vernon_jenewein

Tons of the Fuji for sale on eBay and Amazon and other camera outlets as well.

FWIW, I recently (Jan2016) bought 2 packs of LR44 batteries (4 each) at Dollar Tree for $1.00 each. I can throw them in the camera bag and have a spare set anytime. Alkaline. 25 cents a piece.

David H. at this link at ebay, they have put up, on the 3rd picture, a relationship between diopter and eyeglass correction, according to Bronica. Link is here -> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bronica-Diopter-For-ETR-SQ-or-GS-1-New-/231490392069? Here it shows for someone with a -2.00 correction in their glasses (meaning near sighted) the correct diopter is -3.5. I ordered one of that strength from them. :)

ADDENDUM: I wear glasses that are -2.50 for my right eye to correct for near sighted. According to Nikon I could probably be better off with a -3.0 diopter for the Bronica lens, reference this link: https://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/639/~/viewfinder-diopter-adjustment [edit] Actually found out at KOH's Camera that I would probably need a -3.5. I found it at this link so I thought I would share to any other individual that might come across this thread. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bronica-Diopter-For-ETR-SQ-or-GS-1-New-/231490392069?fromMakeTrack=true

Thank you all very much! No, it did not come with a manual so I took the advice and visited the site. Have the manual now to ponder over. I do have a question that is probably not answered in the manual. I'm 62, near sighted with astigmatism and wear bifocal glasses. This new Bronica SQ-AI has a -1.5 diopter. I took out the screw, cleaned it up and saw what it was. I need a bit more clarity to see the shutter speed in the viewfinder. I put on a pair of my wife's reading glasses a +2.00 power and was able to see it better through the upper part of my glasses. Too cumbersome to shift my glasses up and look through the viewfinder to see that shutter speed. Do I need something like a +5 or so to make it easier? If I am looking through it now and can kind of make out the shutter speed and it's a -1.5, then would I need stronger - to make it clear or go in the opposite direction? Got a 220 back today with the camera (YEA!) and it has the dial in the back for the setting of film speed. It was a bit frustrating that I could not get it to go past 200, then I noticed in pictures of the back that the indicator is on the left side NOT the top. All the markings on this are either worn off or taken off on purpose. I took the dial off and used a Dremel and the fine small round tapered file and put in a very small groove, about 0.003" wide where the indicator should be on the left and at the top, where the adjustment for EV steps would take place. Then I put in some white latex paint stick and carefully removed the excess so I now have the 2 indicator marks. Set it for 160 along with the other back (earlier one that came with the camera with dial on top) and checked out the meter reading. Both read the same and both match up with my fairly new Gossen Multi-Pro meter. No eye cup, so that's another thing to see about, and no 67mm lens cap or filter. Need something for the end of the lens. Lens is a 150mm PS. Meter is the one with the on-off switch on the left side and Auto-Manual on the right.

<p>Well, I took your sage advice. I was also wondering about the motor drive on the SQ-AM. It would make sense if you loose the gears, circuity, or whatever, you are dead in the water. So..... I bought a Bronica SQ-Ai with 150MM PS lens (which I was looking to add later anyway) a 220 back and a metered prism that come with it. Meter works well and camera is in decent shape. With the SQ-Ai you "can" put a drive on it that was made for it and it's in my watch list if I decide to spring for it. <br> <br />One thing that was mentioned to me was that I can put 120 film in a 220 back but not vice-a-versa. There is not enough pressure for keeping the 220 film flat in a 120 holder as it had to have more clearance for the paper backing. This I got from the seller, who seemed to have used this camera for some time before selling it on ebay.</p> <p>Fuji now makes a 100 speed color film that would be interesting to try. I have my eye on a couple of Polaroid / Bronica film pack holders. I understand they will take either Polaroid or the newer Fuji peel apart film.<br> Any experience with pack films or using 120 film in a 220 holder?<br> Yes, back for 6 x 4.5 or 6x6 not 6x7. Lens coverage would indeed not be enough, especially on shorter focal length lenses. There is the GS-1 that is 6x7 and it can take that or others down to 6x4.5 or even 35mm film in a special holder. That would seem to be a defeat of the purpose of using the medium format system. I thought the whole idea was to get a larger image, not smaller. <br> Vernon</p>

<p>Looking at getting a Bronica SQ-A or SQ-Am. One I have looked at only has a 6 x 4.5 back. Is there any way one can change the back to 6x7?</p> <p>Also lenses that fit a ETRS would they be able to fit on an SQ-A?</p> <p>I guess a better inquiry would be, if you have a 6X6 back that is 220, can you use the internals of a 120 back in it's place?<br> I think I would have to go to a GS-1 to get into the 6 x 7 format.</p> <p>Is there a website that can list lenses/backs/finders compatibility between the latter Bronica cameras?</p> <p> </p>

<p>You should see the pictures that my Mom took with a Kodak Brownie 6X6. Anything that can be enlarged to 8x10 and 11x14 will do for most people. Most web images are crap compared to even the lesser known medium format images.</p>