Rob F.

<p>"Series E 75-150 f/3.5....!"<br> Yes that is supposed to be a very good lens. I'm hoping for AF though, and maybe a little longer reach. The 70-210 seems like a contender, but somehow I seem to want to talk myself into the 70-180. (But it's so slow.)</p>

<p>The 70-200 f/4 would probably be perfect, except it's a "G" lens, and I want a lens I can use on older film bodies (FE2, FM3a, N90s) as well as on the D700 and D300. Right now I cover this range with an 85/1.8 AF; my 135mm Leica Elmarit in Nikon mount; and either my 180/3.4 Leitz APO-Telyt in Nikon mount, or else the 180/2.8 Nikkor. Having to use the 135 in stop-down mode is slow and inconvenient. I thought it might be nice to just get a high quality AF zoom. But settling on one within an acceptable weight and size range is not easy. Apparently the 70-210 has good IQ, but apparently has AF problems.</p> <p>But if I get the 70-180, I am liable to be saying, "I <em>knew</em> I wouldn't be happy with such a slow lens." Or else, "I don't know what I was worried about, this lens is fine, and very handy!" So I thought I would collect some user reports.</p>

<p>I'd like a zoom in this range, but I'm put off by the weight and bulk of the 80-200 versions. I know the 70-180 is heavy, but I think not deal-breaking heavy. And it's small enough to ride comfortably in my Tamrac or Domke bag. I keep putting off buying it, though. If the weight and cost aren't deal-breakers, its speed of f/4.5-5.6 seems like it should be enough to make me forget about it. That is really pretty slow! But I seem to keep wanting it, which is probably irrational.</p> <p>So how about some user reports? What do you do with yours? Did you buy it just for Macro work? Because I really don't need it for that. I want to use it as a general walk-around lens together with my 24-85 AF. I want excellent image quality. If it's nothing special as a high quality zoom in that range, I might as well pick up a 70-210mm f/4 for 150 bucks and call it a day. AS to Macro, I only need to get close enough for wildflowers. I can do that with my 28-105 AF, or my 55mm Micro-Nikkor.</p> <p>So if you use yours for general photography outdoors, is the slow speed or the IQ a disappointment after the honeymoon is over? Or do you find yours really pretty adequate?</p>

<p>"135 is tight for Landscapes." <br> Yes. Especially for someone like me who considers a 24mm to be the normal lens (at least when shooting in Colorado). But I keep a 135 Leitz Elmarit, in Nikon mount, in the bag for detail shots. And I thought I might do more of those this year. I should probably just keep the Elmarit. I have to use it in stop-down mode. But no complaints about the IQ!</p>

<p>Somehow when I read about this lens I had imagined a really tack-sharp subject against an OOF background. But since, as Ilkka says, it isn't particularly sharp, there goes that fantasy. I can do that with any of my sharp fast lenses anyhow.</p> <p>Thanks fo the reality check.</p>

<p>I probably wont use it at full aperture very often, but I would use it some, and f/2 would be good for viewing. I read that the DC lenses are very sharp, and very well built, and that is what attracts me to them. The DC function is interesting, but somewhat less important. I'm no portrait photographer.</p> <p>I had been considering the 80-200mm f/2.8 AF/ED two-ring but our threads here on it say it is not that good wide open; is too heavy (3.5 lbs); and despite the "professional" metal shell and the nice crinkle paint job is not well made. Someone took one apart to fix it and found the focus ring was held on by melted plastic tabs!</p> <p>I can't use the 70-200 you mention because it's a G lens, and I need to use it on everything from an FE2 to an N90s to a D700.</p> <p>Right now I'm using a Leica 135/2.8 R adapted to Nikon with a Leitax flange. No complaints about its optical quality, but I get tired of using it in stop-down mode. Maybe I should just stay with it, and find something else to worry about?</p>

<p> . . . or other photography at a distance? In lurking through the archives, some members who know their stuff have said it's a fine portrait lens, with out of this world background bokeh. No one seems to say it's a go-to for general photography, landscapes, etc. And it apparently is quirky for focus accuracy on some Nikons, requiring some diddling with the DC control just to correct this.</p> <p>So is it worth getting just because I, a non-portrait type, would like a very fine lens, to use at distances of 100 feet or a mile? It seems very exotic and really neat; but should I just get over it and move on?</p>

<p>Glad I saw this thread. I was seriously considering buying one of these two-ring 80-200 AF ED models. Posts about it not being so great on the D800 were not too off-putting, since I shoot with a D700. Complaints I noticed about the weight (3.5 pounds!) made me think twice. And now this: a lens that sells used, as of spring, 2016, for around $555 and up, and it is put together like a child's toy? Apparently the metal housing is just for looks, and underneath it is no better than a cheap lens? </p> <p>I think I better pass. Apparently it's better to stick with the older Nikkors, made back when they were really built right--even if we do have to enter the focal length and the max aperture manually. Then again, my small collection of plastic AF-Nikkors has not failed me; apparently they were a wiser purchase for the money.</p>

<p>Eric Kim appears in YouTube videos, often doing street photography with a Leica. I think he calls himself "DigitalRev."</p>

<p>Evenings have been the best time, in the past, to phone Sherry.</p>

<p>Thanks for that, Brian. I have not had any of my lenses 6-bit coded, although I do make an effort to code them with my M-Coder kit. Unfortunately the codes don't stay long before getting rubbed off when changing lenses. I haven't seen vignetting either, but since I use wide angle lenses, the 21mm Elmarit ASPH, 28mm Summicron, and 35mm Summicron, sometimes I worry that I might not be getting the most out of the M8.2 by not having the lenses coded. But apparently I'm not missing much by not updating my M8.2 firmware.</p>

<p>Trying to research what these updates accomplish. Several articles online mention that they add newly introduced lenses to the camera's correction data. But what else might they do? I'd like it if one of these updates provided the ability to manually enter the lens ID for lenses that are not coded (as you can with the M9). Does anyone know if they do?</p> <p>Any other perks and benefits to updating? I don't think any of my lenses were newly introduced after my firmware version 2005. Well, maybe my 75mm Summicron was. Probably no sense in risking uploading failures and problems unless the later versions are going to do something for me.</p>

<p>So getting back to David's original question, what does an update accomplish for the M8 or M8.2? David says he has version 2.004. I have version 2.005. I gather from some reading that one thing it does is add coding for new lenses. Anything else? Will the latest version allow manual entry of lenses, like you can do with the M9? What other benefits might there be?</p>

<p>Yes, there is a slight softness to the Makro-Planar with distant subjects, say at 20M (about 66 feet) and more. It is not unacceptable, but it is not the razor-sharp performance the Makro-Planar delivers at close distances, say about 2M and closer.</p>

<p>And another follow-up: Within the past several years, I bought a second sample of the Makro-Planar and obtained the same result. The softness at a distance is not unpleasant with some subjects; but tack-sharp it isn't, even when appropriately stopped down to around f/8 to f/11 and on a tripod. Maybe f/16 would help.</p> <p>For closeups, use the 120. For distance, with some magnification over the normal lens, use the 150 Sonnar, or maybe the 100mm Planar if a wider view is needed. (The latter has the reputation of being at its best at infinity. I haven't verified this myself.)</p>

<p>You should be able to get a 500C body in decent cosmetic condition for no more than the $200 this one costs. If you have not already bought it, don't. If you have, sell it and get a nicer one. I picked up a spare 500C/M for less than that.</p>

<p>It would probably help to say which lens you are using. Someone might already know for that particular lens.</p>

<p>I was just starting to use and like Astia when they discontinued it. I wish they would bring it back! My exposures were fine shooting it at box speed. I used a UV filter and liked the result.</p>

<p>I think you could use rubber cement, which will allow the cover to be removed if and when necessary.</p>

<p>Here's one trick. Focus the lens first by starting from the infinity end of the focusing ring. Stop at what seems to be the point of best focus. Note the distance on the distance scale. Then turn past the point of focus until you are focused too close. Then re-focus, this time coming from too close. When you see your best focus from that direction, note the reading on the distance scale again. Is it the same as before? Then you got lucky. You can take the picture. Is it different from the first time? Then set the focus ring to split the difference between the two readings.</p> <p>Also, look at what Edward said yesterday. It's a easier variation of the above. Rock the lens back and forth, going through the point of best focus first one way and then the other. Now simply let your fingers move the lens to the midpoint. Your fingers will know where that is! The reason this works is that your nervous system is very good at remembering--for a short time--where the midpoint is of the movements you have made, to arrive at the true point of focus. Try it. It works.</p>

<p>I don't believe anything is worn out. I think Dave A. has it right when he describes the shutter release as requiring an unexpectedly light touch. Perhaps I will get used to it. If not, I'm sure someone else will want it. I like my Hasselblads better anyhow. Thanks for the responses so far.</p>

<p>I like everything about my 7II except that the exposure metering and shutter release actuation is really touchy. A light touch turns the meter on. The merest increase in pressure fires the shutter. There is not much of a resistance point, or shutter button travel distance, after actuating the meter (as there is on a Nikon,Leica M, etc.) to let you know that any more pressure will fire the shutter. And I'm having a hard time adjusting to this difference between the Mamiya and my other cameras. With the others, I know when I'm about to fire the shutter. With the Mamiya, I get accidental shutter releases. Not all the time, but enough to make me nervous about using it.</p> <p>What has been your experience? Do you find this a nuisance, or do most of you 7 and 7II users feel that the shutter release is just fine, just as it is? Did it take some getting used to, and now you are OK with it, or not? I'd like to hear from other M7II users!</p>

<p>The same part split on my 150mm Sonnar. I just put a piece of electrical tape over the crack. I guess epoxy or crazy glue would work, too.</p>

<p>This caution does come from Sherry. I've been there when she said it. It has been a while so I don't remember everything she said, but I can recall she said the problem is in the large shutter drum. She also said that if you have one with a lower serial number, "You don't have to run right out and sell it, it's just something to be aware of."</p>