megan_stone

<p>maybe i'll just set a sublte gaussian blur ... a very subtle one.</p>

<p>thank you. i'm wondering what method can be used in CS5 ?</p>

<p>i've tried setting the white & black points and finding them through the threshold method etc. but that seemed to have really remove contrast from my image ... do i then just adjust the levels again?<br>

the average method really seemed to give a better result.</p>

<p>im confused </p>

<p>I am unable to post the photo for privacy issues.<br>

I think I have finally come to an understanding of this process - but still stuck on one final issue.<br>

I am basically working on a portrait, in client's home. It is shot in front of a fireplace/bookshelf unit. Therefore, foreground of image one row of tiles, then the sitter, 5/6 more tiles behind the sitter and then the unit ... so there is nothing that goes any further than the unit.<br>

What I am struggling with - is when I apply the gradient tool to my blur ... the blur is increasing as it goes higher up on the bookshelf ... naturally that is wrong - as the entire background is on one focal plane.<br>

Which gradient tool should I use here ? Or what other method can i apply .. so that the gradual depth of field is seen initially in the foreground, then sharpens on the sitter.. then gradually increases on the tiles behind the sitter and then at its maximum for the bookshelf?<br>

Thank you for the help. </p>

<p>thank you tom - but can it be applied in normal lighting situations?<br>

can you propose another method for colour correction? i deal with portrait photography</p>

<p>many thanks</p>

<p>ofcourse.<br>

duplicate background<br>

filter - blur - average .... covers the image with an average tone of the cast.<br>

new adjustments .. Levels .... with the midgrey eye dropper, click on the image area (now covered with one colour), it will adjust to a grey tone .... trash the background copy and adjust final details with opacity and levels</p>

<p>i've just read about & tried the colour correction technique using the blur filter -- then Average .. worked wonders. finally</p>

<p>i still can't work out how to do it - tried to follow those instructions.</p>

<p>any other tutorials? :(</p>

<p>i'm editing a family portrait - almost done, but i feel there is a colour cast. I have looked up various colour correction techniques (using threshold) to determine the highlights, shadows, etc. but i feel that once I do all of that - I end up with quite a low contrast image .. the colour cast seems to be removed, but contrast is low - is that normal? do i then adjust in Levels?</p>

<p>i've recently shot a portrait ... but had to shoot it at F8 .. therefore, my foreground & background are quite sharp. i would like to create shallow depth of field in CS5 ... i heard there is a way using the gradient tool to make it realistic and gradual .. but dont know the exact steps - please help.</p>

<p>thank you william - i will give that a go.<br>

what if i freeze mask the area surrounding the person standing .. would that help? so that not everything is affected? <br>

my question is .. if for example only a small part of his right shoulder (further away from camera) is showing, .. therefore (certain pixels missing) .. how will that adjust with the tip you gave me? one cant bring in those pixels. correct?</p>

<p>i've recently wrapped up a family portrait. i'm happy with the result of all sitters ... some sitting, one standing. ideally, i would really like the angle of the person standing to be slightly adjusted so that the right shoulder (further away from the camera) .. is not angled as far as it is. so i would like to bring in the right shoulder a touch more ... so twisting the entire body. is this at all possible with photoshop?</p>

<p>thank you.</p>

<p>thank you dave - very helpful.<br>

the teenagers are sitting right on the floor, leaning against the chair.<br>

i do have quite a lot of space, and will be using my 85mm lens.<br>

thank you - i will make sure i set it just below the standing person's eyes and angle it down<br>

slightly if needed. many thanks</p>

<p>i suppose i really just need it for the first few shots - to have a look at the image on a larger screen, check the histogram and then i will most likely disconnect it and shoot normally perhaps.</p>

<p>i have it set-up so that it saves to a file, that i have open in Bridge .. that way i can browse there and open them in RAW if i need to</p>

<p>i will be doing a family portrait this week. the composition is as follows: when adult sitting on an armchair, another adult standing behind him and 2 teenagers (16yrs old) nicely composed on the floor to wrap the compostion up. i am struggling as to what height i should have the camera at on the tripod.<br>

slightly above eye level of the seater person? or eye level of the person standing and therefore very slightly angled down?</p>

<p>thank you</p>

<p>michael - i just tested it out with a friend and her camera/computer. Image Capture is showing the photos taken on the screen as columns of thumbnails of the photos ... not a screen size image with editing options and a histogram - ideally</p>

<p>thank you - i will check it out later when back in the studio.<br>

does the image capture show a Histogram as well?</p>

<p>thank you alan - i've downloaded sofortbild and it works :) my only question is - am i not able to go through the images taken via sofortbild .. for example to quickly compare one shot and another after a minor adjustment? does it only show the last shot image without the ability to browse previous ones? thank you</p>

<p>and i have CameraRaw ..but no lightroom</p>

<p>yes tethering.</p>

<p>i dont have lightroom. Bridge & CS5<br>

someone mentioned this free download for MACS .. Sofortbild - does anyone have any experience with it?</p>

<p>I would like to start tithering during my photoshoots. Do i need to purchase a specific application? I use a Nikon D700 and a new MacBook Pro.</p>

<p>Or are there any reliable free softwares that i can download and then use a USB cable to attach camera to laptop?</p>

<p>thank you for any help</p>

<p>thank you for your tips - very helpful.</p>

<p>how does lighting affect such a pose? tips would be much appreciated.</p>

<p>i am using a tripod - maybe a release chord as well now that i think about it. but the suggestion to take a shot of the background with no one in it as i like it is a good idea. there are times where i very slightly re-frame, change the position of camera slightly to the left or right - but i suppose i'll still be able to blend in as long as its not a huge shift in composition. correct? </p>

<p>thank you for that nathan - so i will be safe dropping my shutter speed to 40 or 50 photographing a portrait of 4 people ... i'm sure they will move slightly here and there while i photograph - but no movement will be captured - correct? the flash will totally freeze it. is that right?</p>

<p>should i slow down the shutter speed AND set it to rear-sync? or leave shutter speed at 125 and set it to rear-sync? or totally ignore rear-sync?</p>

<p>I am doing a portrait for a woman sitting on an armchair, at a slight angle to the camera. would it be more flattering for the lines and contour of her body (photographically) if she sits with one leg crossed over the other towards the camera or away from the camera? which one gives a more slimming and flattering look?</p>

<p>much thanks</p>