christopher_ward2

<p>If you mix Photo-Flo and keep it you will find a jelly/slime in it you need to filter out. best to mix as needed. Soak washed film for 30 seconds in dilute Photo-Flo then hang to dry . Chris</p>

<p>Second shot. Nice lens but the manual diaphragm can be a pain.</p><div></div>

<p>I have a later black one in Nikon mount. Sharp and fast but a real beast.</p><div></div>

<p> Just a thought ... did you trim the film leader to 4"/10cm? This will cause wind and shutter issues. Otherwise if the camera has been unused a long time winding and dry firing it can work out some kinks.</p>

<p> When I sorted thru my parent photo box very few 120/620 films had any edge marks. Some said 'Kodak' some 'safety film' but most were blank. These were snapshots from the 1940's ,50's and 60's. Hard to date an image by the film stock. Kodak Tri-X roll film came out in 1955 and is still here today. Even the vendor may only have guessed at the date.</p>

<p> The camera is just weight. You need to rethink what else will or will not live in your backpack during the trip. Some solo hikers carry almost nothing gear wise. Balance your hiking gear need against the photo gear. Backpacks over 80lbs/36Kg are tough on mind and body. When backpacking 7-10 days my camera gear runs 25-30lbs/11-14Kg ,I have at times carried only a compact fixed lens 35mm but felt naked. It is all about priorities ... more camera gear = less food/clothes/camping gear. I would plan a strenuous day trip with full pack and RB67 kit (or a bag of misc stuff about the weight of the planned kit) to get the feel of the project. Start deleting non essential/ safety gear and check out ultra-lite hiking web sights and talk to your local hiking/camping retailers ... the staff do this all the time and know all kinds of stuff. Do you need a tent/sleeping bag or will a bivouac sack work? or maybe a tarp and blanket is all you need. Stove/fuel/cook-set or granola/jerky/pita bread. It is always all about your priorities and how strong ,stubborn and determined you are. First order of business is to have fun and be safe. Chris</p>

<p>By the look of the camera ,the brass clips allow the back to be removed. If I had the money to play with I would cut some plywood to fit the back and clips then buy a 4x5 spring back on-line. You would not damage the camera or back and you would get a chance to test the camera. A 3x4 image on 4x5 film may seem odd but less chance of damage to the original stuff and less money than a custom film/holder work around.</p>

<p>The 9x12 single sided holders I had, used a spring tab that flipped up when the dark-slide was pulled. Not sure if this was standard.</p>

<p>With the lousy economy and high gas prices the last 8-10 years, I haven't shot much. Disposable income for a serious hobby is hard. I still develop B&W film and print in the darkroom. For me the crisis is the dwindling range of film/paper/chemicals. I shoot 35mm, Med format, 4x5 and 8x10 film ...when I can find the money. For over 30 years it has been "Hi I'm Chris, a photographer" but the statement has less meaning to me now. The lack of focus has a lot to do with my income to mood index. When the money and time are there, I am happy and tend to shoot a lot. The love of film and paper to express the inner you has value whatever the wiz-bang digital only crowd has to say. Hang in there and keep shooting, it's bound to get better. Chris</p>

<p> I would use the film without hesitation. If you are worried about base fog, develop in Kodak HC-110.</p>

<p>The 110 film cartridge has a notch on it to tell the camera the film speed. I do not think the Auto 110 has a film speed override. You could place a ND filter over lens or meter eye ,but this would be a pain. Collodion is Blue only sensitive ,Orca is panchromatic. A deep blue #47 (Minus Red) filter might help with the tones. Tough project if you insist on using 110 format.</p>

<p>Could be a Graflex 1A SLR with a f/4.5 lens or a #1A Speed Kodak with a f/4.5 lens. Both used #116 film 2.5"x4.25". Both use a focal plane shutter to 1/1000 second. Kodak 1909-13 ,Graflex 1909-25.<br>

Chris</p>

<p> Welcome to the tribe of shutterbugs! To start with most classes use pretty vanilla film and paper ... very forgiving and hard to get a truly bad technical result. The artistic end is all you. You may be thinking of B&W prints that are a matte surface ,fiber paper can be like that. The Konica TC is a good camera and the 50f/1.7 a fine lens ,are you using Zinc/Air 1.4v hearing aid batteries #675 to replace the 1.35v Mercury battery the camera was designed for? A 1.5v Alkaline battery will throw the meter off. The TC has a center weighted meter pattern ,so center the finder on what YOU would like to see as middle grey in the finished print then re-frame the shot.<br>

A yellow #8 filter gives average grey tones ,try a orange #15 or green #11 to give a different look. Older types of film have different grain patterns ,Kodak Tri-X 400 ,Ilford FP-4 125 & HP-5 400 developed in Kodak D-76 or Ilford ID-11 may be what you seek. The film overexposed 1/3 stop (80ISO not 100ISO ,320ISO not 400ISO) given normal development and printed at grade #3 on RC-VC paper may help. Have fun.</p>

<p>With the MD-2 you use the shutter button on the grip. Set the grip dial to S-single or C-continuous. Set the dial on the drive for your shooting speed from one frame to six per second with Ni-cad's and mirror locked up. Remember to set the film counter on the drive! If set to 36exp the drive will rip the film out of a 24exp cartridge.<br /> When you are mounting the drive to the F2 you should fire it to sync it before locking it down. Heavy beast but fun.</p>

<p>No. Do you have the battery pack mb-2 or mb-3? Can't remember if you can trigger the md-2 drive off camera.</p>

<p>Sometimes you can help a gummed up shutter by firing it without film. Just wind and fire the shutter at all speeds while watching TV or sitting around. This will work if the problem is stiff lube and dirt. This activity drives my wife nuts and I dislike sleeping on the couch ...you have been warned.</p>

<p>Last one. The bulb filament should project like this. Sorry for my low batteries.</p><div></div>

<p>From the Kalart guide.</p><div></div>

<p>Dale,<br>

What type flash case are you using? Some do not have a battery port on them.</p><div></div>

<p> Are you sure it was the film? Looks more like bad chemicals to me. Hard to find a local C41 shop with reliable processing these days.<br>

Chris</p>

<p> I used graded single weight fiber paper. Interesting but not great results. You might try ortho/litho film developed in dektol 1:7 or 1:9 for grey scale slides. This film can be worked with under red safe-light cutting and development. The emulsion is very delicate so handle with care, more expensive than paper but less than panchromatic films. Chris</p>

<p>Are you sure that the prism shutter dial pin is mated with the body shutter speed dial? Try the camera w/o the prism mounted and check the shutter speed.</p>

<p>Check the mirror box to see if a chunk of foam seal has dropped behind the mirror. Sounds like the mirror is not seating right.</p>

<p>Todd,<br>

Remember the 'Nikon Twist' to index your lenses. Set lens to f/5.6, mount lens, twist aperture wide open, check the f/# window on the meter matches your lens.<br>

Chris</p>

<p> Kodak bw400cn is color c-41 film, modified to record shades of grey. This film will be treated like any other c-41 film by Walmart. I no longer use Walmart for this reason. Ask at your local Walgreen's or other one-hour outlet if they toss the negatives or not. When you have the film processed, ask for it to be printed on the Grey Scale or Monochrome channel of the machine. I forgot to do this and the prints were brownish grey.<br>

Chris</p>