jackaldridge

<p>Steve...I'll have to check this evening and see if my lens hood is visible at wide angles...but honestly I don't think it is.<br>

And...the lens hood I have is quite short...?</p>

<p>Eyes perceive...cameras record... and it makes no difference whether it's film or sensor.<br>

It takes a great photographer to see that! :-)</p>

<p>Take a look under lens corrections..."color fringing"....</p>

<p>William...I'm a little taken aback by your statement that the histogram you've shown is technically horrible (if that's what you meant...).<br>

Actually the histogram is technically great, with a very accurate representation of your photo. It shows good exposure and proper placement of middle tones for the subject at hand.<br>

Maybe I'm missing something here?</p>

<p>Edit on what appears to be the best screen. Use the Huey to calibrate that screen and hope for the best...<br>

I use one screen for the image and the other for the program, tools, etc....<br>

I don't see the prupose in having the image on both screens or trying to get the screens to match.<br>

The object usually is to try to get the screen you're editing on to match what you see in your prints...</p>

<p>Yes Ron.. I have a 5D Mkii and love live view.<br>

Haven't used it with my FD's but I will give it a try.<br>

Thanks for the suggestion...</p>

<p>Sorry...here's the first part...</p>

<p>http://www.sphoto.com/techinfo/histograms/histograms.htm</p>

<p>Try doing animals in the wild... :-)</p>

<p>here you go...<br>

http://www.sphoto.com/techinfo/histograms/histograms2.htm</p>

<p>If you do buy a 'not full-frame' sensor camera you will have a different field of view than you had with your 35mm film camera. Most crop sensor cameras are equivalent to 1.6x the focal length of your lens when you talk about field of view..<br>

I have several FD Canon lenses...I seldom use them on my Canon digital gear even though they are great lenses...my eyes just don't work as well and I have to use autofocus a lot (not possible with older lenses)...so that may enter into your decision as well...<br>

This is not a bad time to sell film gear... you may want to look at completed auctions on EBay to see if selling your lenses is an option...<br>

Just a few thoughts...</p>

 

<p>It helps to place your subject(s) far enough from the backdrop to keep it out of focus.<br>

You can also use post-processing to select the background color and make it whatever color you want (if you start with one-color backgrounds...)<br>

I've taken a lot of photos with simple daylight bulbs (5000K ... now available at Lowes) and the silver reflectors they sell. Be sure and select the right white balance for the lighting used...<br>

You can even select different wattage bulbs to achieve the lighting balance you want (but be warned...they don't put out tremendous amounts of light...)<br>

Anyway...a few thoughts for shoestring portraits... :-)</p>

<p>Gil's right...if you want to shoot and sell photos use the 'P' setting...if you're just shooting for fun you can use the 'A' setting ("amateur"...)</p>

<p>Bryanna,<br>

I never saw the original photo, but from what Charles described the photographer may have also used an "HDR" effect to make the eyes look the way they did.<br>

There are many examples of this technique and how to do it on this site...</p>

<p>I gave up on the Huey long ago...<br>

In this area you pretty much get what you pay for...</p>

<p>Actually I find the glossy screen on my iMac great... but hey that's just me.<br>

The MacBook Pro has a matte screen which I also like... in fact it makes no difference to me which machine I use.<br>

Most of the time I think the matte would be better on a laptop where you don't always have the option of controlling the viewing environment.</p>

<p>To the moderator...<br /> Please don't let this type of banter continue as it did the other day.<br /> In my opinion those of us who depend on photo.net for advice and counsel really don't need this again...</p>

<p>I have the June revision....<br>

Yes, it does just fine...</p>

<p>Josh,<br>

I have the 17 inch MacBook Pro ... laptop screens just change too much depending on viewing angle... I use an Apple Cinema screen with the MacBook... it's suitable for what I do...<br>

I have used a Raid configuration with two separate outboard drives on the MacBook Pro... easy to do...<br>

My MacBook Pro with extra RAM is every bit as fast as the latest iMac... at least for the work I do...<br>

Hope that helps...</p>

<p>An example like the one mentioned where eyes are not the focus of the photo...<br>

(By the way...this is just my opinion... :-)</p><div></div>

<p>I think the truth of the above statements lies in the shot itself. Most sports photography is done from a distance, and eyes aren't the main feature as you indicate.<br>

But.... and I think it's a big but... when facial shots are the photo (whether a statue, animal, or person) viewers expect to see sharp eyes.<br>

As humans we place a great deal of emphasis on eyes to determine many things...i.e. the truth of the person we are listening to, the potential for a threat, and so on... (after all...how many poker players [or foreigners!] wear sunglasses to hide their eyes...)<br>

If the photo warrants it...eyes have to be sharp...</p>

<div></div>

<p>Sharp eyes = good photo!<br>

Out of focus eyes = lousy photo (most of the time)<br>

Eyes without 'catchlights' often look dull and uninteresting... see if the eyes you like so much have good catchlights in them...</p>

<p>I use both...the laptop screen will not be adequate for professional work. If you use the laptop (which is great for portability) get a good secondary display (which decreases portability! :-). Computing speed isn't the question here...it's screen capability. The iMac screen is ok, but would not compare to a great extent with screens designed more for exact work and costing much more. As an amateur it is suitable for what I need.</p>

<p>Adam, <br>

Based on what you said it does sound like the author meant 'get familiar with one ISO',...but I suspect after getting used to that one ISO the author would want you to 'get used to other ISO settings as well'.<br>

As you increase the ISO you inevitably begin to increase noise in the image. Watching that happen as you change ISO can teach you a lot about your equipment.<br>

Understanding Exposure means just that....understanding what shutter speeds and f-stops you can use with the lighting conditions under which you are working. In many instances there would be no suitable way to obtain an image without changing ISO (after all....what if you didn't have your tripod with you?)...<br>

<strong><em>I don't believe Peterson ever meant 'just use one ISO'...I think he meant 'learn the properties of each ISO setting for your equipment'...</em></strong></p>

<p> </p>

<p>Let me know if you do find something more 'magical'....I'd like to see it.... :-)</p>

<p>Use the adjustment brush in the 'Develope" module...</p>