vernon_jenewein

Take up spool size should not be a factor. Wouldn't matter if the roll ended up the size of a full roll or toilet paper. The gears determine how much advances from one frame to the next, not clutch or anything else. The camera body winds the next frame and does so by precise number of movement of teeth. How, exactly, does the camera "know" that there is film in the magazine? An empty insert does not advance film numbers, nor does it cause the body to be ready for the next picture. There is no apparent means of the film insert to know when film is in there and to signal to the camera that there is film in the holder that I could see. Vern

There is no spacing errors because Bronica uses a "gear" system. If anything you might get an extra exposure, but don't count on it. I took apart both a 220 and 120 insert, specifically, the pressure plate. I measured both the pressure plate, the screw with the plastic spacer, etc. Depth of the amount that the plates recess when pressed, etc. I could not find enough difference , < 0.001" in any measurements using a digital caliper. Baffles me that there would be more issues with 120 (with it's paper backing) used in a 220 film insert over the 120 insert. Vern

Guys! I hate to tell you this but it is not GLASS. Unless they used a different focusing screen on the SQ-A. I just took out the focusing screen of my SQ-Ai and it's PLASTIC. Very light (lighter than glass) and I can bend it in my fingers. Glass don't bend. They're easy to take out and replace/swap. Just take off the viewfinder/prism move the 2 tabs (one on each side of the viewing screen back. They are a hold down and once you do that you can merely push down on the corner with a pencil tip and it will tilt allowing you to take it out. Piece of cake. Ethyl Alcohol (vodka - Everclear) might work. Definitely don't use Acetone. or some other heavy duty cleaners or you will permanently damage that viewing screen (did I mention it's PLASTIC). If I were to try this, I'd try the alcohol on the very small corner of the whole Fresnel screen, like a tab where there is no actual viewing, first. If the alcohol has no adverse effect on it there, then try it on just a small part of the marker. Bet it's one of those felt tip permanent markers, in which case it is probably already embedded into the plastic. Hope this helps. Vern

No, Walter, look here: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?atclk=Category_Developing+%26+Processing+Supplies&sts=ma&ci=761&N=4294204213&Ntt=220+darkroom+reel I think I have one of these in my darkroom supplies out in the shed. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40287-REG/Paterson_PTP119_Auto_Load_Adjustable_Reel.html/prm/alsVwDtl

Take off the back. Set the shutter for Multi Exposure on the right side. Set it for 2 seconds on the shutter and look in at the back when you trip the shutter. Does the mirror go all the way up and stay there? It kind of reminds me of when my Nikon F3 had an issue with the mirror going up during a shot and then bouncing down part way during the exposure. All the frames had no picture in 1/3 of the frames. Streaking make me think there is something rubbing on the film as it is advancing and marring the emulsion. I have seen this happen when you try to dry negatives or positives too fast by squeegeeing them. The emulsion is still soft and runs on you. Try a different processing lab.

The lack of good quality (unless you pay through the nose) of 120 backs on eBay may be a relationship to the lesser quantity of 220 films. Thanks, Mr Henderson and Mr. Monday for the insights. Yes, you could run out film (more than likely) after 12 exposures with 120 film and take pictures on nothing. Good news it won't cost you anything for printing those. Bad news, you will never get a chance to re-take those pictures you "thought" you had taken as a general rule. Light and subject are fleeting moments in time. There were no second takes with Zapruder and JFK filming... On Mr. Monday's comment above about whether there might be scratches, I don't think the back would have so much to do with it, as there is paper against the pressure plate in the 220 back. I think it would come from how well the rails and etc were on the body of the camera for any chance of scratching. Since I only have 120 film, then I must be diligent in paying attention to the counter. Taking off the back and finish winding the film after the count of 12 so that it can be exchanged.

I use 220 inserts all the time for 120 film. It makes it tighter, yes, but probably get a bit flatter film plane. Just remember that it's 12 not 24. If all you have is 120 film, then it's really a no brainer. You watch the film frame count and when it hits 12 you're done. You might even be able to get 13. Vern So, no, there is no ill effect with getting 120 film to run in a 220 back. 120 backs or inserts cheaper?? Really ?? There are 20:1 ratio of 220 backs on eBay at any given time, and most of the 120 backs are 3 X the cost. I just bought a nearly new 220 back SQ-Ai for 22.50 Try to find one that is 120 for that price!

Well, this is a link to B&W that expired in June of 2015 and cold stored, so it should be good as ever. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-Four-Boxes-of-Fuji-FP-3000B-Instant-Black-and-White-Film-Dated-06-2015-/222020383862?hash=item33b1723476:g:2AQAAOSwFMZWqOcH

I have an SQ-Ai with a metered prism. I also have both kinds of backs. Either of them work. It is just not as easy to see the film setting with the ones with the dial on top is all, but, they do "link" to the meter and send information about the film speed for accurate meter reading.

Would there be any issue with scratching the emulsion if the film is very tight against the rails?

I am using 120 film in 220 backs for my Bronica. I have read and been told that you can do this with 120 film (use in either 120 or 220 backs but the 220 film needs the 220 back or it won't get flat enough. It is just a little tighter rolling in a 220 back for me. Has anyone else done this? I would think that you would also get a flatter film that way as the specs are tighter for 220 than they are for 120 film on the pressure plate. Vern

Old thread but there is ALL KINDS of 220 film listed in eBay and all new dated as well IE not expired. This is of 2-12-16. Also I understand, and do, use 220 backs for loading 120 film. I understand you cannot do the reverse though.

I have seen some nice transparency (slide) film listed on eBay, but was wondering about what the life expectancy is of this type of film. I know negative film, if frozen, is good for years past it's expiration date, and the lower the ASA/ISO the better. And, if I remember right, B&W film is also good for a long time past expiration. Colder is better, frozen is best, refrigeration is next, sitting on shelf in home 3rd and sitting in high heat areas is the worst. Thanks!

Hernan, you said ... but it blinks the display when it's in Manual. So does mine. I have an SQ-Ai body and same metered prism. When you set it to ON and MANUAL mine blinks, and in AUTO is is solid shutter speed. When in AUTO you don't set the shutter speed, just put it to anything you want, 1/500 even and the camera will control the shutter speed according to the aperture that you select on the lens. DO NOT CONFUSE the sound of the mirror locking up to the actual shutter of the camera. They are 2 different things. The shutter is a leaf shutter and is VERY quiet. Turn on the meter, put it in manual mode and set your aperture at something small, like f11 or f16. Now point the camera at yourself (with a film back with no film, and lever set to multiple exposure (exposed red dot) and now look into the camera itself as you press the shutter, after the lens shutter is cocked by the winding crank. In auto it will set a pretty slow shutter and you will see the aperture blades, then a very slight sound and they disappear. That slight sound is the shutter closing from the indication off the meter. Give that a try. Hope that helps. Vern

I got in an accessory today for the SQ-Ai, a speed winder. I took off the crank on the right side to advance the film, added this holder and got everything aligned. Tried a few shots on a blank back in multi exposure mode. Works GREAT!!! I tried the meter and low and behold I can NOW press down a bit without tripping the shutter. I notice that this also has it's own on/off switch of sorts for the shutter release. I like that it has a hot shoe on the right side as well. I REALLY like that. Vern

I too, am looking. What if one soldered wires onto the terminal inside the handle and used the 9v standard battery? You can find those 9V battery terminals about everywhere and it might rattle inside, but the 9 Volt battery would be secured by that clip.

Dale Laboratories Hollywood Florida. I am just now looking at their scan costs. Then can develop and print 6X6 6X7 6x45. etc and give a CD or DVD of negatives or transparencies. Also you can supply them negative or transparency and they will scan it for you onto CD or DVD (archival) for 7.50 ea <50 $6.50 ea (51-100) $5.50 (101-999) and $5.00 ea for 1000+ Appx. 15 MB scans 4700 x 4700 for 6x6 or 5900 x 4800 from 6x7 This is for "Medium Resolution JPEG files. If you want "High Resolution" Pro Scans they are saved as TIFF files All this is right in the price sheet and mailers they just sent me. Plus , they develop color and B&W and print or develop only and you can order a CD of the developed images.Picture CD at the time is $18.00 in 120 film. $23.00 for 220 film. Got any questions you can call them at 800-327-1776 Their website: https://www.dalelabs.com/iprints_welcome.html No, I don't work for them, I am just passing this on to anyone.. ANYONE interested in their services. Great prices from my brochure and mailer I got in the mail. Vern

What Polaroid cameras used regular pack film, or better yet, which ones use the newer Fuji FP100C films? I know it's off topic, but I have a hemorrhoid back for my Bronica SQ-Ai camera. More interested in using film at the moment, but was just curious if anyone new a few models, other than the $2,000.00 Polaroid 600SE?

Late night and pain medication did not help with the title. It should have read "shutter release button VERY sensitive" If mine is typical, there are probably millions of photos taken that were a surprise. Wish it had a simple button to push to get the proper meter reading of shutter speed. Having it tied into the shutter release button is not a bad idea if the button had enough travel to be less of a PITA to keep from firing. I've had to depress shutter release buttons before on cameras to invoke the meter, but none of them have ever come close to this. It's like a double set trigger on a rifle that makes it a hair trigger when the front trigger is pulled to "set the trigger". Way to sensitive when I am struggling to see the little viewfinder image of the shutter speed at the moment. Vern

New Bronica SQ-AI (to me - last Thursday 2-4-16) and trying out the setting and shutter with blank film back, and using multi exposure mode to set the shutter. I have an AE-Prism Finder -S that has the On-Off switch on the left side and Manual-Auto on the right side. Just found out tonight that if I set it to "Auto" no matter what shutter speed is selected on the dial on the left, it sets the shutter according to the metered light and what the aperture is. But!!! I have had the darndest issue with trying to get a reading on the light meter and setting off the shutter. I try to very lightly touch the shutter and I can sometimes get the reading, IE 60, 125, 250, 30 so on. And other times as I am trying to get the shutter to read, KER-CHUNK the mirror goes up and the shutter releases. Is anyone else having this same issue? Or is mine just a very sensitive shutter release?