maury_cohen

<p>You will need our new Lens Case 11x26cm, or the old Lens Case 4. The Lens Case 2 is not large enough.</p>

<p>Maury Cohen, Product Specialist - Lowepro US</p>

<p>As pointed out a few paragraphs up... camera movement is the #1 cause of sharpness degradation with 35mm. Though many folks claim to be able to handhold down to 1/8 sec. and slower, the reality is that most of the time anything below 1/125-1/250 is liable to show sharpness loss. Focal length has to be figured in as well.<br>

Medium format is more often shot on a tripod or with flash; both of which support sharper results.</p>

<p>Joke Bob? I was in Yosemite for the last firefall back in 1968. AFAIK it was discontinued for safety and PR reasons.</p>

<p>Assuming you don't have the optional Vertical Grip on the 6D, our Toploader Zoom 55 AW should be the correct size Antonio. If you do have the optional grip you'll want the extra depth of the Pro 70 AW.</p>

<p>Maury Cohen - Product Specialist, Lowepro US</p>

<p>Most likely those are dust particles in the air, close to your lens.<br>

These particles (same with snow and raindrops) are accentuated by flash-on-camera.</p>

<p>California: Yosemite, Kings Canyon/Sequoia, The Pacific Coast Highway (1).</p>

 

<p>Donate it to a local school or college.</p>

<p>I had the SP500 myself years ago. Sweet CAT.<br>

I personally believe that any long tele gets sharpest results at medium distance. My sharpest were taken at about 100-200'. <br>

With distant subjects, aerial haze and distortion come into play; degrading the image. </p>

 

<p>I'm left eye dominant, however on occasion I'll switch to right to avoid putting a big, greasy nose-print on my LCD.<br>

Other than The fact that I'm switching which eye I use, it doesn't cause me grief. I just have to think about it. I'm sure, with practice, you can train yourself to switch eyes now and then. </p>

<p>MeFoto makes some nice, sturdy and compact tripods.<br>

One technique that will help steady any smaller tripod is to hang the camera bag or pack from the head of the extended tripod. Some tripods provide a hook underneath the ext. column, otherwise you can just loop a handle (of the bag or pack) over whatever's handy near the tripod head. </p>

<p>At any comparable aperture, a longer effective focal length is going to have shallower DOF.</p>

<p>Yes; there's a flash slave there. What appears to be a possibly homemade flash bracket, probably to support an umbrella. A Gralab darkroom timer. One 4x4 sheet film holder. A focus magnifier that would work in place of a dark cloth.</p>

<p>Yes and no; Classic bare bulb is an undiffused source. The diffuser shown in the photo does provide 360 degree diffusion, but at more of a cost of lost intensity Vs true bare-bulb.</p>

<p>Your second example actually looks like normal film graininess to me.<br>

We had a student assignment at Art Center to produce reticulation by intent, and modern films (this was in the 70's) were so resilient, that it was necessary to go from ice-water cold to almost boiling heat to produce the result. I find it hard to imagine that a commercial lab would be able to reproduce this result accidentally.</p>

<p>Many would say that the stock lens is a biit too short for close-up headshots, but the perspective for 3/4 or full-length portraits should be very pleasing.</p>

<p>To the best of my knowldge the Hasselblad leaf shutter lenses close after firing and only re-open when the shutter is re-cocked and film advanced.</p>

<p>My old Kodak 35 actually had small notches on one edge of the film aperture that exposed a pattern onto the frame edge during exposure.</p>

<p>Yes, I've sold to KEH.<br>

As you're seeing in many responses, they're middlemen and will generally pay you about 1/4 of what an item was new. In my experience, average gear is worth about 1/2 what it was new as used gear, and the want to make 100% profit so they pay about half of that. I don't feel that this is unfair as they are saving you the trouble of listing and selling the gear.</p>

<p>Steve,<br>

In my experience the 140 slide trays are more finicky than the 80 slide trays. Also; they may be jamming on a slide that's in a thicker mount or a slide who's mount is damaged or frayed.</p>

<p>Don't lose faith Ray; it's not uncommon to have problems the first time.<br>

With "auto-loading" reels like the Paterson it's critically important that they be completely dry, and it can help to trim the leading corners just slightly (about 1/16" corner off ea. side) to facilitate easier loading.</p>

<p>I suppose it could be the switch, the led, or both...</p>

<p>Stroboframe Vertaflip bracket is another nice design. If it's still available there was a very simple "L" shaped one that pivoted 90 degrees.</p>

<p>What's your purpose in doing this test?</p>

<p>Lisl Dennis has authored at least a couple of books on travel photography. lots of good info. And I like her eye.</p>

<p>It does actually look like there could be 50' of focus in the photo; but it starts near the driver and extends behind the car for the most part. Seems to me part of the solution might be pre-focusing (manually) and capturing cars (in a given spot) as they pass a certain trigger point.</p>