clive_murray_white

<p>if you have a landscape "idea" that you think can only be achieved with this lens then by all means get one. If you ideas are more general then there's little point in getting it.</p> <p>My favourite landscape lenses are PC-E 45 and Lensbaby Edge 80</p>

<p>Welcome to the Gear Acquisition Syndrome (GAS) "club" Alma, most of us here are members! there are always new, different, better lenses and cameras out there that we suddenly feel we "need" (can't live without), some of us have the curse/addiction so badly that, in truth, we should probably seek counselling!</p> <p>That said, I agree with all the other contributors who suggested faster lens rather than another camera, personally I'd look for a fast prime lens or 2, 50 or 85 1.8. I'd also invest in top notch processing, like Lightroom and Photoshop and learn to enjoy using them. </p>

<p>Thanks Glen, went and checked my forwarding info tried something it asked for and maybe it'll work</p>

<p>Eric, you can usually turn things on or turn them off</p>

<p>Thanks Renee and Glen, no notifications, and yes, I did click the button, it is registering so by change of colour, I think it must be at least 2 weeks since I got any notifications at all.</p>

<p>However hard I try clicking on "notify me of responses" it has decided to ignore me - any reasons?</p>

<p>I found myself thinking, dangerous I know but, remembering my earlier post that included mention of medium format modular systems and thinking about liveview, the worst/most inadequate feature on my D800.</p> <p>It is only a small jump and probably quite doable to replace the back screen with a clip-in clip out smartphone replicating the old analogue Polaroid backs, getting you the net result of a much better liveview, all the usefulness of a phone and even some camera control features from it. </p> <p>It does seem logical that given there are already camera control apps for smart phones, this would just take it one step further.</p> <p>On a similar matter, I've often wondered why we can't make our cameras more secure by having to use a PIN or the like.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I nearly got sucked into this one, my brain started racing through all the options I'd REALLY like to see in my D800 and GPS definitely isn't one of them. For ages I've felt digital cameras simply grew out of 35mms which makes you wonder how things would be if instead of 35mm format, modular Medium Format or even Large Format Field cameras had started the evolutionary process.</p> <p>Maybe we'd have built-in tilt shift, both front and back, maybe instead changing cameras we could upgrade our sensors by clipping in a new or different sensor module and so on, and on, and on. The funny thing in all of this is I suddenly realised that I can do pretty much anything I dream of, not by buying more gear or clipping bits on to the D800 but looking a little more deeply into my Lightroom, Photoshop and Nik Collection. In terms of sending images around I'm quite content with Dropbox etc.</p>

<p><em>Take it from someone who has sold to hundreds of buyers on eBay. The best thing to do in an instance like this is to immediately offer to refund the buyer upon safe return of the lens and move on. Resistance or arguments with the buyer will get you nowhere, except perhaps a negative feedback. The buyer is required to return the item to you by an on-line traceable delivery method, and return shipping is at *their* expense, not yours.</em> x2 <br> <br> I've not sold 100s but enough to know how it all works.<br> <br> If you feel a need to express your frustration in this matter, the only thing you can really do is add "relisted due to non-paying buyer" into your new listing. </p>

<p>Sadly it's unwise to do anything that could get you negative feedback, so I'm with the others favouring a refund with a nice note respecting the buyer.</p>

<p>Thanks Lannie</p>

<p>Just to illustrate old digital 10MP camera ISO 640, f 4.8 manual focus 1/30 s</p> <p><img src="https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/545747_361285743916223_497487088_n.jpg?oh=a9b752ca853523e3ae02c14377188f91&oe=57A4EBE5" alt="" width="850" height="572" /></p> <p>contemporary camera 32MP but with an ordinary zoom 24-85/ 3.5-4.5 @ ISO3200 f5.6 1/200s -2ev </p> <p><img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/1385349_948571551854303_1104973578541092669_n.jpg?oh=d668345ad1fab968eb5b0e710b789864&oe=57C0408D&__gda__=1472136388_dfc951a96105a4ed10bb84bc3897a4dd" alt="" width="850" height="567" /></p> <p>first pic 2012 second pic 2015</p> <p> </p>

<p>As I said in an earlier post I'm not familiar with the D3200 but this thread made me go back through my pictures of performances taken with a succession of digital cameras most of which had notoriously worse low light capabilities and resolution than yours and yet I regularly got some pretty acceptable results.</p> <p>Someone who has a D3200 may be able to point you in the right direction more than me but I'm suspecting that this camera is primarily designed to be used for taking high resolution jpegs set on auto everything and if it automatically makes everything too dark (or too light) use the exposure compensation button to dial in the look that you are happiest with.</p> <p>If your lens isn't really long enough to get the picture you want 24MP should be plenty big enough for you to crop later.</p>

<p>Hi I'm not familiar with your camera, but from time to time I have to take pictures of musicians playing at our art gallery, at night with poor lighting. My camera is full frame FX so things will be slightly different in terms of lenses for your DX.</p> <p>I manually set my ISO to 3200 (not auto) I usually use a 50 or 85 1.8G for a whole performance, i.e. no lens changing for the whole event - this gives a nice consistency to all the pictures. I set the camera to A (aperture) and occasionally switch between f2 and f4 depending on my subject, keep an eye on the speed, 1/60th is slow but works most times for me, if you are worried stay at f2. A bigger venue would mean that I'd have to use my 180 2.8.</p> <p>I think there is a trick to this kind of work, in a word its: practice. Dream up situations that have the same kinds of problems that you can take your camera to any day of the week, you'll find that it doesn't take long to get the hang of it. </p> <p> </p>

<p>if you can go manual focus (with confirmation) the Voigtlander Nokton 58/1.4 has a lot more class in the way it renders than the Nikon 50/1.8G</p>

<p>off topic I know but "notify me of responses" doesn't seem to be working on this thread for me, any advice?</p>

<p>Thanks Chip, as you guessed there is quite a background story but much more importantly I thought it was a pretty good example of the 85 1.8 G strutting it's stuff.</p>

<p>I have both but use them on a D800, the 85 is my go to lens if I want to drop out backgrounds and have them rendered attractively, on the subjective of subjective I feel that the 85 has a good bit more "magic" than the 50.</p> <p><img src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10414379_1075472802485434_2759447635932299792_n.jpg?oh=142a2769cdb9451a4219a4d9f48a8230&oe=57B0F9F2&__gda__=1471813579_ef8307ba825209d1076379575ec1bdd9" alt="" width="850" height="567" /></p>

<p>I'm with Jose on this one, </p> <p><em>"I`d take the D700 and a 24-85, or for a longer range, a 24-120 instead. Nothing else"</em><br> <em> </em><br> I'd be worrying about dust more than anything in Morocco, so I'd be keeping lens changing to a minimum. My kit would be D800 + 24-85 and my Fuji X100.<br> <em> </em><br> <em> </em></p>

<p>Ha Ha, this is turning into a Monty Python sketch! if I was satisfied that I wasn't contravening copyright, I'd be looking at rigging up a table around my scanner at the same height as it and then stitching the images together. I've got an early Canoscan 9000F, even a brand new one will cost around the same price as a decent lens.</p> <p>Fortunately I have 45mm Nikkor PC-E which works very well for taking pics of artworks, without needing the tilt or shift functions. </p>

<p>I'm not sure about this, but it's something I'd definitely look into, just to be on the safe side - the copyright on the cartoons, it could easily be argued that you are copying someone's "valuable" designs, republishing them and possibly depriving the author of revenue. The cost of getting this side of things wrong could well exceed the price of any lens.</p>

<p><em>Beside this kind of problem doesn't even compare to rest of humanity's problems.</em><br> <em> </em><br> My partner who is an elected representative of our community, was telling me over breakfast this morning (without knowing about this thread) that the chief police officer gives them regular briefing on crime in the district. Last week's police update concentrated on a new initiative to encourage the community to report all "minor" thefts and acts of vandalism because, evidently, there is increasingly strong data to suggest that these minor things can often lead to much more serious ones in the future. In terms of vandalism the evidence suggests that it can be a precursor to much more significant violence.</p>

<p>I mentioned a similar car theft event in another thread a week or so ago, I can add here that my Jeep Wrangler had smoked glass windows, which made it almost impossible for anyone to see what may be stored inside.</p> <p>As I pondered my options after the theft in the car park a number of local people came up and told me these kinds of theft were very common in that particular car park and that the thieves leave very little to chance by constantly watching car owners. In my case I had to open my tail gate door to get a reasonably large wheelie case out for a presentation I was doing nearby, giving whoever was watching a good view of anything else that maybe inside.</p> <p>The police weren't very interested but did register the event. Fortunately all my gear and even the car window was covered by insurance - but obviously you still loose quite a few dollars.</p> <p>I kept an eye on eBay for ages but never saw my gear.</p> <p>I think bike riders have a much harder time than us photographers- I keep seeing ads for GPS trackers for bikes and often think that may be I should look for something like that for my photo gear.</p> <p>In Australia the lawyer's fees for suing anyone for $1000.00 would easily cost more than $1000.00 so it wouldn't be worth considering.</p>

<p><img src="https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12832395_1122387914460589_682745180503330910_n.jpg?oh=6e5a62c273cdae8c398a868e6c4e9ca4&oe=57560412" alt="" width="850" height="567" /></p> <p>Just remembered: an essential bit of kit when working in my favourite landscape is tropical strength insect repellent </p>

<p>I have to admit that on the odd occasions that I must take quite a lot of gear, I use my Domke jacket and spread the load evenly, much more comfortable than a any bag I've ever tried - and when the Domke is going to cause problems I've got a few other "normal" garments with lots of big pockets.</p> <p>The 'white" issue, albeit slightly tangential, is interesting, I went to art school in the 60s and a stock in trade exercise was making students paint an all "white" still life, a few miserable geometric forms, a cube, a cone, rectangle etc - and the lecturing staff would always tell us that there were colours scattered all over the scene - as students we couldn't see them, but over time you get see that they are there.</p> <p>Point being: white soaks up all sorts of colours and is in terms of photography, rarely pure white</p>