User_4136860

<p>Zinc Air batteries need to have the paper label removed from the air hole in the battery for at least half an hour before installing them in the camera to activate them.</p>

<p>It's a great idea to have your wife to carry your F1's with motor drives attached, tripods too, but since my wife has heart problems and is in her seventies I don't think in my case it's a very good idea.</p>

<p>I have two Canon motor drives FN that I use very seldom since I retired from professional work, I love the F1 I have five of them, but it's a heavy camera and adding the weight of the motor drive that takes twelve AA batteries doesn't help and if I don't expect to be shooting anything for which I think it will be absolutely necessary I leave it at home, there was a time that I uses to lug three F1's two of them with motor drives attached but I was much younger then and needed to for my job, these days I try to carry the minimum of equipment since I'm only shooting for my personal work I try to make my pictures fit the equipment I have with me. </p>

<p>The battery in the older fully mechanical Canon F1's should be 1.35V not 1.25V</p>

<p>The camera was designed to be used with 1.5 volt Alkaline batteries not rechargeable ones, I suggest you stick to AA Duracell ones and you shouldn't have any problems unless the camera is faulty.</p>

<p>The best battery and longest lasting for your AE1 P is the PX28L Lithium Battery.</p>

<p>There's one here on U.K. E bay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Canon-Original-BW-72-Round-Lens-Hood-See-listing-for-lens-fittings-/152173484158?hash=item236e3f187e:g:fukAAOSwtnpXjj44</p>

<p>They are expensive because they are rare because they were an optional extra not supplied with the lens and it's more than 25 years since they were manufactured, supply and demand.</p>

<p>I blew mine with canned air then sprayed a little electrical contact cleaner down the side then worked it for a while, it works perfectly now.</p>

<p>I use a radio flash trigger to remotely fire the flash http://www.dalephotographic.co.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/DalePhotographicOnline/_8923001764811E/188848/Phottix%20Ares%20Flash%20Trigger%20Set and a flash meter to calculate the exposure it works up to about thirty feet indoors or outdoors.</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00cYCS</p>

<p>The PX 28A is an alkaline battery and the new F1 was designed to work on a PX 28 Silver Oxide or PX 28L Lithium one.</p>

<p>The PX 28A is an alkaline battery and the new F1 was designed to work on a PX 28 Silver Oxide or PX 28L Lithium one.</p>

<p>180 mm</p>

<p>Have you locked the lens back on the camera after removing it with the lens locking knob on the left hand side of the camera that closes the lens mount aperture and blanks it off to protect the film from exposure to light when changing lenses, this would causer the shutter release to lock.</p>

<p>The original design concept of the A series cameras in an age of planned obselescance wasn't to build them to last forever and since it's more than 25 years since they ceased to be manufactured the fact that so many of them are still in working order is quite remarkable. I suggest unless you are prepared to pay to have your camera serviced by a professional repairer you buy another one that does work correctly.</p>

<p>The original design concept of the A series cameras in an age of planned obselescance wasn't to build them to last forever and since it's more than 25 years since they ceased to be manufactured the fact that so many of them are still in working order is quite remarkable. I suggest unless you are prepared to pay to have your camera serviced by a professional repairer you buy another one that does work correctly.</p>

<p>It's more than 25 years since I read The Dubliners.</p>

<p>I would after more than 25 years after the last production of all the FD cameras in particular the consumer grade A and T series I would be very careful unless you are prepared to pay more than they are worth having them serviced, there is more chance that the professional F1 and New F1 that is in apparent good condition would probably be a better buy since they were designed to have a ( ie. the Titanium shutter unit good for at least 150,000 exposures) longer serviceable life and they were better built of better materials to last longer and is more worth spending the money having serviced if they develop a fault</p>

<p>You have to bear in mind that all the FD series cameras are more than 25 years old , the majority of them have never been serviced since they were manufactured and the A and T series cameras in particular have already outlived the useful life they were originally designed to last, so if you buy them and need reliability you need to allow in the purchase price the cost of professional service. </p>

<p>Besides anything else Bronica S2A lense image circle won't cover a 6X7 negative.</p>