User_4136860

<p>I believe Pentax dropped the spot metering that the prototype Spotmatic had from the production models because the general public would find it too difficult to use properly.</p>

<p>In my country two out of three weddings end up in divorce, it may be a lucrative revenue stream that photographers are missing.</p>

<p>It's true never the less Jeff, many beginners with an entry level DSLR deludes him/herself that they are a wedding photographer because they see it as an opportunity to make money and take on professional work that they don't have the background, ability or training to do, don't have a contract with their clients and aren't equipped to deal with legal consequences when it all goes wrong .<br /><br /></p>

<p>Garbage wedding photography is the new folk art, the lunatics have taken over the asylum. </p>

<p>I bought a new old stock Canon FD 85mm f1.8 lens from Ffords a few months ago that has the date code of UE 505 for the Ukishima factory and the 5th of May 1990 it is indeed brand new which makes me wonder where it's been for almost 25 years, or if Ffords have been in a time warp, the next time I phone them I'm going to ask them.</p>

<p>Ordinary PX625 A Alkaline batteries work fine in an EF because the camera has a built in voltage regulator circuit that reduces the voltage to the correct 1.35V and gives correct exposures.</p>

<p>I was a professional photo journalist for almost thirty years and always considered having my equipment professionally serviced as part of the expense of my photography, and although I have the service manuals for all my cameras the more I look at them they are so mechanically and electronically complex the more I think I would rather attempt brain surgery on one of my children than attempt top service them, I'm a camera operator not a repairer, and it's a wise man who knows his own limitations. </p>

<p>Having a Stradivarius makes you a Stradivarius owner, it doesn't make you a violinist, if anybody could do what Mccurry does by owning the same equipment he uses his work wouldn't be so remarkable.</p>

<p>The correct way to remedy the situation is to have a professional camera technician service the camera. </p>

<p>If you knew what brushes Rembrandt Van Rijn used would it help you to paint like him ?</p>

<p>Have you read and inwardly digested the instruction manual http://www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_t90/canon_t90.htm</p>

<p>I have five F1N -AE's too, two of them have the Motor Drive FN's permanently attached, I'm a retired photo - journalist and the Power Winder FN attached to to the camera depicted in the picture's lack of power rewind made the cameras fitted with it a little too slow to change films for many situations encountered by press photographers in critical situations.<br> I made my living with Canon F1N's for more than twenty years working for a press agency, and if anyone ever made a better more robust and reliable manual focus SLR I have yet to hear about it.<br> I'm pretty old now but I can still almost use my F1's in my sleep, and if anyone wants to take them from me they'll have to take them from my cold dead hands.</p> <p> </p>

<p>I suggest you also try it with another lens because somebody may have had the lens apart to try and clean it and incorrectly reassembled it destroying the collimation of the lens elements.</p>

<p>I can do better than that Jim, Ill just ignore the whole website.</p>

<p>Diddler, all you do is put the camera and the black opaque plastic film tub in the changing bag before you zip it up, put your arms into the changing bag open the camera and remove the film after pressing the rewind button pull out the film rolling it up tightly as you do then put it in the film tub. I used to be a professional and had to come back with pictures not excuses so even though I'm now retired I never go out without a small changing bag in my camera bag.</p>

<p>If you are buying new in Hong Kong and importing the camera yourself it will be considered a "Grey Import" and not carry a U.S. Warranty and will not be serviced by the official importers under their warranty with many of them even if you are prepared to pay for it because they keep a record on their computers of the serial numbers of all the equipment they import, so what may be a cheap camera on the face of it could prove to be very expensive in the long run.</p>

<p>I'm so "grumpy " Jim because it upsets me to think that there are so many people who are gear freaks and so obsessed with such trivialities. Photography is about pictures not the equipment.<br> I was a professional photographer for around thirty years and never once heard any of my fellow photographers ever say they wondered how many of their cameras were made, probably because they considered them tools to make their living with like hammers and saws to a carpenter not devotional objects to worship. </p>

<p>If you're buying second handy by the time you pay the customs and import duty it will probably be cheaper buying in the U.S. from B&H or K.E.H and you get a warranty from them so if the camera goes bust in a couple of weeks you have some comeback.</p>

<p>I haven't the slightest interest in how many F1's were made I just enjoy using my 3 new F1's, because I'm a photographer not a collector, my only interest in the cameras is using them.</p>

<p>I asked "how much do you actually use these lenses" because as a young pro I was taught by my mentor that the idea of professional photography was to build up your bank balance, not your equipment inventory, or your muscles carrying the gear about if you could avoid it.</p>

<p>I find the classic Hasselblad three lens outfit for general photography ideal 50, 80,150mm and enough weight to carry about.</p>

<p>I have four of them and I usually them loaded with different films one of them has a motor drive FN permanently attached. </p>

<p>With a changing bag I keep in my camera bag,and I always carry a black opaque film canister in it too to put the film in just in case.</p>

<p>How much do you actually use these lenses ?</p>

<p>As other members have written on this thread the best bang for you're buck is the FD 50mm f1.4, unless you habitually photograph black cats in coal mines, and the f1.2 is very little faster than the f1.4 for the great difference in cost. The 50mm f1.8 is a very good 6 element lens that can be bought these days for buttons, but is only single coated as all Canon 50mm 1.8 lenses were, the FD 1.4 is a 7 element double gauss design http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Double-Gauss_lens that's multi-coated and superb.</p> <p>http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/fdlenses/50mm.htm<br /><br /></p>