megan_stone

<p>thank you everyone for your comments. i highly doubt i will be able to light 4 people, without any movement at all - with just candles and fire. they are in the background behind my subjects.<br>

i just wanted to make sure, that if i dropped my shutter speed to 40 or 50 which is what i have done in order to capture atmospheric feel in the fire etc...... that still wouldn't risk any movement with my subjects.<br>

i am dealing with 4 people (a group portrait).</p>

<p>i am setting up for a shoot that i have tomorrow. it is a night shoot (group portrait - 4 people). the set-up is indoor, with a fireplace in the background, some candles & a few spots lighting up some other accessories in the background.<br>

i have set up my studio lights and the setting at the moment is ISO200, F8 @125. although the subject area is nicely lit at this setting, the ambient lights, especially the fire ... are almost non-existent. the fire looks very weak. i have tried to keep everything the same but brought down the shutter speed to 40 ... suddenly the ambient light has come through and the fire looks <strong>full & strong</strong>.<br>

my question is: would that be correct technically? to bring down the shutter speed to 40 or less? or do i then risk movement in my subjects?<br>

is it possible to maintain an atmospheric feeling ... and not risking subject movement?</p>

<p>much thanks.</p>

<p>- Ideally in San Francisco</p>

<p>I know that Brooks Institute is probably the best photography school in California.If any other names of photography/art schools (reputable ones) can be passed on, I would reallyappreciate it. I am looking into taking on a short course/workshop etc in California. Even a reputable art school that has strong photography courses would be good to know about . Many thanks</p>

<p>Many thanks </p>

<p>wow - it was the lens hood. i've just removed it.<br>

so am i not able to use a hood with wide focal lengths?</p>

<p>gosh, i may need to reshoot. i was so restricted with my shots</p>

<p>I had a shoot today - using my D700 and 17-35mm lens which i have used on numerous occasions before.<br>

For some reason today, whenever I would shoot at a wider focal length, i would get dreadful vingetting.<br>

Is this set in my camera ? Or is it my lens? Why is this happening and how do i get rid of it?</p>

<p>many thanks </p>

<p>I have recently bought a new computer (Mac) ... and it only just occurred to me that my printer driver needs to be re-installed. I can't seem to find the right download - Can anyone send me the link for this?</p>

<p>I have a MacBook Pro (Lion) and Epson Stylus Pro 3800 ... need the Epson driver to download.</p>

<p>much thanks</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I have downloaded the iProfiler ... ( i have the eye-one Display2)<br>

when i plug in my eye-one (USB) .. it doesn't seem to be recognized. am i still missing something?</p>

<p>Thank you very much.</p>

<p>I'm confused as to what I need to download from that list on the link you provided?!</p>

 

<p>i had asked (when purchasing) if i needed anything else as i needed to use it for Wireless .. and i was told that i needed nothing else!</p>

<p>now i'm confused - what is it exaclty that i need? </p>

<p>I have had the software for my Eye One Display on my Powerbook G4 ... I have recently replaced my laptop with a MacBook Pro. <br>

I'm trying to install the software again - but getting the following message: You can't open the application Eye-One because PowerPC applications are no longer supported.</p>

<p>What does this mean? Is there anything i can download from the internet?</p>

<p>Please advise . Many thanks.</p>

<p>I have been using my PocketWizard Plus II with my studio lights & a basic Sekonic light meter with a chord.<br>

I have recently bought the Sekonic Flash Master L-358 ... so that I can use it wirelessly.</p>

<p>I can't seem to work out how to set it up in order to trigger my lights wirelessly. Please advise. What settings should my PocketWizards be set on and what to do with my Light Meter. I go through the Modes on it, and can't seem to find a wireless trigger. Am i missing something?</p>

<p>Many thanks.</p>

<p>i mainly do portrait photography, private comissions. the D700 is producing what i need, i print A3+ size prints - wondering if it can handle A2 prints. yes, i have prime lenses, so beautiful glass.</p>

<p>i really loved the Fuji X100, my only issue with it is the fixed wide angle lens which is why i then looked at the X10 .. and compared it to the canon G12.<br>

need an excellent camera to capture great images, in raw, but one i can just toss in my handbag when i need.</p>

<p>thank you</p>

<p>i am currently using the nikon d700 for my work - thinking about upgrading to the d800. the salesperson recommended the d800e ... im wondering if the difference in quality is really that visible, or whether the D800 will do?!</p>

<p>also, hoping to buy a very good point and shoot ... looked at the G12 , Fuji X10 and Fuji X100 .. i need a camera to merely toss in my handbage and go - but to still be able to capture great images.. socially, as well as travel photography that i can then print quality photographs from. any thoughts? experiences?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>i have a canon G7 that my brother gave me recently (his old camera) .. is it worth selling it and buying the G12 ? or are they pretty much just as good? would it be worth it, getting the G12 ?</p>

<p>i am so confused by all the various tips i'm getting on this - too scared to mess things up the day of the shoot. so i will set up lighting normally for my subject, ignoring the background and deal with that in post-production :s</p>

<p>thank you all. michael, but if i slow down my shutter speed - will that not create motion blur.<br>

i plan on having my camera on a tripod but a child is involved in this shot ... will a slow shutter speed not capture movement.<br>

so you are basically saying ... set my flash to whatever i want - so for example (iso 200) F5.6 @ 125<br>

and then, i should start dropping the shutter speed till i get the result i want? so i might be shooting at 80 for example. movement really concerns me in this case - or will the flash freeze it?</p>

<p>not sure i understand what u mean - you mean without adding any fill flash?<br>

I need some flash as i'm dealing with two people an adult and a child actually - some possible movement.<br>

that's my concern though, if i only meter my subject and let the background burn out on its own, then i'm worried the back will be too bright anyway .. and create that lining/halo effect around my subjects. does that make sense? as the f-stop between each might be too large .. high contrast.</p>

<p>i am preparing for a photoshoot that i have coming up. I have visited the location and know what i want to do, but struggling slightly with how i should set up my lights to get the result i am after.</p>

<p>I plan on placing my subject, leaning against the edge of a doorway. Behind him (about 10m) is a large french window. There are trees etc outside. I would like to overexpose the window so that none of the outside area shows - only white. In this case, I know I should expose for the window light, set the camera at that and add a bit of fill-flash.</p>

<p>Question is - how much of a difference in f-stop should there be between the window light and my fill flash.<br>

also my concern is, with such a high contrast dynamic range - i risk ending up with that strange halo/line around my subject in areas where the window falls right behind him. how do i make sure that doesnt happen. Do i need to add another back light as strong as the window light.</p>

<p>please help.</p>

<p>or should i expose normally and then white that area out in photoshop?</p>

<p>i have recently done a family photo for a client .. and although all members look fab, one of the members that is sitting on a cushioned chair, looks very very slightly sucked in (down). something probably only i am noticing. but i would like to give her a bit of a lift, so that she looks more prominent in the image. how can i do that. i have tried selecting her waist upwards.. then transform, then scale... shift-pull up .... but i feel like its scaling everything, including the head - rather than keeping all as is and just giving her a lift.... any tips?</p>

<p>thank you all - its looking much better.<br>

does one adjust the colour cast first or after exposure/levels?<br>

this is what i do when i open my image .. sharpening .. levels ... and then wanted to do colour cast. or should i leave colour cast all the way till one of my final steps before printing?</p>

<p>thank you. when i click on the white bit of the shirt .. do i click on pure white area or .. shadow/wrinkle area?</p>

<p>also, what about if i want to try making sure the skin tone is right... how do i do that? instead of the white shirt.<br>

to check color cast on skin tone . please help</p>

<p>hi, im working on a portrait i took of my subject.. sitting outside, daylight, by the pool .. and added a touch of fill flash. it seems to still have a bit of a blue cast on it. my subject is wearing a white shirt.. is it enough to add a curves layer , and with the white eyedropper.... click somewhere on th shirt.... it seems to now give a a subtle yellow tint. what are good steps to take to remove color cast? i cant seem to get it right.. its going tfrom blue to yellow... from what i can see. </p>

<p>i have done a portrait of someone with their home in the background using my 50mm lens.<br>

it seems that the sides of the frame... the home's walls are not vertical/straight.<br>

i have tried selecting the entire image, transform then Skew. but it seems to also affect the center of the image/portrait... how can i straighten the lines without affecting my subject?</p>

<p>many thanks</p>

<p>sadly i'm unable to post a sample :(<br>

but it just occurred to me that the reflected area that is concerning me, is a few steps down from the shooting area - which might explain part of the problem. the subject looks taller than the brick wall. but i suppose the lower height, plus the reflection distance, gives it a small appearance</p>