jackaldridge

<p>Thanks guys, but I've wiped everything clean three times and still problems...waiting for an email response from Nik...</p>

<p>I saw one thread where another user is having 64 bit crashes. Anyone else? I'm using an iMac with the complete Nik filter package...having unexpected crashes with all the filters at different times in spite of several reinstalls. Never any problems with the 32 bit programs, and it seems to do it more if I open in CS5 as a smart object. Anyone else? (By the way I tried phone support already... not sure what country I called but they are still using tin cans and string for phone service... totally unable to help...)</p>

<p>David... I did read my own post...hard not to do since you quoted it...<br>

Thanks anyway... not really a big deal...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>To someone that's never filled a 2GB card in one shoot, it may be obvious, but to the rest of us it's not so clear...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>David....could you elaborate on your comment? Not sure I get your point here...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>...or the 2GB card is less risky than using a larger 8 or 16GB where you might lose more work should something go wrong?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Lose one card with all your important photos and the answer to your question becomes pretty obvious...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"A digital camera would never record images like this straight out of the camera. They have been set up to produce flat, unsharpened images to get the most data during capture."</p>

</blockquote>

<p><br />Most high-end cameras have "Picture Styles" or some method of inceasing contrast, sharpness, saturation, etc....(for jpeg captures...not RAW). I agree there has been post-processing done here, but digital capture does not necessarily have to be flat or unsharpened...</p>

<p>"We are new to the biz and I need your advice. Should we offer her a refund? 100%? 50%? Has anything like this EVER happened to anyone else in the business? [Please say yes.] In what cases has anyone had to offer a refund before?"<br />The questions you ask here are an indication that you are indeed 'new to the biz'.<br>

This isn't a question of whether your photos can be 'fixed' or not. The real issue is the client who is not pleased with your work...<br />I would suggest to you that the decision you make now will set the tone for your business from now on...either you will be professional and forthright in your attempts to deal with people or not...<br />The fact that there is a disagreement between you and your business partner could be based on many different things (i.e he may dispute the refund because of the amount of time that has passed since the wedding was done and the request for a refund...), but if the dispute is over whether or not to make a refund when your work isn't satisfactory then you have a real problem. If you have one view on this matter and your partner has another you may be better off working on your own or with someone who shares your views.<br />Your work product is your signature for all the world to see. If you claim professional status and can't achieve it the world will let you know rather quickly...</p>

<p>There is no secret to what you want to learn..<br>

You did the right thing by practicing in the light....<br>

I've loaded literally thousands of rolls into stainless steel reels without problems...<br>

And they clean much easier in my opinion...<br>

Pretty soon you'll be a pro! :-)</p>

<p>Interesting thread....<br>

I've always pronounced it Caaaaa...Nunnnn....<br>

But thanks for the info... :-)</p>

<p>Tom,<br />I couldn't get your link to work, but did find a similar method here...<br /><a href="http://help.adobe.com/en_US/photoshop/cs/using/WSA75837E3-FE05-4f86-A9DF-3C0DD602CA63a.html">http://help.adobe.com/en_US/photoshop/cs/using/WSA75837E3-FE05-4f86-A9DF-3C0DD602CA63a.html</a></p>

<p>Try this link:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.msjphotography.com/index.php/2009/05/photoshop-workbench-178-the-power-of-a-blur-vignette/">http://www.msjphotography.com/index.php/2009/05/photoshop-workbench-178-the-power-of-a-blur-vignette/</a></p>

<p>There are other examples on the same site (which is a very good site for learning this and many other PS techniques...)</p>

<p>Advanced mode gives you more control. As you run in advanced mode the program tells you whether brightness is too high or too low depending on the parameters you choose as you go through the calibration (I don't know if easy mode does the same...never used it...). On my iMac I have to use a program called 'shades' (a free download...) to control brightness while calibration software is running...</p>

<p>Kristin,<br />I'm living proof you can blur an image at a shutter speed of 1/100.</p>

 

<p>Nigel,<br />Please tell me how moving the camera during a software process will affect the image?<br />Can you give me a reference to such a thing happening?<br />Thanks...</p>

<p>Welll......I heard.....Canon is going to make all their components available on an 'a la carte' basis....you'll be able to mix and match anything you want and make up your own camera just like you want it.<br>

It's rumored to be out next year...it's called the 5D Mk 4-1-11....</p>

<p>Dave,<br>

I would highly recommend using one OS or the other. I've used Parallels and was never satisfied with its functionality. Also used Boot Camp, which actually installed Windows on my MacBook Pro better than my PC could install Windows. I was still not satisfied with overall performance. It may have been how I split the machine, etc.<br>

Seems to me with the intricate shortcuts programs like Photoshop have it would be much easier to stick with one machine. If you do much processing in Photoshop at all those shortcuts can save a lot of time.<br>

The age-old debate over which OS to use goes on ad nauseam...but I would consider one or the other.</p>

 

<p>Photoflex! They're cheap and work great!<br>

You can also buy a special speedlight holder for 1 to 3 speedlights that will let you use an umbrella...just do a google search and you'll find it...</p>

<p>So what lenses and camera body(ies) are you talking about?</p>

<p>Ralph...used to feel the same as you about Alienware...But!<br />They have been really difficult for me to deal with.<br />Have a souped up machine I bought less that one year ago with a dead drive. When the RAID goes you're dead in the water!<br />And that's after waiting two months to get the machine in the first place....<br />Actually I think Alienware has been purchased by another company (maybe HP?), at least that's what my son told me (he designs networks and has dealth with them for a few years..)<br>

....things haven't been the same since...</p>

<p>Why not download the trial versions and see what works for your needs?</p>

<p>Send me the raw file and I'll process it later today...<br>

jackaldridge@suddenlink.net</p>

<p>So many brands..... so little time!</p>

<p>Additionally I did finally locate Patrick's response. Setting the Shades level at a set amount seems to me to defeat the purpose of using it. 85% might be perfect for one viewing situation, but not every situation. That would depend on ambient light. While I also understand Andrew's response in the same thread, using Shades as I measure ambient light during calibration and set brightness accordingly has worked well for me.</p>

<p>I don't get your answer... Most calibrating instruments set brightness as you go through the calibration (which is easily done with Shades)....at least that's how I use my software...</p>

<p>Ian,<br>

You might consider asking the photographer what process he uses...some don't mind telling you at all.</p>