, so it's most likely reservoir. Descriptions of how to empty it lead me to think that is best done by trained technicians. That would be OK if the printer was still under warrantee but the cost because it isn't makes it far too costly.</p>

<p>Ah! I thought this may turn into a classic, "how long is a piece of string" topic, things have clearly changed in the printer offerings since I bought my Pixma iP 4200. I've learned a bit too my Pixma is a dye printer, which is why quick prints used in my sculpture studio fade and even bleed quite badly making them next to useless to work from.</p> <p>Very few dedicated A4 printers seem to exist anymore and have been replaced by all-in-ones, no use to me, I've already got a very nice scanner and don't need or want fax at all. Hmmm a bit more thinking and research is needed - I think, thanks for your contributions so far.</p>

<p>Thanks all, so far I've always been content with A4 and send out for anything bigger, I could think about having the facility to go A3 but in the mean time the regular Pixma could be OK, but when I go the website there are many to choose from, nothing A4 seems to be rated pro.</p>

<p>Thanks Allan, I'm in Aus but I'll check it out</p>

<p>I'm hoping that this topic can be seen as being Nikon specific and know that I'll get the best answers and advice in this forum - I print high quality A4 sized pictures/graphic designs for presentations and related material for my business, I also print A4 plain paper pictures to assist with my sculpture work. I take the photographs with a D800 and would like to think that any advice given will talk about compatibility with it.</p> <p>My current printer a Canon iP-4200 has started producing black lines on the back of each print, general forum's consensus suggests that it's time for me to look for an appropriate replacement - any suggestions?</p>

<p>I'd say jpegs don't fit my events/functions workflow - I almost always shoot RAW and do just about everything in Lightroom, I think I only use Photoshop to make different sized pics and Smart Sharpen (because I like it).</p> <p>To me Photoshop is my prefered go-to tool for "creating" or significantly altering images</p> <p> </p>