glen_h

Drones are not allowed in US National Parks. It seems that they reduce the natural experience for other users. They are not allowed in many city parks for the same reason. City parks near my require a permit for commercial photographers, even if the photographs are for personal use. That is, photo sessions by commercial photographers. I suspect it it looks like commercial photography, using tripods, lighting devices, and such, many will restrict it. I was at a museum some years ago, that required a free permit for non-commercial photography. I got my permit, but it was covered by my coat. I was asked about it, and had to show it. Parking garages might be city owned, but contracted out. That might allow the contractor to set the rules.

There are still some smaller labs around that do digital prints, sometimes on actual light sensitive paper. For smaller prints, dye sublimation isn't so unusual. I have used Shutterfly, Printerpix, and Snapfish, mostly for non-prints, such as mugs or calendars, but also for prints. All three have sales fairly often, sometimes a lot cheaper than list price! Maybe not museum quality, but plenty good enough for home walls.

Store near me sells HP5+ for USD117.00/30.5m roll. Delta 400 for USD96.00/30.5m roll. Delta 100 only USD74.00/30.5m roll. Kodak 400TX (that is, Tri-X) for USD182.00/30.5m roll. TMax400 only USD138.00/30.5m roll. In some cases, that costs more that the appropriate number of 135-36 rolls.

I have some 5R flashbulbs that I got from a Goodwill auction. Now, to find a use for them.

Cathlamet ferry from Oregon to Washington state.

I did 5247 in C-41 once, and the rem-jet came of easily in the rinse.

Tamron AF 18-270 zoom at 270mm. And a very new, new moon.

He mentioned one minute agitation interval, which the Tri-X data sheet recommends for large (3 gallon) tanks. He didn't say why he was using one minute agitation intervals, though. Even if he didn't, others might want to know what "large tank" means.

When I first saw "large tank", and I had a little 35mm Nikor, I thought it meant maybe a four-reel Nikor. That seemed large to me at the time. But then later I learned about the 3 gallon tanks you mean, though haven't used one. But yes, I was wondering where the OP got the idea of 1 minute interval for small tanks.

Midnight in Pasadena

Lit by a full moon on TMax3200, pushed. 1s at f/3.8 as I didn't bring a cable release for a longer exposure.

The time on the official data sheet for small tank (30 seconds) to large (60 seconds) goes from 9:45 to 11:00. That, in combination with, as you note "slo-mo figure-of-eight" motion, might be enough. And maybe the film was slightly underexposed, and the thermometer is just a little bit off. All adding up in the same direction. Any one of those might not be noticed.

As I noted previously, the data sheet is here: https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/default/files/files/resources/f4017_TriX.pdf and it recommends agitation every 30 seconds for small tank. What they call large tank is a really large tank, big enough for many rolls of film, maybe a gallon or two. And the time is a little longer. Exactly how underdeveloped it is with 60 second agitation is hard to say, but it might be enough. And then there is how much you actually do in your 10 seconds.

I think I did it once with prints. Yes hours. Maybe noticeable in one hour.

They do tent to get a small amount of wrinkle or dent, but still work fine. If you poke a finger through, I suspect either cloth or metal won't survive. The cloth shutters get pinholes if you point the lens toward the sun too long. My dad explained that to me when I was young. I have a Canon II with a shutter pinhole, which otherwise works fine. But yes, the adjustable viewfinder is nice, as I have a (non-Canon) 35mm lens, and the Canon 50/2.8. Well, my dad bought the camera new when I was about one.

Double exposing the negative has a different effect from double exposing the print, but both could be useful. Reminds me, though. Consider taking two digital color images, and then adding them together. That is, the digital equivalent of a double exposure. Is there a mathematical operation that will separate them again? Consider that if you look at one, you can often figure out what parts go together, especially when they are an unusual color. (I suspect it doesn't work in black and white.)

A small ferry boat at the pier.

Down the street with a Brownie 2/F on TMax100 late in the day

TMax3200 at 3200 in a Nikon F2

Jim Morrison

I bought TMax developer, as it is used for the highest EI values for TMax3200. I sometimes use it for other films, too. HC-110 is a long favorite for older film. That is, 10, 20, or 30 years old. Verichrome Pan works just fine at 50 years. (Some old film size is only available in VP.) Otherwise, there is a difference between condenser and diffusion enlargers, in the contrast as seen by the print. But with VC paper, you can adjust however you want.

I never tried to estimate development based on frame numbers, other than PanF+ which is known to have poor latent image keeping, and they do tend to get light. Data sheet is here: https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/default/files/files/resources/f4017_TriX.pdf Tri-X, and its develpment time, have changed over the years, which people who like to use antique film sometimes need to know. Yours should agree with above. Might be good to check your meter and camera shutter and aperture. Otherwise, you might try a different developer.