dcstep

<a href=" title="Streeetch... by dcstep, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5064/5694726826_e652f4f504_z.jpg" width="427" height="640" alt="Streeetch..."></a>

<p>Exactly Ronald. This is why people should use Digital Lens Optimization during their Raw conversion process.</p>

<p>If you take a digital image has 50% of the pixels of another image, taken with the same lens at the same focal length, and you make the prints the same size, you are enlarging the smaller image, or, "changing the print size." No words are put into you mouth. Just trying to provide clarity to other readers. Changing print size does not change DOF.</p>

<p>Robin, you're saying that changing the print size changes DOF, I'm saying it doesn't. Let's disagree.</p>

<p>"Implying" a DOF change and actually making one are two different things. DOF does not change with cropping, you merely look at a smaller portion of the same image.</p>

<p>When you look at comparisons of the Dynamic Range ( www.dxomark.com for one ) of the 6D to the 5D MkIII, the differences are not significant at all below ISO 1600 and they're pretty small after that.</p>

<a href=" title="Honey Bee Approaches Thistle by David Stephens, on Flickr"> <img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3856/14601123335_e822935fbe_c.jpg " width="800" height="800" alt="Honey Bee Approaches Thistle"></a>

<p>Welcome. You can learn a lot here, but you should also consider a camera club or community college course to really accelerate fast.</p>

<a href=" title="Flight for life by David Stephens, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2801/4485352857_3f297acc44_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="Flight for life"></a>

<p>Since you're already shooting in Raw, working with ETTR will give you much more flexibility to work with shadows, colors and contrast in your finished image. As a default, I'm using +2/3 to +1EV. I go to 0-EV or minus EV when there are strong, important highlights in the image (like a white bird in direct sun, with a brown background). Use the Shadow and Highlight sliders to recover details and bring the finished image closer to what the eye sees.</p> <p>You're on the verge of learning a valuable technique that'll make your images stand apart.</p>

<p>Digitally zooming doesn't change DOF or focal length, it merely narrows the field of view and uses less of the file. Nikon does provide for digitally changing the sensor's effective size on its D800, with the added advantage of a smaller file, allowing more frames per second. This is not a problem with the 5D MkIII while the 6D might gain from this, if firmware were updated to allow it.</p> <p>Cropping (no different from digitally zooming in-camera) does not necessarily magnify the imperfections of a lens, so long as your using the middle of the image, where most lenses actually perform better. If you crop to show a corner of an image, then the lens's imperfections will be amplified. </p> <p>I crop a high percentage of my wildlife shots, even those shot with 1,000mm, and see little ill effect until I start nearing pixel-levels. A 20% crop is no big deal, but 50% and above can be problematic when the image is viewed full-screen. Any focus imperfection is amplified, as is noise and other pixel-problems. Optical focal length is always superior to digital zoom, or cropping. </p>

<a href=" title="Young Buck In A Hurry by David Stephens, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7390/14118707963_aea3990def_c. jpg" width="800" height="534" alt="Young Buck In A Hurry"></a>

<a href=" title="Biker 2 by David Stephens, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5527/9221934047_bc12167990_c.jpg" width="800" height="534" alt="Biker 2"></a>

<a href=" title="Fall scene. by David Stephens, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8185/8101474642_6cfcc2a368_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="Fall scene."></a>

<a href=" title="South shore of The Big Island of Hawaii by David Stephens, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4068/4267712351_244a8d15dd_z.jpg" width="427" height="640" alt="South shore of The Big Island of Hawaii"> </a>

<p><strong>Great Blue Heron Hunts</strong></p> <p>Canon 7D, EF 70--200mm f/4L IS, EF 1.4x TC-III, Av Mode, ISO 800, 0-EV, f/9, resulting in 1/1250-sec., hand held, with Raw conversion in DxO Optics Pro 9.5.</p> <p><a title="Great Blue Heron Hunts by David Stephens, on Flickr" href=" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3918/14690352386_0c0c711064_c.jpg" alt="Great Blue Heron Hunts" width="800" height="800" /></a></p>

<p><strong>Snowy Egret Catches Mudbug</strong></p> <p>Canon 7D, EF 500mm f/4L IS, EF 1.4x TC-III, Av Mode, ISO 800, 0-EV, f/8, resulting in 1/1250-sec., hand held, with Raw conversion in DxO Optics Pro 9.5.</p> <p><a title="Egret Catches Mudbug by David Stephens, on Flickr" href=" src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2940/14721629013_aabece4802_c.jpg" alt="Egret Catches Mudbug" width="800" height="534" /></a></p>

<p><strong>Big Buck Jumps Fence</strong><br> <strong> </strong><br> Canon 7D, EF 70-200mm f/4L IS, EF 1.4x TC-III, at 266mm, Av Mode, ISO 1600, +2/3EV, f/5.6, resulting in 1/320-sec., handheld, with Raw conversion in DxO Optics Pro 9.5.</p> <p><a title="Big Buck Jumps Fence by David Stephens, on Flickr" href=" src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3915/14505894677_5e874968fb_c.jpg" alt="Big Buck Jumps Fence" width="800" height="533" /></a></p>

<p>Looking at 200%, I only see a very smooth bit of Luminescence and no Chromanance. You had way more room to Expose To The Right. That'll lower noise and, since you're already shooting Raw, you should take advantage of it. I'm guessing that you could have use +1EV on the first shot. Then in Raw conversion, you "normalize" the exposure level by bring down the overall Exposure level. Also, you've got more room to raise the shadows on the woman without adding noise.</p>

<p>I'm not talking about sharpening, but correction with each lens/body combination at each focal length and aperture combination. When using any zoom lens your going to experience different strong and weak points, where DLO minimizes these differences.</p> <p>EF 24-105mm f/4L IS at f/11 and 24mm on a 5D MkII:</p> <p><a title="Grand Canyon Snow by David Stephens, on Flickr" href=" src="https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6058/6338312347_7a4b54cc00_z.jpg" alt="Grand Canyon Snow" width="640" height="427" /></a></p>

<a href=" title="Grand Canyon Snow by David Stephens, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6058/6338312347_7a4b54cc00_z.jpg" width="640" height="427" alt="Grand Canyon Snow"></a>

<a href=" title="38 Delores Street by David Stephens, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3851/14644462512_fcc8319ef8_c.jpg" width="800" height="534" alt="38 Delores Street"></a>

<p>Use Digital Lens Optimization when you convert your Raw files and you'll be happy with the IQ of the 24-105mm.</p>

<p>I carry the following lenses for my Canon 5D MkIII;</p> <ul> <li>EF 15mm f/2.8 fisheye</li> <li>EF 24-105mm f/4L IS</li> <li>EF 70-200mm f/4L IS </li> <li>EF 500mm f/4L IS</li> <li>EF 1.4x TC-III</li> <li>EF 2.0x TC-III</li> </ul> <p>I've use them all to shoot mountains. It all depends on how far away I am and which perspective that I like at the moment.</p> <p>Here's Long's Peak at 280mm:</p> <p><a title="Cloudy Long's Peak, in Rocky Mountain National Park by David Stephens, on Flickr" href=" src="https://farm7.staticflickr.com/6155/6221485374_53a663de45_z.jpg" alt="Cloudy Long's Peak, in Rocky Mountain National Park" width="640" height="427" /></a><br> I used the 70-200mm, plus the 1.4x TC-III, but had the other lenses with me.</p>

<p>Yes, no, unless you're a hopeless romantic, love delayed gratification and love working with one-arm tied behind your back.</p>