danielheller
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Everything posted by danielheller
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<p>The one thing I can advise you, before you perform all the nice things mentioned so far above, is to scan all of your material as "Linear Scans". You have to pick certain parameters in Flexcolor before scanning to achieve a "Linear Scan". You can read on the internet how to do that. Than, and only than you start your spotting, cropping, color correction, exposure...etc. This is the most accurate method of achieving a scan that is closest to reality in terms of colors at the moment you took the shot.</p>
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Your Total Cost of Shooting Film and Cost Per Shot?
danielheller replied to quidrilas_kelly's topic in Medium Format
<p>$8.50 for a 12 exposure medium format 120 film.<br> $8.00 for development (Pro lab)<br> I do not use mail and scan myself.<br> $16.50/12=$1.37/frame</p> -
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<p>Lea, why do you want to take someone else's photo and do editing on it in the first place?<br> Isn't there something you want to express that initiated from within YOU?<br> Curious to find out.</p>
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<p>Anthony, the OP asked for a camera weighing about 1Kg. (lens included). I am not sure such a thing even exists, but the Pentax 6x7 with AE prism, lens, 220 back, is a lot heavier. Pentax 67II may be a bit lighter.</p>
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<p>My gear was enhanced this year with the purchase of a Sony A7r full frame mirror-less 36 MP camera. I have a few Zeiss lenses to go with it.<br> My older gear includes a Hasselblad 503CW and a Hasselblad 903SWC, again paired with a few Zeiss lenses. I scan on a Hasselblad Flextight X5.<br> Sometime I reach for the film, other times for the digital.</p> <p>We don't know what you intend to do like others noted here, what subjects you are photographing, and what is your intended output (print size).</p> <p>I can only say the following: If you were to scan on the Flextight a 6x6 frame in color, saved in Adobe RGB 16 bit the resulting TIFF file is about 7000x7000 pixels. You would get a very very sharp print (assuming you used good lenses and all the proper photographic precautions) easily to 24"x24". If you need a larger size print sharpness becomes a bit less important IMHO, since you are viewing the image from further away!</p> <p>Now, if you used the Sony A7r which as mentioned above is a 36MP full frame camera, you end up with a TIFF image that is 7360x4912 pixels (206mb). I am confident that you will also get a very very sharp image of 21"x14" from a TIFF image of this size (assuming again that all the photographic precautions have been followed in the taking of the image).</p> <p>Nothing I wrote here is absolute, and you should conduct full research before purchasing your digital. The A7R is a pleasure to handle smaller and lighter than a Nikon, and producing awesome images.</p> <p>One thing is for sure, Sony, at this point in time rocks!</p>
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italy in b/w. The shadow of Andrea
danielheller commented on morophaenixmau's gallery image in Street
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Frosted Glass Reflections - Treblant (no manipulation)
danielheller commented on thadley's gallery image in Landscape
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<p>The Plustek had a lot of issues from what I can recall. It was forever on "back order" at B&H, and I am not sure if the technical issues were ever resolved. In the end I personally did the unthinkable. Purchased a new Flextight X5. Never looked back and enjoying the pleasures of scanning. After following the news about the Plustek 120, and reading all the posts about it, I personally would not acquire it.</p> <p>But, your post states "... I just want to scan some 120...", so if it's just "some", why not use a lab to scan those few?</p>
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<p>I am surprised no one recommended yet a Rollei. The best light meter I have worked with is the Gossen Luna Pro SBC. Of course for portraits you may be better of with a spotmeter.</p>