john_wiegerink1

<p>I prefer to do my 120 film on Hewes SS reels and my 35mm on Patersons cheater plastic reels. Just me of course. If you have stainless steel reels take a set of calipers and measure the film slot space all the way around the reel. If you don't have calipers then cut a piece of stiff cardboard exactly the width of the film slot and check your reel all the way around. I've done the bent-reel game before and it's no fun. Now I guard my Hewes reels with my life and I can load a roll of 120 in 30 seconds or less. Some folks say a SS reel is a SS reel, but we that have used Hewes know that not all reels are created equal. My advice is practice in the light with some old film and buy good reels. That was one of the best things I ever did. John W</p>

<p>If you are going to try regular glass you might not get Newton rings. It has much to do with humidity as to whether they show up or not. If they do you can try scanning with the emulsion facing the glass. This helps reduce the chance of Newtons rings, but it might not hold the negative as flat. It doesn't cost anything to try it anyway.</p>

<p>Yes, I run my LS8000 with Windows7 and Nikon Scan 4.0.3 and it works just fine. </p>

<p>Charles,<br> What size negatives were you scanning? I have only used mine for 4x5 and 8x10 negatives and it has no problems with that size. I have a Nikon LS8000 for 35mm and 120, which does fine with those sizes. I have never tried smaller than 4x5 on the M1 so I guess I should have stated that. Still, the M1 does fine by me. Alex ask what I paid for mine. Well, it was given to me by a friend and I couldn't pass it up. I'm glad I didn't.</p>

<p>Alex,<br> I have the older M1, but the mechanics should be the same. Yes, it can and is both a film and flatbed scanner. It scans flat-work/prints on top, under the cover and there is a slide-out drawer that holds the holder(s) for film. Mine does an excellent job of both. The scanner is first rate, but they have always had product support problems right from the start. If you're pretty smart at figuring out stuff yourself you'll be fine, but if you rely heavily on customer support I'd then look to Epson or Canon. </p>

<p>I apologize to Rick and everyone for my last post and will next time use a "private message" to ask a question or make a comment meant for here. Sincerely sorry! John W</p>

<p>Rick, beautiful horses and it looks like a nice lens/camera combo. What I really like is how well the Tmax 100 and ID-11 went together. Did you use it straight or diluted? Great tones, but scanning might be different to wet printing.</p>

<p>Tony, Couple of cool cats! I miss my F2as...........</p>

<p>Anthony,<br> Does it go on the front or rear of the lens. I know Sigma made some special close-up screw in types that went only with certain lenses. John W</p>

<p>If you are going to be using the camera it is now mounted on then just get a set of Nikon extension tubes or even off-brand Nikon F-mounts tubes will work.</p>

<p>James,<br> Maybe you should remain somewhat lax. Have a cup of tea and relax a little. This is the very reason I no longer visit certain photography related forums. Infighting and name calling are one thing, but a picture Amelia and Erwin??? Life's to short! John W</p>

<p>I am very much with you and would like the input as well. Of all the searching I've done it seems there are a lot of mixed results. Arista kits seem to get more "mixed" results than the Tetenal three bath kits, but there's also a lot of variation in users I'm sure. John W</p>

<p>Hewes all the way! Load like butter, but you still have to know how to "START" the film onto the reel. Starting is the most important part of loading a SS reel. It's also the main Paterson sells so many plastic "cheater" reels. 'Cause folks don't take the time with a spare junk roll of 120 in daylight to know what they're doing in the dark. It's simple with a little practice, but Hewes reels make it even simpler yet. John W</p>

<p>If you like the way a TLR works and enjoy the square format then I'd say Hasselblad. You can find a nice 500C or 500CM body and back fairly cheap and might even find one with a nice 80mm Planar. Don't be afraid to buy a chrome non "T" star coated 80mm either. I have both and either one is excellent. If you like 6X7 then a Pentax 67 might be good for you. Lenses are cheaper and just as good, but it's not as silent as other cameras for street shooting. Or go for a Mamiya C330 and have a great TLR street camera that is almost silent. I've had then all and they are all more than capable. Also, I still have my Koni-Omega Rapid 200 wit a wide and normal lens and that's darn silent also. Plus, it's lenses are really first rate and pretty darn cheap. Lot of great stuff out there, but just remember to get return privileges if you buy. John W</p>

<p>Is your shutter release lever returning to its ready position? There is a tiny spring that forces the shutter release lever to return to the ready and if that spring is weak or off its pin, the shutter release lever won't come all the way back on its own. If it can't return to the ready then it's very similar to holding the shutter release down while cocking and the shutter will not stay cocked. Take your finger and hold the release lever back while trying to cock the cocking lever. If that's not the problem then then the shutter will have to be looked at. Also, can you open and close the shutter in the "T" position? John W</p>

<p>Fred,<br> I got an answer on a different forum and your answer is awful close. When you push the snap button it locks focus between about 4' and 19'. Made for taking pics of fast moving kids etc. I'm curious to see how this little camera stacks up on the 28mm end. JW</p>

<p>Fred,<br> This is a small dual lens(28mm-48mm) full frame 35mm film camera with a switchable panorama(internal masking) mode. Sorry for not being clear on the format. JW</p>

<p>I picked one of these up cheap, but need to know a few things about it since there is no manual. On the top there is a button that says "SNAP" and I'm wondering exactly what that is for. Most everything is fairly easy to figure out. JW</p>

<p>What battery are you using? If it's a 1.5V then your readings will be off.</p>

<p>I went through this situation years ago and here is how I solved it. I didn't have a problem removing the lens/shutter assembly, but couldn't use it on my mini Speed 2 1/4 x 3 1/4 since it was rear cocking. So, I found a cheap 127mm f4.7 Ektar and just mounted the front and rear lens elements in that Supermatic. Worked like a charm! I also double checked the distance from the front lens ring to the rear lens ring while in each shutter to make sure the distance was the same. I'd not worry about the max aperture to much, but would run a roll of film and see if it matches your normal meter setting for a certain film you use. I really never had a problem and just went with what was on the shutter ring. JW</p>