hernan_freschi

I'm trying to find a travel-friendly backpack for my gear. By travel friendly i mean: light and within max-carry-on-size limitations for most airlines has security/anti-pickpocketing features it's comfortable enough to use it as a general-use backpack at destination leaving some things at the hotel i also want to use it to carry, while traveling: a FF mirrorless such as Z7-II (currently i only have a D7100) 24-70 70-200 15-16 laptop maybe 14-24 maybe a fast prime a couple of filters some extra clothes while not traveling I'd like to be able to carry or store most of my other gear: flash/es 105 macro plates, etc i've been browsing around. I found a lowepro protactic 450 which seems to suit most of my needs but includes a lot of quick access (sides, top) zippers are not lockable not sure if the space inside is reconfigurable for "more than photography" it weighs over 2 kilos empty on the flip side, it seems to be very comfortable and includes a waist strap. there is also the peakdesign travel backpack but it's very expensive like most PD products it's modular, so besides the base price you need to buy "cubes" for the types of items you need to store does not seem to be as practical as the lowepro one it's heavy and with the required cubes it's heavier than the lowepro the big advantage of the peakdesign is that it includes anti pickpocketing features, such as the ability to tuck zippers in, and tie them to anchors inside the backpack. for the main zipper, it even includes a little loop which makes it impossible to quickly pull a zipper, but is able to be opened without much effort if you know how. it can also be "compressed" a little if you don't need all the space, which makes it good for walking around your destination with a slightly smaller backpack. what other alternatives do you recommend? so far the best i can come up with is just the protactic 450, and zip-tie some of the zippers to disable them semi-permanently but i'm not fully convinced.

I went ahead and just dunked my film in that straight replenisher solution. Here are the results: https://imgur.com/a/LU2nlEH The properly exposed photos are from a sunny day and were latent in that roll for 5 years. The rest of the photos I took last sunday on a very gray day (the lack of light is very obvious). The dark photos took a lot of fiddling with scanner curves and photoshop, but that's not the developer's problem, as shown by the properly exposed photos. The photo of the girl holding up a sign to her face only had a tiny amount of WB correction. The film is Portra 400 exposed at 400.

Hi Alan, I think you answered on StackExchange as well. Seems they are out of stock of developer starter. So I'll have to make do without it for a few weeks.

I recently bought a set of chemicals for Kodak C-41. All of them are replenishers. The salesman told me over the phone that "starters aren't really needed for hand processing, they are only for machine processing". I didn't believe this (I think it would be actually the opposite: a machine process would eventually "season itself" with film running through it. Anyways, I placed the order, and I didn't check the confirmation, but they removed both the bleach and developer starters. Can I still use the developer and bleach without starters? I understand some colors may be a bit off, but I'm willing to take the risk (the first roll will be for testing purposes mostly). I noticed though that starters will significantly dilute the chemicals: Preparing the full 5L of developer from my kit would yield 5L of "developer replenisher solution". To this solution, understand I'm supposed to add the whole 1L of solution of 660-1074 Developer Starter. So, if I prepare 1L of "developer replenisher solution", Would I need to dilute it further with around 200ml of water that would come from the developer starter (which I don't have), or should I just use this developer "straight"?

<p>Yes, I don't speak english because I'm from Argentina.<br> Which is the same reason I can't return the body or prism to KEH: Shipping will cost me about $100, which doesn't make sense for the $84 I paid for the body.</p>

<p>Yes, already have that manual.<br> I sent KEH an email, they haven't answered. I can't call because I don't speak english (I can type it just fine). <br> And yes, hah, the batteries are new and the battery check button works.</p>

<p>Yes, that's how I assumed it should work. Thanks for confirming this. It doesn't work in either mode (manual/auto) but it blinks the display when it's in Manual. That's about it.<br /><br />I spent some time today measuring the different contacts with the prism on and off. I identified a few of the signals but nothing more.<br> A SQ Repair manual would be great help. I found an ETRSi repair manual and it also has 10 pins for the connector but the signals aren't labeled.</p>

<p>Yes, I meant to say reflective. That's what I get from posting without reviewing.<br> The rest of your comment I don't agree with, but to each his own.</p>

<p>Yes, I read the manuals and there's nothing about this. I would guess it has to work like any other Aperture-priority control.<br> I can set the prism to MANUAL control and use my DSLR as an incident meter and it works. But it's annoying. I want to have the ability to do quick "snapshots" as well.</p>

<p>Hello,<br> I recently bought a SQ-Ai body from KEH, along with a metered prism. This prism has only two switches: ON/OFF and MANUAL/AUTO.<br> The problem I have is that the meter only seems to work when the film advance lever is operated. Right when the shutter is cocked. Then the exposure seems to be locked to whatever the camera measured at that moment.<br> For example: i can point my lens at F/2.8 to a bright scene and it will display "500". If I cover the lens with my hand it will still say 500. If I operate the shutter, advance the film with my hand still covering the lens, and half-press the shutter again. it will measure a low speed (only 2s-4s. sometimes "<" which means "too dark"). If i remove my hand and let the light in, it will still dispay the low speed.<br> But if i rotate the aperture dial, the speed is halved for every stop down.<br> <br />Could this be a problem with the camera body? I read the way to lock the exposure with these AE prisms is to use the mirror lock-up feature. So my theory is that whatever switch or lever the crank operates when advancing the film is only operated for a brief moment. So the AE barely has time to measure and lock once.</p>