jon_shumpert2

<p>You walk into a restroom and are immediately interested in the quality of light and how you could make great portraits with it, if it wasn't in a restroom. I was at a local studio/darkroom this morning developing film. I took a short break and when I walked in the restroom, the light through the frosted glass was amazing. The photographer in me was only thinking about how great it would be for portraits. The sane person in me was embarrassed because of the location. I think many of us have done things we wouldn't otherwise have done, just to get a cool photo. Anyone want to share some?</p>

<p>Is it completely non functional? I have an F3 and it works without batteries when set to T. Have you tried turning the shutter speed dial to another setting and using the mechanical release? If the mechanical release still works I think you may just need new batteries. Good luck. I hope you get it working again. My F3 is my favorite camera.</p>

<p>I have a Schneider-Kreuznach retina-xenar 50mm f2.8 lens for my Kodak Retina S that needs minor repair and I thought I would check here for help. I shot with the camera recently and started having trouble focusing. I found that the screw that holds the focusing tab on is loose. The screw is causing rubbing in the focusing barrel. If anyone has experience with repairing this lens, I would appreciate the help. Thanks.</p><div></div>

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<p>Thanks Keith. I had not thought of using more than two flashes, because I only have the one sc-19 cord. I am thinking of getting another sc-19 cord, so I will have to use the as-10.</p>

<p>I just recently bought a Nikon AS-10 multi flash adapter with a sc-19 cord. I shoot with Nikon film and digital slr's so I can use it with my N90s in ttl. I know I have limited functionality with my Df, but can use it with limitations. I have a question regarding whether or not I need to use the AS-10 with my flashes , because the flashes have a connection for the sc-19 cord. Is there an advantage to using the as-10 other than having a 1/4-20 thread for mounting on a lightstand? I don't plan on using it much with my digital slr because I can shoot wireless. I bought them at a small camera store for $10. Thanks for any help.</p>

<p>I just got home from visiting relatives near Tampa, Florida. One thing I enjoy doing is visiting the camera stores there, mainly because I don't have one near me. Last year I was saddened to find that North Tampa photo closed. Last week I stopped by Lake Shore Camera and found out they were closing due to the death of the owner. I always found the people who work there friendly and helpful. The only camera store I know of in the Tampa area now is Pasco Camera.</p>

<p>Erko, Thanks for sending the camera. I will be going through some of my camera equipment after the holidays and will give some things away too.</p>

<p>Hi Claire, I have a sekonic meter I use for flash metering, but when I go out with one of my old film cameras I use a Gossen Pilot 2. It is a small ambient meter that measures direct or reflected light. It does not require batteries and comes with a small case.</p>

<p>Pre-war Lionel 259E engine</p><div></div>

<p>Hi David, I sent a message and an e-mail with my address. Thanks, Jon</p>

<p>Hi David, if no one else has claimed the film I would be happy to have it.</p>

<p>Hi Denise. There is no problem turning the zoom ring in A mode. I have a feeling the person who cautioned you about using the zoom may have been thinking of the focus ring. </p>

<p>Hi Mimi. Unless the camera has sentimental value, it is a lot cheaper to buy a used one on ebay. What is wrong with the camera?</p>

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<p>Mine doesn't have the letters on the mount , probably because it has the Minolta name on the lens. The notch on the lens flange is in the same location.</p>

<p>Hi Donald. I can't quite make out the letters on the lens mount, but they look like M/MD which is probably for Minolta MD mount. I just took a lens off my Minolta x-700 and the mount looks similar.</p>

<p>Hi Charles. You may be thinking of KEH. Their website is <a href="http://www.keh.com">www.keh.com</a></p>

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<p>Hi Jessica, I had a similar problem with a few photos recently. I often photograph sports, so I set my autofocus to af-c. It is great for moving subjects. I was taking some photos the next day of still subjects. I would focus and re-compose, thinking the photos were in focus, when the camera was actually re-focusing as I recomposed. It was a silly mistake, and I realized my mistake after just a few photos were taken. Looking at your photo, I am thinking that may have happened to you. Check to see if your camera is set to af-c instead of af-s. The light fixtures in the background are definitely what the camera focused on. Another possible cause could be releasing pressure on the shutter button after you focus, causing the camera to re-focus when you press the shutter fully to take a photo. As for the exposure, It appears that the bright background fooled the meter. The overall exposure of the photo looks about right. I would either get closer and take a meter reading without the bright background in the frame, or overexpose. When I am doing group or single portraits, I usually choose a single focus point, then focus, then re-compose. I hope this helps.</p>

<p>Thanks for the help. I was thinking of entering the aperture as f4. I was just playing with the lens earlier tonight. it is a solidly built lens and is in excellent condition. The only flaw is a speck of dust, so I'm happy about my newest toy.</p>

<p>I bought a Nikon 35-105 ais lens today for use mainly on my F3, but I will use it some on my Df. My question is what I should enter as the aperture on the Df when I enter the lens information into the non cpu settings. Thanks.</p>

<p>Hi Tom, it could be a simple fix like cleaning the battery compartment. I have had several cameras that I thought were inoperable but worked fine after cleaning the contacts in the battery compartment. I have used pencil erasers to help clean. I hope it works again for you.</p>

<p>I sometimes test cameras for a local thrift store and occasionally buy them. I came across a Yashica dental eye (the first version) that has had the battery compartment removed. I know that the shutter is mechanical and the battery pack was for the ringlight. I was wondering if anyone knows what the shutter speed is and what the effective apertures are at different magnification ratios. I can't think of a practical way to use a camera with no aperture or shutter speed controls, but it would be interesting to try. The camera has a hot shoe, but it will not fire an external flash.</p>

<p>I have tried several flashes on it. I currently have a K1000 and a Spotmatic and they work fine. I have had several other manual Pentax cameras in the past and the MX is the only model I have had issues with. If not for the sync issues, the MX's would be my all time favorite pentax. I don't use flash much, but it's nice to have when needed.</p>