peter_arbib1

1967 BP Nikon F (DE-1) 1979 Nikon F2 (DP-1, DE-1, DW-1) F2 and DP-1 has been overhauled by Sover Wong, DP-1 also has new CDS cells. I shoot TMax 400 in both.

What a shame? for what?

@dennisbrown, IE: Nikon snap-on hoods on my old Nikkors... NO WAY, Nikon did make regular screw-on hoods also, but are harder to find.(I have one for my 1972 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S that is Nikon made for that lens). That is all I use on my older non AF Nikkors. Filters are OK, I shoot B&W only, (color is digital), But the palm of my hand in front of my lens when I am walking about is also good protection also, and a hard bump on my hand won't leave broken hand scratching my front element, as a shattered filter can. (A habit from the rangefinder days to protect the shutter from Sun Pin-hole damage)

And who makes FLOWER HOODS for Primes? generic sized in different mm screw-ins.... for 24mm, 28mm, 35mm, 40mm, 50mm, 85mm, 105mm.... FF lenses

I use Back lens caps for storage.

I only use PRIMES, no need for FLOWER hoods, BTW, Flower hoods are made to save costs. the design is the least amount needed to give minimum lens shading from light. that is why the side pedals are so small to prevent corner darkening so the upper and lower pedals can be made longer. Only good for short Zooms, because it allows the top and bottom pedals to be longer than a round hood on a short zoom could provide. But after about the 100mm (fov), Flower Hoods are not needed. The smaller pedals make sure the corners are not darkened, but they are only effective for shorter focal lengths.

You're on! I cup the palm of my hand over the front of my lens, when just walking about. And I don't let my camera "swing about freely" around my neck. I buy all my lenses used, and I check the REAR element first.... That is where a scratch CAN affect IQ, a lot more than a front scratch can. The front element and block is for gathering light then guiding the light to the REAR Block., The REAR Block focuses the light on the image plane, therefore any scratches on that can affect IQ in sharpness. The FRONT element scratches affect flare mostly, a good lens hood will offset that.

Neither Don't use filters.... I do use lens hoods always, ONLY OEM Nikon Hoods! Screw In type, Some were hard to find because Nikon liked snap-on early on, and made some screw-on for popular lenses. The Screw-on for my 1971 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S was a hard one to find. Because collectors buy then up quickly. Nikon Hoods are fluted, not straight.

I keep it VERY SIMPLE..... Nikon F or F2 (with DE-1 pentaprism) I carry One Lens on the camera: Nikon: 24mm, or 28mm, or 35mm.... depending on my mood TMax 400, 3-5 rolls Minolta III meter, or I use "Lightmeter" on my Android... paid version NO CAMERA BAG EVER!

@orsetto Thanks for such a thoughtful reply, You have touched on all the different issues w/o a doubt. I have used Fuji as my digital before, I had the XE-2 for a few years, then went to the X100T. So, If I decide to go with a digital again, I'd get a used X-Pro 2 for my Nikkors. A used Nikon DSLR is too crippled. The X-Pro 2 has great "focus peaking with a magnified image" and the live view is great also. I have picked my Nikkors carefully, for performous and sharpness, not speed in most cases. It is good to have a couple of fast lenses in usable focal lengths though. (35mm f/2 "O", 50mm f/1.4 "S")

Are you using an enlarger to make a traditional wet print? Or are you going to scan the frame and print on your computer printer? With an enlarger, you will need some kind of roll-film holder setup.... To hold the uncut roll. With a scanner, you can just place the film across the scanner glass and close the lid. having the film roll rolled up on each side outside the scanner. Make sure you can scan a negative/positive directly on the glass

That is all I use, 1:1 previews with Smart previews also.....

I do need to get a larger external drive.....I have a 2tb (3/4 full, mostly photos) now, but, I'll get a 8tb or 12tb My Library has 75k in photos. (but I keep the RAW, Lr JPG, and Ps JPG if I require Ps editing I thought there was a "delete in XX days... but I can't find it.... Yes, rebuilding ALL previews would a LONG TIME! Best leave it alone.......

From what I understand, Lr builds these files when needed, So, if I delete them, Lr should rebuild them when I open a folder that I haven't edited for a long time. I do have a finished JPG of all the edited files. I could recover over 6GB of space by deleting them. Folders that I haven't used and may not open them in Lr for a while, I see no reason to save these previews.......My external hard drive has 485GB free on a 1.8TB drive. Not sure if setting a 30day limit in the setting is long enough. Advise please.

most likely.......

I did own an XE-2 with an FX to Nikon adapter when I owned a 24 and 50 with my FM2n Then I sold it and got a X100T, then I I needed to sell that to pay for a car repair :( I had an F2 and DP-1 that both needed a service... so after I recovered from the car repair financially, Off to Sover Wong both went. I then decided to add a few more lenses for the F2, and bought a 28/3.5 Ai, 35/2 O, and 105/2.5 P plus a DE-1 for the F2 :D I just bought a black paint 1967 Nikon F body, an using an F2 DW-1 w/o the name plate I considered another XE-2, but, the X-Pro 2 I really like, (similar to the X100T with interchangeable lenses and a newer sensor), but the used price is still too high :( So I have been considering a used Nikon DSLR, FX or DX... but, seems like focusing may be an issue with some lenses, and focusing screens are not made like the SLR screens AFAIK.. Then someone suggested a Canon 5D with a cheap adapter, apparently they have better manual focusing with non-AF lenses (lol) NIkons rumored FX mirrorless sound like a $1.2K to $2k camera..... out of my few hundred dollar range...... Some suggested the D700.... but again, out of my budget, o_O

Well, I might get them filed down... there are not collectors, but, the 1971 35mm f/2 Nikkor O, 1972 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S chrome nose, and the 1971 105mm f/2.5 Nikkor P (scalloped medal focusing ring and f/32) are classics though. Thinking I might go that road if I get a Nikon DSLR...but I would have to up my budget to the $450-600 range

Using a focus aid stopped down is not a big deal, did it with my Fuji X-E2, I have a Minolta III meter, so, I don't expect to use a meter in a DSLR.. just like how I meter with my Nikon F and F2 with the DE-1 pentaprisms If I could find the Ai kits, I would change out the mount... just don't want to cutaway the mount bob whites way... not as a collector, just not my style for a modifier.

That's good enough... I mainly use 28/35/50 on my F and F2, with a 1.5x crop.... 24/28/35, plus I am not a "wide-open" shooter, I shoot from f/8-f16, so the focus error won't show in most cases.

Okay, good to know, I am reading DPR review on the D5100, seems like any MF lens that is f/5.6 of faster will allow the Electronic RF to work. The D5100 seems like a good deal under $200-300 used, though, the D5200 with a 24mp sensor is a nice jump for $325-400 used..... I didn't really think I would find what I wanted, This thread has educated me for sure!

Do the lens need to have contacts to use the electronic RF in MF? Since I think it would be optical anyway. My Fuji XE2 had focus peaking that worked even with adapted lenses that had no electrical connection, So I assume Nikons Electronic RF should work also.....?

From what I hear, some older models do not even have the Ai Pin, but use the contacts to key the f/stop of the AF lenses. So there should be no mechanical hazard mounting a Pre-Ai lens on them. Promising.... Yes I posted in 2 other forums, more references help filter out the bad ones. Thanks for the links above.

So the D40x has fold-away Ai pin on the camera's lens mount?

Even the D2, D3, and D4 can't mount Pre-Ai lenses! Arggggg..... I would like to stay with Nikon for a Digital, but, looks like I will need to go to a different mirrorless brand...... I'm sure the Nikon Mirrorless (if they make one) won't be much more than a so-so consumer grade body....

I checked, and it seems only the Df has a fold up Ai pin....Great camera, too far out my budget. No Dxx or Dxxx models? I own 3 N/ai lenses: 35mm f/2 Nikkor O, 50mm f/1.4 Nikkor S, 105mm f/2.5 Nikkor P + 2 Ai/s lenses: 24mm f/2.8 Ais, 28mm f/3.5 Ai I will not modify my N/Ai lenses, I use a 1967 Nikon F and 1979 Nikon F2 as my main cameras. I would like to consider an older Nikon DSLR that I can use in manual mode obviously. A few hundred bucks is in my budget. I thought maybe a D200 might, but no....