jon_shumpert2

<p>I was going to use the subject line, "In search of the mythical Pentax MX that doesn't have flash sync problems", but I thought that would be too long. I posted here some time ago a Pentax MX I had that had flash sync issues. It would flash at shutter speeds above 1/60, but not below. It was the second MX that I had owned, and neither could be used with flash. A few days ago I found a nice looking black MX at a thrift store along with a sigma 35-70 zoom and Sears 135/2.8. The shutter speeds all seem to work fine and the lenses are clean. As soon as I got home , I tried out a flash on it and nothing happened. It will not work with the flash attached to the shoe or the pc connection. I have used many classic slr's, including Pentaxes, but have never had this problem with any other. I was just wondering if there are others who have the same problems with their MX's. I really like them except for the problems I have had with all 3 that I have owned.</p>

<p>Here is a photo of the lens</p><div></div>

<p>Here is a close up of the lens mount.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi everyone. I recently came across a monster of a lens and couldn't resist buying it. I didn't let the fact that I didn't have a camera body to put it on stop me. It is a Konica 400mm f4.5. It came with the original case and a set of color filters. I am ultimately going to sell it, but wanted to buy an old Konica body so I could have some fun with the lens first. I have tried finding information on this lens, but the lens doesn't have much written about it. First question, is what camera bodies can it be used on? I am including a photo of the lens mount. My second question is regarding the value of the lens. I checked ebay for recent completed sales, but found none for the lens. Any ideas what to list it for when I do sell it? Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>Hi Aiden, you can use both of those flashes with the camera and the Yongnuo receivers. You are limited to manual mode with the SB-700. The vivitar 285 can be set to auto aperture or manual. With the FM2, there is no TTL control of the flash regardless of which transmitter system you use. The only communication between an SB flash and the camera is a ready light in the viewfinder. The SB-700 does have manual settings. The SB-700 also has a built in light sensor so that it can be triggered by your vivitar 285 when the SB-700 is in su-4 mode. If you need a good place to read about off camera flash, go to http://strobist.blogspot.com/ I hope this helps.</p>

<p>I was asked by my employer to check out some flashes that were not working. Two of them are SB-600's with broken flash tubes. I found a tutorial video on how to replace the tubes and have a background in electronics repair, so it should be easy. One of them has a problem I'm not sure how to fix, so that is why I need help here. The motor that zooms the head has come loose and I am not sure how to keep it in place. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.</p>

<p>Thanks for the help.</p>

<p>I recently found a Werra at an antique store. It works great, but has one cosmetic problem. The name badge/emblem is missing. Does anyone know where I might be able to find a replacement? I tried ebay with no luck. I had been wanting a Werra ever since I saw a posting by Rick Drawbridge about Werra cameras. I really should not read any of his posts because he has a way of making me want to buy more cameras than I need. Thanks for any suggestions.</p><div></div>

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<p>Hi Matthew. I am guessing that it could be used to block part of the image for taking multiple exposures. As for the small hole, I think it might be too big to allow pinhole photography.</p>

<p>Hi Bob. Nikon also makes an 85mm macro lens that costs much less than the 105mm. The advantage of the 105mm is that you get the same image magnification and don't have to be as close to the subject. The 105mm will also work on full frame cameras if you ever decide to buy one. Check out Nikonusa.com You can find information on both lenses. A third choice in the Nikon line-up, but one I probably wouldn't get, is the 40mm macro. It is the lowest price, but at its closest focus, you have only around 6 inches between the camera and what you are photographing. This could cause a problem with lighting the subject. The 85mm has a close up distance of .9feet and the 105 is 1ft. As Shun Cheung mentioned, there are several 3rd party choices such as Tamron and Sigma.</p>

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<p>Hi, I just bought a new Canon pixma pro-100 and am getting ready to set it up. After receiving it and opening the box, I noticed that the ink cartridges have "set up ink" printed on them. I am curious how much ink is included in them and how soon I should plan to buy new ones? On another note, I have some older ilford paper I plan on using with it, but can't find the icc profile for the paper on ilfords website. Does anyone know where to find profiles for discontinued papers? Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>I have had 2 MX's and both had a flash sync problem. One of them would not fire a shoe mounted flash at 1/60 or slower, but would fire at faster speeds. One would not fire at all. Other than the sync problem, I really like my current MX. I thought about trying to get one that has no problems, but I don't use flash much. </p>

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<p>My favorite small 35mm camera is the Olympus stylus epic. They made some with zoom lenses, but mine has a fixed focal length. It is compact, but is capable of taking very good photos. Info on it can be found at: http://www.olympusamerica.com/cpg_section/cpg_archived_product_details.asp?fl=&id=291</p>

<p>Thanks Wouter. I looked under the space under the card and there was a leaflet.</p>

<p>I have a question that I have tried to find the answer to here. I bought a 16gb Lexar sd card that says "free search and recovery software" on the package. I inserted it into my computer, but when I open it, there is nothing on it. In the past, I had a san disk with preloaded software and it loaded automatically. Am I mistaken in thinking the Lexar should have done the same? Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>A Nikon F3 is a great choice. I have had many Nikon 35mm slr's and the F3 is my all time favorite.</p>

<p>Hi Andrew. For lighting purposes, I would generally prefer a room with white walls over one with black. The option of getting a better vantage point in the darker room is something to consider. I was wondering if you could use your strobes without modifiers and bounce them off the white wall behind you? This would give a broader light source and eliminate hot spots or hard shadows, though depending on how many rows you use in posing the group, light falloff could be an issue. If you use light modifiers, I would suggest using a shoot through umbrella over a softbox because the umbrella gives a wider spread of light. Another technique I find useful is aiming the umbrella at the back row of groups. The light is brighter in the center of the umbrella and has slight falloff at the edges. By careful positioning of the umbrellas, the back row could receive close to the same amount of light as the front row. </p>

<p>I agree with Kent.</p>

<p>I am curious what the different symbols on the logo represent. The one on the top left looks like a film reel. The one on the top right looks like a lens group with an arrow through it.</p><div></div>

<p>I bought a Revere stereo 33 a few months ago and I am just getting around to taking some photos with it. I was cleaning it today and started thinking about classic cameras and the cool looking logos/badges on some of them. I have a dinecorp ringflash that I repaired and tested it today to photograph the Revere logo. I used the ringflash along with a 90mm Tamron macro.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Alan, I am interested in reading some of the responses also. I bought a Revere stereo 33 last week. It looks like new and seems to work fine. I went to a stereo photography convention many years ago and was amazed at many of the images. I hope the two cameras work well for you.</p>