joseph_barbano

For the last 6-9 months or so, I've been using my D2 and D70. I'm

scheduled for a trip to Mexico and then Spain in the next few months

where I decided to bring my M stuff as the digital is nice but not

quite"it".

 

Well, I pulled out my MPs to shoot a few rolls to get back in the

groove and it was like handling an alien machine, i.e. totally

foreign. I expected it to be like riding a bike. Not so. I think

the biggest issue is relearnign the hand-eye-mind coordination in

being able to connect exposure, composition, and mechanics in a

graceful continuous movement. You don't need that with an auto

exposure, auto focus, auto everything camera--not that there's

anything wrong with that; it has it's place.

 

I have a friend who is a well known professional photographer who

used to shoot ten rolls of film before breakfast; just warming up.

Now this guy is NOT some hack who shoots thousands of exposures to

just get one picture relying strictly on statistics. In fact, he's

a member of Magnum. We agreed that shooting ten rolls before

breakfast was equivalent to a professional golfer who hits 500 balls

a day. That's what it takes to be good; maybe and if you're very

lucky and talented.

 

So I'd better figure out how to use these cameras again otherwise I

might miss that "decisive moments" on my travels.

I own both R and M. They're both great cameras for different reasons. On this forum,many disparage the R-series for some unknown reason; especially in that few own them.

Get a Domke J-2. Fraction of the cost; similar utility.

First, ignore any advice given on this forum by those owners who do not own both R and M series. This forum is so biased toward M series; I've owned both for many years and the optics and durability of the cameras and lenses is about equal. Second, don't get sucked into this nonsense that the only good R series are the "manual" R's e.g. SL, R6, and R6.2. Also not true, as I own both manual and auto R's and the autos offer more features.

 

That said, I think you will be pelased with either the R8 or R9. The R8s can be ahd for a good price used, but look for the higher serials if you go for one. The R8 and R9 are almost identical except for a couple of very minor features. The R8 will cost you about $1k, the R9 about $2K. YOu'll appreciate the viewfinder on the R8/9. It's bright een with slower lenses it seems.

 

I've taken my R8's all over the world, Africa, S. America, India, Middle East, etc. and never had a problem. I also shoot slides exclusively and critical exposure is never a factor. Good spot meter. As far a motor drives/winder, I have no experience but have read that the R8 had problems withese when they first were available.

 

Good dealers, I"d say Sam Shohan at Classic Camera. I've had good luck with Tamarkin. Never dealt with Photo Village but Pinto has a good rep.

 

Good luck.

I've owned R series for 20 years and R8's since about 1999. I've also owned M6's which I only had for about two years in 1994-1996. I could not get used to the lack of seeing the subject as it would appear in the lens, so I sold it. Last year, I bought 2 MPs. I use both now but I can't say that for me I use the MP's for people pictures and the R8's for other stuff. They're really apples and oranges. As far as quality production, I see no differnce in my work, but it really does take some effort when switching to an M series. BTW, I shoot mostly slides.

I suspect there's nothing wrong with your meter since the difference between incident and reflective modes is just a transparent dome that slides over the reflective meter to make it an incident meter.

 

The reflective reading from an 18% grey card is highly dependant on both the angle of the lighting source and the meter relative to the card as the card is not a Lambertian surface or isotrpoic scatterer. My recollection is that both the light source and the meter need to be at approximatley 45 degrees each from the surface normal, i.e. about 90 degrees between each. When the light source and the meter are near normal or when they are near grazing to the surface of the card, the readings are least accurate.

Elephant. Jaipur Summer Palace<div></div>

Handy<div></div>

What a great thread!

Bring the Oly; get a digital P&S as back-up. Don't bring film and digital on vacation; it's too complicated.

I had the Fz20 and 30. They both were mediocre and neither consistently was able to provide the image quality of the D2.

 

FWIW, I'm not an overly enthusiastic D2 owner. Frankly, I don't give a f*ck what kind of camera you or anyone else on this forum uses. I'm just providing my point of view.

Wrong forum. You need to go to the Leica Customer Forum where there's a wider cross-section of D2 users. Very few here; mostly film users or those who don't even own the D2 but will offer comments.

 

On that note, I own the D2, a Nikon DSLR systems, and various digital P&Ss. The D2 is still superior in image quality and the form factor is much like a traditional camera; perhaps not so much an M series.

 

The D2 has some issues; high ISO noise, autofocus really designed for non-action, getting adjusted to EVF, etc. Regardless, you'll fine for those of us who own them, virtually no one regrets buying it in spite if its $1500+ price. There's still very few to be had.

 

Finally, don't be misled into believing that the image quality can be equalled or exceedd by a cheaper/smaller P&S or even a low-end DSLR with cheap glass. It cannot. Just take the time and view the forums and you'll see for yourself after reading the many testimonies.

Ah Venice!<div></div>

Three generations of hands making gnocchi.<div></div>

Two sisters relaxing on a hot Summer afternoon in a Mexican village.<div></div>

People Pictures. India students at an English School outside Jaipur.<div></div>

I think I may just keep the M stuff for a while, perhaps for good. Although I shoot film (R & M) and digital (D2 & D70), I'm not sold on the digital workflow (PS workload)or ENDPRODUCT regardless of the "technical analysis" about resolution, post-processing, blah, blah,... except for P&S convenience.

 

I did receive quite a few direct e-mails about the M bodies and many were very interesting. Thanks for all of the inputs.<div></div>

Sunday morning after the storm; 14 inches. Looking down my driveway.<div></div>

I obviously know what it was worth when I bought it; I'm interested in the "current" used maket value. I think the market's a lot softer now than it was in 2004. Not sure.

ALso, I have 2 Leica M6 eveready cases as well. The cameras have ALWAYS had the half-case on to protect the paint. I bought these new as well in Dec 2004. Thanks.

In December 2004, I purchased a new M outfit sort of in celebration

of having recently sold my company. However, since purchasing it,

between my D2, R8 and D70 outfit, I've hardly used it. I have

probably put about 5 rolls of film through each camera. Anyway, I'm

thinking of (considering) selling but have no idea what the system

is worth. I went to eb*y and a few Leica used camera sellers websites

(the usual suspects)but don't really have a sense so I'm asking here.

 

Here's the list:

-Two Black Paint MPs 0.72 Serials starting with 29 and 30

respectively

-28 Elmarit

-35 ASPH Summicron

-50 Summicron

-90 Elmarit

-Two Black paint Leicavits

 

All new when purchased in Dec 2004, all boxes, etc.

 

Thanks in advance.

I think they're Voightlander straps. B&H carries them for about $40.

What camera straps are they?

I have the opportunity to buy this lens in Mint condition for

$1400. Is that a reasonable price and how does this len perform?

Thanks in advance.

Wrong nomenclature; should have been 34 CS-2. BTW, stay away from the Metz 20BC-6; height too low and causes red eye.